On a side note, I see a lot of people on mobillity scooters riding them on the street. Our sidewalks are so rough they would rather brave the cager traffic here than try the sidewalks. It's insane. I always think they need a little more power.
my own mobility scooter
- Thread starter deacon
- Start date
Yes we did. I love those alaska shows for the same reason that I loved these little builds. They have to re purpose everything because it is so hard to get parts. We became masters at how to make things work, as they say on project runway. Yes I am a multi faceted man lol.
The only thing ever wrong with the weedwacker was I never could control the vibration. The electric motors give me about the same torque and speed but are much much more reliable.
I know this is an electric thread but let me say this. Harbor freight 97cc engine. Centrifugal go cart clutch. bike chain attached to drive cog of a three wheel trike. Lose the pedals and it will go like crazy im sure.
I promised my wife no more gas engines but there is where I should be building one.
The only thing ever wrong with the weedwacker was I never could control the vibration. The electric motors give me about the same torque and speed but are much much more reliable.
I know this is an electric thread but let me say this. Harbor freight 97cc engine. Centrifugal go cart clutch. bike chain attached to drive cog of a three wheel trike. Lose the pedals and it will go like crazy im sure.
I promised my wife no more gas engines but there is where I should be building one.
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Back to the electric thread. I'm still having back pain but I managed to put in a few hours in the shop yesterday. I'm paying for it today, but I did get the new rear put together for my trike/scooter. I'm not sure how they will play out but here is what I have.
First of all it begins with a wooden platform. I made mine out of a piece of 1"X10" pine. Since that stuff splits, I bolted a 1/2" piece of plywood to it. Then on the edges where the wheels will attach I bolted an angle iron. So the axle won't cause a split in the wooden platform.
Then I measured 3" from the rear of the wooden platform and drew both a horizontal line and then one vertically line in the dead center of the piece of wood.
I wanted to use one continuous axle. but I didn't have a crown bolt long enough, so I went for two crown bolts, one for each wheel.
I found some pieces of fence stretcher bars which I use for general purpose metal. The fence stretcher is used in chain link fences for just what it sounds like. They are about a half in wide and three, four, and six feet long. I buy the short ones and cut them off as needed. I also reuse them over and over so usually I have some short ones laying around. In this case I found sex of them between two and four inches. I used them to make straps for attaching the axles after I determined they were straight. For that I used the horizontal line i had drawn previously. I used two straps to wedge each axle against the wood and one to wedge it against the metal frame on the edge. I'm pretty sure they are secure.
Moving along to the wheels. Another benefit of working with thrift store junk is that I have lots of old wheels laying about. So I began with a front wheel. Once the short axle is removed, if you are lucky and careful, there will be a bearing set in a cage on each end. Then you need to drill the threads out of (4) 3/8" axle bolt. They make great bearing holders and spacers. The drilled 3/8" axle bolt slides on first against the metal from of the platform. Then the caged bearings. Then grease and the wheel. on the outside of the wheel you need the bearing cage, another drilled axle bolt finally two 3/8" bolts to make a lock nut for the axle assembly.
Repeat this for the second side and you have a trike rear end.
I haven't gotten to the final step yet but I can outline it for you.
To Attach It To the Bike.
First you drill (3) 3/8" holes along the vertical line.
Then you cut three pieces of the angle iron the width of the platform.
Then you simply use some more scraps to make a plate to secure each of the reinforcement pieces through the holes you drill in the platform and also to the bottom of the bike frame. You want to wedge them tight.
That bolted assembly should look like this. The head of the bolt then a piece of metal over the frame of the bike. .. then the lower frame of the bike... then the wooden platform,.. then the full metal reinforcing L frame piece... then two bolts to lock it.
Now I haven't tested the assembly yet, since I haven't finished it, but I have tested each component separately and it all seems to work.
"PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK..." Trust me pay attention to weight distribution.
First of all it begins with a wooden platform. I made mine out of a piece of 1"X10" pine. Since that stuff splits, I bolted a 1/2" piece of plywood to it. Then on the edges where the wheels will attach I bolted an angle iron. So the axle won't cause a split in the wooden platform.
Then I measured 3" from the rear of the wooden platform and drew both a horizontal line and then one vertically line in the dead center of the piece of wood.
I wanted to use one continuous axle. but I didn't have a crown bolt long enough, so I went for two crown bolts, one for each wheel.
