Genesis 29er

GoldenMotor.com
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
OK,
So this is my first build. ALL SUGGESTIONS< COMMENTS< AND HELP APPRECIATED!!!!

I picked up a 29" from Craigslist. Paid too much but oh well. She's definitely a grazer.

Got a Balanced 80cc coming from Ozark Cruisers. The bottom half will be black and the head will be unpainted. I already have the bike disassembled.

Considering painting it. Is that worth the effort? Will the paint job last?

Am also considering a different set of handle bars as these cause me to lean forward and I think I would rather sit upright, no?

Am considering removing the gear system, shortening the chain and turn it into a coaster. Any reason to keep the gears?

Am also wondering how to keep the two break handles and also use the clutch? Can I rig the clutch up to the gear shifter and use my thumb?

What else am I missing?
 
mogollonmonster

mogollonmonster

Member
Aug 26, 2015
472
6
18
Overgaard AZ
I've pulled the derailur from my bike, and associated cables, picked a gear, and shortened the chain.

A dual pull lever will yank both cables at the same time, from one lever of course. Avoid the coaster brake, it isn't optimal. Yes, you want to be upright on a well sprung seat, possibly with a suspension post, so different bars will help. If your tall like me, you may need ape hangers...

Paint your frame, it's a bit of work, but pick a color and I'm sure you'll be happy. What I'm concerned with is fitment. Despite the fact it's a 29, it looks tight.

Duane from Dax motors says a 29 is too much to turn, for these motors, lots of rotating mass. I see his point, but weighted and balanced wheels and tires could help with that, I think.

Good luck buddy, and welcome!
 
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
I've motorized two of these models. I had no problems with fitment when I used a short intake-plenum. Here's a pic of my 2nd build. I had to use an offset-plenum to fit it since I didn't have a shorty on hand. You can view other pics of this model in my galleries. I ended up just painting the whole thing a matte-black...sprayed it. You'll notice I also stripped the garish stickers...this was the absolute FIRST thing I did when I bought them. Walmart doesn't stock these anymore, so I moved on to the GS29. It's similar to the 29er, but has dual v-brakes, and 40-spoke wheels, which makes proper rag-joint attachment an issue. The down-tube is also 2" (larger than the 29er). The GS29 also needs its chain-stays spread about 5mm to accommodate the drive-chain; the 29er shouldn't present a problem if you use the tensioner. The rear-wheels on both models stink for our application...the axles are of inferior quality. They have a tendency of loosening, and I had a couple of bearing-cup failures. I've since learned to invest in a decent rear-wheel and have had thousands of trouble-free miles. One of my 29er's down-tubes failed "catastrophically" after a couple of years' operation. The frame didn't fold on me though, and I was able to limp home on it. This occurred right above the engine's attachment-saddle. I recommend that you avoid using a one-handle brake. Redundancy increases safety: if you're unlucky enough to have a brake-handle snap on you, you're gonna want a backup. And speaking of brakes, the 29er disc-brake SUCKED IMHO. Real garbage...on BOTH frames I owned. I suspect that's why the GS29 went back to dual Vs. The cranks on all models are pretty crappy too. On both my 29ers, the front sprockets disconnected from the cranks when placed under extreme load...I had to RUN-start the bikes while I waited for replacement-parts. Also, the handlebars on the 29ers would continually loosen. I ended up using Blue LocTite on their screws. That said, I still love these bikes; they're dirt-cheap and suited my needs. I'm 6'3" @ 280lbs BTW.

 
Tyler6357

Tyler6357

Well-Known Member
Mar 15, 2012
1,293
294
83
Santa Barbara, CA
Why get rid of perfectly good gears? It's helpful to peddle to help the bike up steep hills or just to get it fast enough to get it in the power band if you have a tuned pipe, if not, you will need to peddle even more. Why did you want to get rid of them?
 
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
Kioshk said:
I've motorized two of these models. I had no problems with fitment when I used a short intake-plenum. Here's a pic of my 2nd build. I had to use an offset-plenum to fit it since I didn't have a shorty on hand. You can view other pics of this model in my galleries. I ended up just painting the whole thing a matte-black...sprayed it. You'll notice I also stripped the garish stickers...this was the absolute FIRST thing I did when I bought them. Walmart doesn't stock these anymore, so I moved on to the GS29. It's similar to the 29er, but has dual v-brakes, and 40-spoke wheels, which makes proper rag-joint attachment an issue. The down-tube is also 2" (larger than the 29er). The GS29 also needs its chain-stays spread about 5mm to accommodate the drive-chain; the 29er shouldn't present a problem if you use the tensioner. The rear-wheels on both models stink for our application...the axles are of inferior quality. They have a tendency of loosening, and I had a couple of bearing-cup failures. I've since learned to invest in a decent rear-wheel and have had thousands of trouble-free miles. One of my 29er's down-tubes failed "catastrophically" after a couple of years' operation. The frame didn't fold on me though, and I was able to limp home on it. This occurred right above the engine's attachment-saddle. I recommend that you avoid using a one-handle brake. Redundancy increases safety: if you're unlucky enough to have a brake-handle snap on you, you're gonna want a backup. And speaking of brakes, the 29er disc-brake SUCKED IMHO. Real garbage...on BOTH frames I owned. I suspect that's why the GS29 went back to dual Vs. The cranks on all models are pretty crappy too. On both my 29ers, the front sprockets disconnected from the cranks when placed under extreme load...I had to RUN-start the bikes while I waited for replacement-parts. Also, the handlebars on the 29ers would continually loosen. I ended up using Blue LocTite on their screws. That said, I still love these bikes; they're dirt-cheap and suited my needs. I'm 6'3" @ 280lbs BTW.

