my first case reed project

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Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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Yeah, those are teh best way to go because they lock into the groove on the carb then once clampped in place they stay put very well without leaking... You can use sections of heater hose for experimenting but some of them don't stand up to fuel and oil as well as the rubber intake boots do.
 

mrfubs

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Jun 13, 2013
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dude are you kidding me those are all really good prices yours to me looks perfect, the only thing i dont like is the fact that its only being sealed by 2 bolts other than that its perfect.
Even though a few come with a half as$ block it looks like for the most part one or part of one will have to be made up, and actually i believe it would be hard at all only as long as you have access to a tig'er which i do not. another option would be to create your own mold out of wax then plaster then molten alloy that could be quite involved but has always interest me for something to consist my day of giving me something to do. I think it would be fun i know the basics back in metal arts in high school we crafted rings out of wax then incased them into plaster and made a mold from that.

**** if you make a good mold and you like how everything fits and works you could sell your own product!
 

Davezilla

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Yeah, these reeds are really that inexpensive, I got mine for $16.99 with the plastic reed box. I was just looking at something thinking how I'm going to make my adapter setup and noticed these reeds will bolt directly to the Tillotson carbs as the bolt spacing is the same. To simply add the reed to the inlet on the jug would still require an adapter because the bolt spacing is different there, but if I'm making my own adapter it's definitely going to be case inducted.

That would be awesome if one of us could mold and cast the adapter to fit into that channel right behind the jug, That would speed up this part of the process considerably...
 

Davezilla

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With as much aluminum that just ends up a pile of shavings each time I make a part on my lathe, I probably got enough to melt down and make that adapter... I'm always sweeping away piles of shavings etc... that's how they melt down the easiest too...
 

Theon

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Jan 20, 2014
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As long as the '85 reed is less than about 40mm wide it will fit for case induction.
Not a huge gamble at $20.
But the 60 should be just big enough, and easily fits between the 40mm inlet stud spacing of a decent barrel for piston port.
The standard mounting block with the '60 reed looks usable with my plan to fill the case between the case bolts to flush with JB and then thread through to the case for a sure grab.
And then just hog out an opening between the two filled sections which the reed cage can recess into.
A plate with 40+ mm spacing that clamps reed and block to the cases and takes thread for the carb. Would only need to be 5 or 6mm thick to give a ridged clamp.
Casting a block would be cool, but maybe unnecessary?
The RSE block would also be ideal really, not a cheap alternative, but looks nice.
I paid around $60 for the RSE reed kit , and am considering another, but Making something can't be too hard, and would like to try something a little bigger than the DLE 50 reed that came with my RSE kit.
 
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Davezilla

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That's one of the options I was looking at by filling the whole void with JB Weld then milling it flat and carving out the inlet path... If I use JB to fill areas like this I'll throw in some chopped fiberglass strands to make a Kitty hair bondo type solution, but with the jb weld. I've repaired a radiator that way where the top hose nipple cracked and I knew JB by it's self probably wouldn't have held until I had time to take the radiator out to solder it and fix it right... Anyway, a week went by and this held just fine, but I took the radiator off to do the repair right and couldn't get this stuff off so I painted it and put it back in my 4x4 blazer where it lived that way for 3 years of very rough use until I sold the truck. So JB + chopped fiberglass strands makes for some bulletproof composite parts.
For mounting, my plan is to drill thru the cases and countersink the holes from the inside and use countersunk screws from the inside and nuts on the outside, the screws will stay put by using locktite, of course, if I use the JB weld and fiberglass trick, the JB will keep the screws from backing out or falling out during assembly or disassembly. Also need to remember to use a sheet of teflon between the case halves if made from the jb weld and fiberglass so we don't bond the cases together and have to cut the split line after the cure.

I was able to successfully make me a set of bolt on stuffing plates like I mentioned before, the bolts on the outside of the case are barely noticeable but still looks cool, and I'll still glue them into place with JB weld just to be sure they can't move as there's only .010" clearance between the plates and the flywheels now, thrust washers are also mandatory for this case now.
 

Theon

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10 thou aint a lot.
I belive it's good to have a little more clearance than that, for expansion of crank due to heat and also to help lube the bearings.
mind you one of my motors is probably around 20 thou.
 

Davezilla

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I was thinking the same thing, with heat expansion there will be even less space in there, I'll have to make another set because once I cut the center hole out and made the cutouts to clear the casting ribs they won't go back in the lathe, but I got plenty enough metal to make a few more sets.
 

Davezilla

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Yeah... Much easier.... Glad I thought of that... lol

Thanks man... I was gonna make the new plates later tonight after my wife goes to bed.. that's when I do most my work.
It's like 4:30am over here right now so I'm done playing for the night... Been playin musical head gaskets for the last half hour trying to get my .75mm to 1mm squish clearance on the new engine.
 

mrfubs

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Jun 13, 2013
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michigan
Thats a pretty good idea you have to raise the cranking pressure but the only thing im scratching my head about is how will the mains be lubercated if that gap is real close?

Actually if you drill the 2 oil holes like i did it should be just fine.
 
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mrfubs

Member
Jun 13, 2013
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michigan
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Heres my clutch cable bracket i fabbed up for the **** of it today, i am pleased with it and does its job just fine! not bad for a piece of scrap lying around.
 
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Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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very Nice... I did one similar but used a screen door roller, either way, much much smoother than running it thru that cable guide under the carb... Your setup is just as good as a roller if not better because you re routed the cable in a way that the roller isn't even needed... Really good job and I'm impressed.
 

mrfubs

Member
Jun 13, 2013
306
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18
michigan
thankyou dave! i had no choice but to create my own mount because i could no longer use the factory one sense my reed block is in the way. i added the spikes because i was bored haha what ever it adds character! i sanded it from 225 to 400 to 600 then buff. im happy, i also made my own dowel pin, its the smaller hole and it is a nail actually and worked very well. i even made my own nut you can see on the end of the adjuster on my bracket. its ghetto but i used a round piece of alloy i had i drilled it tapped it and made it into a square to fit a 3/8 wrench to lock my adjuster from self adjusting haha
 
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