My Current Problem

That's progress! I'd still bet that once you get that screw out your problem will be revealed and it will be an easy fix.

The kits usually give you a spark plug tool that will also remove the nut that holds the drive sprocket on. I found that it's not the best tool to tighten the drive sprocket because it is awkward to use. I sheered the woodruff key after my first few rides because that nut wasn't tight enough, even though I gave it all I could with that spark plug tool. So I went out and got a real socket to use instead, I was able to get the nut to turn quite a bit more with a real socket much to my surprise. Also, some blue loctite on the threads will help keep that sprocket and nut locked in place.....
Good luck with the repair/exchange......
 
That's progress! I'd still bet that once you get that screw out your problem will be revealed and it will be an easy fix.

The kits usually give you a spark plug tool that will also remove the nut that holds the drive sprocket on. I found that it's not the best tool to tighten the drive sprocket because it is awkward to use. I sheered the woodruff key after my first few rides because that nut wasn't tight enough, even though I gave it all I could with that spark plug tool. So I went out and got a real socket to use instead, I was able to get the nut to turn quite a bit more with a real socket much to my surprise. Also, some blue loctite on the threads will help keep that sprocket and nut locked in place.....
Good luck with the repair/exchange......

Hopefully it will be a repair and not an exchange but at least now I have that option.

I am still unsure of the size of the woodruff key that I need. Are they the same size in all motors or am I going to have to bring the broken one to ace to find the correct size.
 
Hopefully it will be a repair and not an exchange but at least now I have that option.

I am still unsure of the size of the woodruff key that I need. Are they the same size in all motors or am I going to have to bring the broken one to ace to find the correct size.

Woodruff or "sheer" keys come in many (shapes and) sizes. The one in your clutch is a half moon type, I am not sure of the original parts metric measurements and my local hardware stores didn't seem to have metric keys, but I took an original key to the store to compare... I found a half moon 3/32" X 3/8" key that works, buy a few... LOL
 
I've been buying from ming for years now. The main thing to remember is to be clear and polite with any problems. He WILL work with you.
Sending you a new engine even after you stripped a screw shows his good intentions. I know it's a hassle sending it back and waiting, but you can't ask any better from a vendor than free replacement!
The non rotating shaft problem may not be the only thing wrong with that engine...sometimes the errors all add up in one turd. We call these "lemons"
Start fresh with the new bullet and learn from what you have done so far. Be very careful with the soft stock hardware and don't over-tighten!
A hand impact tool is a VERY good investment for working on these engines as it's the best way to deal with phillips head cheese-hardened screws.
 
I've been buying from ming for years now. The main thing to remember is to be clear and polite with any problems. He WILL work with you.
Sending you a new engine even after you stripped a screw shows his good intentions. I know it's a hassle sending it back and waiting, but you can't ask any better from a vendor than free replacement!
The non rotating shaft problem may not be the only thing wrong with that engine...sometimes the errors all add up in one turd. We call these "lemons"
Start fresh with the new bullet and learn from what you have done so far. Be very careful with the soft stock hardware and don't over-tighten!
A hand impact tool is a VERY good investment for working on these engines as it's the best way to deal with phillips head cheese-hardened screws.

He has not guaranteed me a replacement because he is still unsure that the engine was sold by him, even though I told him the date of purchase and everything.

I am going to try to repair the engine myself, including replacing the stripped screw, and checking the woodruff keys. If that still doesn't fix it I am going to send it back.

I will never buy from the seller again due to the way he responded to my questions. I was very clear with the problem, even recorded another video for him specifically, and all he kept saying was that I would have to send the entire kit back. I was finally able to convince him that I should only have to return the engine. Then he accused me of trying to return an engine that he did not sell. I was completely amazed that he would do that after being able to see that I ordered one from him less than a month ago. I am still waiting to receive back an address to send the motor to.

So far, the communication from the seller has been sub par.
 
Sorry to hear you had problems. I've had nothing but great kits and service from ming and rose.
Remember the search box on top of the page....anything you need to know to fix your engine is there. Just type any keyword and you will get all the answers you need!
Hope you get your bike going soon!
 