Click to expand...
When us say avoid a one handle break...I am unclear. My thought was to use the handle on the right for the rear break and the handle on the left for the front break. But then I would need a handle for the clutch. How did you cross this bridge?
 
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
Tyler6357 said:
Why get rid of perfectly good gears? It's helpful to peddle to help the bike up steep hills or just to get it fast enough to get it in the power band if you have a tuned pipe, if not, you will need to peddle even more. Why did you want to get rid of them?
Click to expand...
I just figured that simpler was better. I see your point so I will keep them. Thanks.

But I still need to figure out how to handle the clutch since I will have a break handle on each side....
 
leo

leo

Member
Jul 20, 2015
250
0
16
southern wv
sks velo 65 fenders work pretty well, and they're actually affordable too...
(around $20)

just make sure they are firmly attached.
 
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
I use these ($55).

http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7059.html

BikeWagon has an earlier cheaper model for $40...one set left.

http://www.bikewagon.com/planet-bike-cascadia-2010-fenders-alloy-65mm-black

They're superb. I've ridden in plenty of driving-rain without issue; they really keep the water down. They also prevent front-wheel splash getting into the magneto-chamber. I lost far too many coils to rain-water than I'd like to admit. Not a one was lost since I started using these fenders.

Listen to Leo, and make sure that the front-fender is SUPER secure; you don't want it disconnecting and getting pulled under the wheel. RISK OF DEATH!!!

These fenders' mounting hardware is EXCELLENT. If you mount it properly, you'll be fine.

As for the clutch-handle: there's plenty of room for both the brake and clutch on the left handle. I have the clutch on the upper-outboard, and the brake on the lower-inboard. Since you'll want the clutch in when your braking, their operation flows well. I posted a pic to one of Leo's threads this week of my bike; you can see what I'm talking about there.
 
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
BTW: Here's that picture. It reminds me to mention that you'll need to cut out a notch in the rear-fender to accommodate the drive-chain.

 
Tyler6357

Tyler6357

Well-Known Member
Mar 15, 2012
1,293
294
83
Santa Barbara, CA
Last edited:
Kioshk

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
Oh geez...two more things to note: these cheapo bikes have crappy pedals too...you'll notice that in the previous pic the pedal's disintegrating. The post's holding up fine, so I'm not worried, but this would be garbage if it was actually used as a pedal-bike.
 
Tyler6357

Tyler6357

Well-Known Member
Mar 15, 2012
1,293
294
83
Santa Barbara, CA
Also, many people will tell you that it's perfectly fine to attach your rear sprocket to the spokes with the kit supplied rag joint set up but I am not one of them. I strongly recommend that you spend the extra money for a rear sprocket adapter. Just make sure you get one that fits the diameter of your rear wheel hub. There are many different hub sizes for hubs with gears and you will have to measure yours to know what size you are looking for. Hubs with gears (speed hubs) are almost always smaller than cruser hubs and cruser sprocket adapters will be too big to fit on your wheel. However, several places sell sprocket adapters in different sizes to fit speed hubs. I'm just not a fan of putting torque on your spokes. If you are interested in this, I can post some links for you to check out. If you just go with the standard rag joint set up, check it often to make sure the nuts on the bolts haven't vibrated loose, but don't over tighten them either or you could strip the threads.. good luck!
 
Last edited:
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
Tyler6357 said:
Also, many people will tell you that it's perfectly fine to attach your rear sprocket to the spokes with the kit supplied rag joint set up but I am not one of them. I strongly recommend that you spend the extra money for a rear sprocket adapter. Just make sure you get one that fits the diameter of your rear wheel hub. There are many different hub sizes for hubs with gears and you will have to measure yours to know what size you are looking for. Hubs with gears (speed hubs) are almost always smaller than cruser hubs and cruser sprocket adapters will be too big to fit on your wheel. However, several places sell sprocket adapters in different sizes to fit speed hubs. I'm just not a fan of putting torque on your spokes. If you are interested in this, I can post some links for you to check out. If you just go with the standard rag joint set up, check it often to make sure the nuts on the bolts haven't vibrated loose, but don't over tighten them either or you could strip the threads.. good luck!
Click to expand...
Apparently this bike has been motorized before. There is already a rag joint and sprocket on it. Yes I would love to see some links if you don't mind!
 
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
Tyler6357 said:
I use one of these dual break levers, just put this on the right side and the clutch on the left ---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-All...504798?hash=item4af685349e:g:MtMAAOSwLVZV5mvd
Click to expand...
This is enticing. My problem is that the gear changer for this bike is built into the brake handle. So left brake change front gear and right changes rear. Not sure how to navigate this issue. I guess I can put the clutch on the left side as well as the brake/gear changer. But not sure how I can use the break and clutch at the same time?
 
D

Dead66

Member
May 11, 2016
81
0
6
Pawleys Island
Another problem.... Took the bike apart to clean and prolly paint. The crank bearings are shot! They seems to have been held in place with a race. But the races are complete toast.

Anyone know how to get new bearings to fit?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom