Not if we're talking about the standard kit peanut tank. The threaded studs are welded to the tank. They can't be unscrewed.
Tom
bad bad vibrations
- Thread starter fredric3144
- Start date
Tom
Phantom Bikes are all four stroke engines and I don't see any rubber mounts in any of their photos.
Can you provide a picture of a rubber mount on a Phantom Bike?
Tom
I do not understand. Threaded rods? I was referring to the studs and nuts that bolt the exhaust to the engine. They need extra support from a second mount to hold the pipe against the engines vibration. The pipe whipping around can cause the exhaust to keep getting loose and eventually will strip or break the studs if left holding the pipe alone. The second mount keeps the pipe from moving so much. Simply replacing the studs with bolts does nothing to address the CAUSE of the issue. Add a second mount to the pipe.
A little confusing. There was a question regarding mounting the fuel tank then the subject of the muffler came up.
To the OP. The exhaust pipe/muffler attaches to the engine with threaded studs and nuts. Yes, those studs can be replaced with bolts, preferably Allen head capscrews. They are 6mm X 1. thread and most any hardware store should have them. The length varies with the thickness of the exhaust flange and gasket but something like a 20 to 25mm should get you close.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Tom
Thanks for clearing up the confusion. I was referring to the two threaded rods that were in the exhaust manifold and they just had nuts on them to secure the exhaust pipe on. When I took the exhaust pipe off the threaded rods came out.
rubber motor mounts not only focus the vibrations on the mounts, they contain the vibes in the motor, allowing it to resonate even more and potentially causing damage to the motor. It's a big no-no. If you need to stuff the mounts because they're too big, use something solid like a metal shim of some kind.
These motors, especially the 66cc, vibrate like crazy, the 50cc much less. There are remedies that will actually fix the issue, not completely as the balance will never be perfect at all RPM's on a single stroke, but enough to drastically reduce and even stop vibrations at a target RPM. If you want to reduce vibrations drastically, you need to lighten the piston. It's the easiest way other than what was already mentioned and can be done quickly. Try clamping your muffler to your frame or some other solid mounting technique (I've seen those weird metal strips with lots of holes in it being used, I imagine they pull the muffler toward the frame a bit to create the tension). Rubber mounting the gas tank as well. If you still find the vibrations unacceptable, you may have to delve into the motor.
Vibration reduction in order of difficulty:
Muffler mounting to the frame (around the middle of the fat part of the muffler)
Rubber mount gas tank (this will also prevent it slipping around the frame as has happened to me many times. no matter how tight I got the brace)
Make sure the mounts are flush with the frame (no gaps on the top or bottom) and tighten it up.
Pull the cylinder head and jug off. Take the piston wrist clips out, and push the pin out. Where the pin came out lines up with the transfer ports in the cylinder. You can safely drill a couple small holes beside this, it does make a big difference.
Drill out the hole in the wrist pin to 7.5mm instead of its stock 6mm hole (if you can, its REALLY hard metal, I couldnt do it even with a drill press)
**Extreme measures**
Pull the crank case apart (you will need a manual impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer)) If you remove all the screws and the case still wont come apart, the clutch assembly is holding it together. That can come out with the help of a hammer.
Replace bearings with good ones. Clutch AND crank bearings are both 6202 bearings. SKF is a good brand, idk what else is.
Balance the crank (there's alot of confusing tutorials. IF you delve this far, I did summarize one for newbies).
These motors, especially the 66cc, vibrate like crazy, the 50cc much less. There are remedies that will actually fix the issue, not completely as the balance will never be perfect at all RPM's on a single stroke, but enough to drastically reduce and even stop vibrations at a target RPM. If you want to reduce vibrations drastically, you need to lighten the piston. It's the easiest way other than what was already mentioned and can be done quickly. Try clamping your muffler to your frame or some other solid mounting technique (I've seen those weird metal strips with lots of holes in it being used, I imagine they pull the muffler toward the frame a bit to create the tension). Rubber mounting the gas tank as well. If you still find the vibrations unacceptable, you may have to delve into the motor.
Vibration reduction in order of difficulty:
Muffler mounting to the frame (around the middle of the fat part of the muffler)
Rubber mount gas tank (this will also prevent it slipping around the frame as has happened to me many times. no matter how tight I got the brace)
Make sure the mounts are flush with the frame (no gaps on the top or bottom) and tighten it up.
Pull the cylinder head and jug off. Take the piston wrist clips out, and push the pin out. Where the pin came out lines up with the transfer ports in the cylinder. You can safely drill a couple small holes beside this, it does make a big difference.
Drill out the hole in the wrist pin to 7.5mm instead of its stock 6mm hole (if you can, its REALLY hard metal, I couldnt do it even with a drill press)
**Extreme measures**
Pull the crank case apart (you will need a manual impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer)) If you remove all the screws and the case still wont come apart, the clutch assembly is holding it together. That can come out with the help of a hammer.
Replace bearings with good ones. Clutch AND crank bearings are both 6202 bearings. SKF is a good brand, idk what else is.
Balance the crank (there's alot of confusing tutorials. IF you delve this far, I did summarize one for newbies).