I found some pieces of fence stretcher bars which I use for general purpose metal. The fence stretcher is used in chain link fences for just what it sounds like. They are about a half in wide and three, four, and six feet long. I buy the short ones and cut them off as needed. I also reuse them over and over so usually I have some short ones laying around. In this case I found sex of them between two and four inches. I used them to make straps for attaching the axles after I determined they were straight. For that I used the horizontal line i had drawn previously. I used two straps to wedge each axle against the wood and one to wedge it against the metal frame on the edge. I'm pretty sure they are secure.
Moving along to the wheels. Another benefit of working with thrift store junk is that I have lots of old wheels laying about. So I began with a front wheel. Once the short axle is removed, if you are lucky and careful, there will be a bearing set in a cage on each end. Then you need to drill the threads out of (4) 3/8" axle bolt. They make great bearing holders and spacers. The drilled 3/8" axle bolt slides on first against the metal from of the platform. Then the caged bearings. Then grease and the wheel. on the outside of the wheel you need the bearing cage, another drilled axle bolt finally two 3/8" bolts to make a lock nut for the axle assembly.
Repeat this for the second side and you have a trike rear end.
I haven't gotten to the final step yet but I can outline it for you.
To Attach It To the Bike.
First you drill (3) 3/8" holes along the vertical line.
Then you cut three pieces of the angle iron the width of the platform.
Then you simply use some more scraps to make a plate to secure each of the reinforcement pieces through the holes you drill in the platform and also to the bottom of the bike frame. You want to wedge them tight.
That bolted assembly should look like this. The head of the bolt then a piece of metal over the frame of the bike. .. then the lower frame of the bike... then the wooden platform,.. then the full metal reinforcing L frame piece... then two bolts to lock it.
Now I haven't tested the assembly yet, since I haven't finished it, but I have tested each component separately and it all seems to work.
"PLEASE BE CAREFUL IF YOU FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AND YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK..." Trust me pay attention to weight distribution.
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After all the BS getting everything ready to go I found
1. The tire on the hub motor front wheel is flat.
2. The hub motor when mounted unlike all the other (2) hub motors I have used runs backwards. I would just wire it backwards since it has brushes but sometime the hardware will works its way loose if it is run backwards.
So I have to pull it off and turn it around so that the wires run off the wrong side of the fork. Easier said than done. Each of the two fork extensions was custom fitted so they have to be removed from the hub then switched. Not all that bad you say. Well the problem is the wiring had to be re-soldered and the wrapping I'm not sure can stand another squeeze through the lug nub. It will probably be easier to adapt the extension shackles but I'm not sure.
Just another day in my shop.
1. The tire on the hub motor front wheel is flat.
2. The hub motor when mounted unlike all the other (2) hub motors I have used runs backwards. I would just wire it backwards since it has brushes but sometime the hardware will works its way loose if it is run backwards.
So I have to pull it off and turn it around so that the wires run off the wrong side of the fork. Easier said than done. Each of the two fork extensions was custom fitted so they have to be removed from the hub then switched. Not all that bad you say. Well the problem is the wiring had to be re-soldered and the wrapping I'm not sure can stand another squeeze through the lug nub. It will probably be easier to adapt the extension shackles but I'm not sure.
Just another day in my shop.
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Just switch the wires around you can run hub motors either way. I have a sensor less controller that runs brushless motors backwards so you have to switch the wheel around. I know where your coming from having been there myself.
I had a scooter motor designed to run counter clockwise, but I either had to switch the wires or change it to a different side of the wheel. I chose to switch the wires. Three miles from home the drive wheel parted company with the motor because the lockdown nut was set to tighten as the motor ran counter clockwise and running it backward caused it to loosen. Pushing the trike the three miles dragging the motor since I didn't have any tools taught me a health respect for running motors the directions they are supposed to go. Didn't hurt the motor just the attachments.
I took another look at the Extensions and I think I will just have to drill a couple of new holes for the small locking bolts so it won't be too bad after all. Just have to be able to do it.
I took another look at the Extensions and I think I will just have to drill a couple of new holes for the small locking bolts so it won't be too bad after all. Just have to be able to do it.