Here are pics of my motor with the gear off. I believe the woodruff key is there, intact. There is a pic of it. I am going to get a screw extractor set so I can continue work on the left side of the motor.
 

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How about some pics of the clutch?

No need for an extractor.

If you drill into the damaged bolt head you can remove the head which will allow you to pull the cover off. Take care to center the bit.
Once the cover is off use vice grips to remove the bolt.
 
I got an extractor set from Harbor Freight. Took it home and removed the bolt that was stripped on the clutch arm cover.

I removed the cover to find the sprocket very loose. I removed the sprocket and there is no woodruff key there.

There are pics of the progress below.

I am afraid that I will not be able to get a woodruff key to work in the shaft. Do you guys/gals think wone will still work given the state of the shaft in the last pic?
 

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I have gotten a woodruff key from a local hardware store. They are going to help me fit it in tomorrow morning when I ride the bike to the shop. Hopefully this is the only problem with the motor, and I won't have to fix something else within the week.

I want to thank everyone for helping me come up with solutions to my problem.

It also appears that I will not have to return the motor, so I should be up and running by tomorrow at noon .dance1
 
That key way is toast. Good luck keeping a key in it. You'd be better off cutting a new one and using a larger woodruf key. How is the keyway in the sprocket?

Tom
 
I agree. There's no way that will hold.
Your best cheap bet is to do like 2door said and cut a new sharp keyway. If you are careful with a dremel and a small cutting disc, you can easily turn the shaft to a clear part and cut your own keyway. Test fit the key a lot as you go until it fits tight and has no wobble. You may also need a new small gear if the keyway in it is messed up too. (probably is)
 
That key way is toast. Good luck keeping a key in it. You'd be better off cutting a new one and using a larger woodruf key. How is the keyway in the sprocket?

Tom

The keyway in the sprocket is in better shape than the one on the shaft.

I agree. There's no way that will hold.
Your best cheap bet is to do like 2door said and cut a new sharp keyway. If you are careful with a dremel and a small cutting disc, you can easily turn the shaft to a clear part and cut your own keyway. Test fit the key a lot as you go until it fits tight and has no wobble. You may also need a new small gear if the keyway in it is messed up too. (probably is)

I have a small dremel tool, but it may be underpowered for the job that it would need to do.

Right now I have a woodruff key that is probably larger than the original one that broke. I have to make modifications to it tomorrow to even allow me to fit it in the shaft and the sprocket. At the moment it sits to high to get the sprocket onto the shaft.

I may try to cut a new keyway if the one that is there does not work with the modified key. I do still have the option to return the motor, so that is good if I can't fix it myself.
 
So far in building my motorbike project, I have not meet anyone who was not willing to help me out in some way. That ended today.

I rode up to the hardware store today and the gentlemen inside were happy to help me. They grinded down a woodruff key that was too large for the slot. It was still too large so on the way home, I stopped at a local scooter shop that also sells the motorized bikes. The had the woodruff keys for the motors, I tried it in the slot and it was a perfect fit and would have worked great even with the damaged shaft. The only problem was that they wanted $8 for just the key! I decided that I was somewhat okay with paying that high amount for such a small part and went in to pay for it. That is when the owner had the nerve to tell me that I would have to buy $30 worth of stuff to pay with a debit card, because he claims that he gets charged $3 on credit card purchases.

That is bogus, no cc company would charge close to 50% on ANY purchase. I was so mad that i got the key out of the motor and left. I will never be going back to Daytona Hawk Scooters, and I advise you to do the same unless you plan on spending a substantial amount of money or carry cash on you at all times.

I am going to try to find another business that will have the woodruff keys for the small motors and that will take a debit card. Until then, my bike still can not be ridden under the power of the motor.

Alex
 
Hardware stores generally have a drawer full of woodruff keys in various sizes....

All the ones that I have found are too big for the application.

I bought a stip of metal and am going to make my own using a dremel tool and a grinder later this evening.
 
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