I hear what your saying but a hub motor can run forward or reverse. Unless it is geared. Then it will just freewheel. Of course, you still have a flat tire to worry about. You ever feel like just throwing it off a bridge? LOL
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with my luck it would drag me over the said with it lol. I think my wife has hired someone to do that one night. The truth is this bike has had more lives than the proverbial black cat. Only because it was a gift from my wife for my 68 birthday. So rather than bury it in the landfill, I keep resurrecting it,
I took a shot at the hub motor with the flat tire. I struggled to get it off the bike and then struggled to get the tire off the wheel. It must have been on there ten years and sitting in a barn.
I tried to pump the tire up on the bike before I did all that, but I wouldn't pump up. So I took the tire off. I found the tube looked pretty good but I replaced it and the spoke tape. Then I put another tube in it and it wouldn't take air. I was angry so I put air into the old tube and it held. I have no idea what was going on. I but the original tube in the wheel and pumped it up. It seems to be holding. I'll have to cheek it later. If it goes down Im going put some fix a flat in it.
Still don't know why it was flat and wouldn't take air unless something was wrong with the valve. Some days are like that just going around in circles and ending up back where you started.
I tried to pump the tire up on the bike before I did all that, but I wouldn't pump up. So I took the tire off. I found the tube looked pretty good but I replaced it and the spoke tape. Then I put another tube in it and it wouldn't take air. I was angry so I put air into the old tube and it held. I have no idea what was going on. I but the original tube in the wheel and pumped it up. It seems to be holding. I'll have to cheek it later. If it goes down Im going put some fix a flat in it.
Still don't know why it was flat and wouldn't take air unless something was wrong with the valve. Some days are like that just going around in circles and ending up back where you started.
LOL deacon the KKK part kind of puts me off!When I finish with this I thought I might go into business what do you think of my logo
Kkevyleven007 has an idea. take a wheelchair and attach the front of a bike to it. You can mount all the hardware for your motors under the seat. Those wheelchair wheels are made for hundreds of miles of use so I'm sure could take your motors with no problem. Just take off the small front wheels and steer with your front wheel. If anyone can make this unholy combination work it's you Deacon.
Gee what a great idea. Take a grinder to the seat post, all the hardware would still be in place Just add a bench seat over the rear wheels and the batteries and you have it. Have to give that some thought before I send it to the trash heap. After this last fall my really crazy experiments are going to slow a bit I fear. They tell me this back pain may be permanent. At least to some extent.
Nonetheless I continue to work on the killer trike. There are lesson to be learned for kreepy kracker kustoms. Today I had to replace the head set's lower bearing. In my box of bike junk there was not a single headset bearing with all the roller in place. When I junk bikes I have not been saving them. Managed to rig something up for now. Those bearing are pretty expensive for what they are. I can but a whole junk shop bike for the cost of one. And I get wheels, chain, sprocket drive, tires, tubes, and bearing for it all. I also would get a new frame for the Killer bike. Last one cost me $12.50
Nonetheless I continue to work on the killer trike. There are lesson to be learned for kreepy kracker kustoms. Today I had to replace the head set's lower bearing. In my box of bike junk there was not a single headset bearing with all the roller in place. When I junk bikes I have not been saving them. Managed to rig something up for now. Those bearing are pretty expensive for what they are. I can but a whole junk shop bike for the cost of one. And I get wheels, chain, sprocket drive, tires, tubes, and bearing for it all. I also would get a new frame for the Killer bike. Last one cost me $12.50
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Today I broke down and got my wife to drive me to Northern Tool. I did that because my son in law was going to test the rebuilt three wheel scooter but the rear wheels were wonkie. I decided to bite the bullet and go get the cart wheels and make a solid axle for them.
Now that I have them and have installed them, I'm glad I did it. They are much more stable and that it what I need, I have to fix a brake pad but when I do the scooter will be complete. I can reuse the wheel when I build the super scooter later.
Now that I have them and have installed them, I'm glad I did it. They are much more stable and that it what I need, I have to fix a brake pad but when I do the scooter will be complete. I can reuse the wheel when I build the super scooter later.
The scooter now has two throttles one on each side of the handlebars. That being the case when I went to brake yesterday during my driveway test, it reved when breaking. That will never do, I thought. So today I removed the break lever from the handlebar and put it on a piece of pipe then I used some hose clamps to attach it to the top of the frame. I think that should be doable. Unless I forget where it is.
yeah but I can't fit it on the little bike. I did give it some thought though. I might still rethink it after I find out how this works. If I survive running in front of the school bus. lol