Gary Fisher Marlin
- Thread starter Ptenwal
- Start date
Yes there are plenty. A tapered shaft or a splined shaft are two much more robust alternatives.
You'll see tapered shafts on a lot of scooters. On those the key is there is mostly optional. It's the friction of the metal compressed on metal that takes the load... if you try to rely on the key it will just destroy itself in short order. The problem is that you usually need a puller to take it back off.
Very nice looking bike, btw.
MSR Fuel Tank
Built up a new fuel tank for Gary...MSR fuel bottle, a few brass fittings, tube clamp fittings, bottle cage, gas threading tape,a couple of nuts & bolts, JB weld, drill, file, 4 hours, and about 40 bucks later, I'm out flying down the road.
Built up a new fuel tank for Gary...MSR fuel bottle, a few brass fittings, tube clamp fittings, bottle cage, gas threading tape,a couple of nuts & bolts, JB weld, drill, file, 4 hours, and about 40 bucks later, I'm out flying down the road.
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Handle bars & MSR tank.
New handlebars...I want this bike to look like a 2011 board tracker / rat rod chopper...Still trying to work out the rear disc break problem. There might be to many clearance issues to work out, but still hoping for a solution.
Cheers.
New handlebars...I want this bike to look like a 2011 board tracker / rat rod chopper...Still trying to work out the rear disc break problem. There might be to many clearance issues to work out, but still hoping for a solution.
Cheers.
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Just got this replacement saddle for the one that was swiped about 5 months ago...4 bucks for a San Marco Ponza at REI, they're the best sometimes.
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New Rockshox Tora suspension fork to match the white saddle...700 miles and still running smooth.
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New intake to resolve the plastic shim issues with the cns carburetor. The plastic shim inside of the carb became a major issue resulting in air leaks and loose fit, causing an overall "lack of performance." The new intake seems to work very well. However it's a tight fit around the clutch arm and underneath the carb. Looking forward to the rain letting up so I can get the carb dialed in.
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The rigid fork was a Surly 1X1 with disc mounts. The suspension fork that I just threw on is an entry level Rockshox Tora with 100 mm of travel with a locking option to eliminate travel.
I plan on getting rid of my hideous tear drop gas tank and install a rear rack flat gas tank. That Gary bike look sweet!
You bike is sort of similar looking to mine, but your frame is bigger. Mine had disk brakes f/r originally, but the frame also has lugs welded on for rear V-Brakes. I gave up on the idea of a rear disk pretty fast, because 1. V Brakes work great and 2. a rear disk would hide the beautiful top hat and sprocket.
I'm also not wild about the stock gas tank, but your new one isn't cutting it for me any better lol. I made something like that for my first bike with a dual bottle cage and msr bottles.
I just ordered a 1/2 gl spun aluminum tank that I'm going to try to mount on my rear rack.
New Spun Aluminum Gas Tank 1/2 Gallon | eBay
This is what I got so far.
I'm also not wild about the stock gas tank, but your new one isn't cutting it for me any better lol. I made something like that for my first bike with a dual bottle cage and msr bottles.
I just ordered a 1/2 gl spun aluminum tank that I'm going to try to mount on my rear rack.
New Spun Aluminum Gas Tank 1/2 Gallon | eBay
This is what I got so far.
How'd you like running the dual MSR bottles? I have trouble with mine wanting to work its way out at 30+ miles and hour...Running dual bottles in the rear looks nice. Did your bottle cage hold them in place? Constantly refueling can be a pain.
I've made 3 bikes using the dual cage, msr bottle set up, and I haven't had any failures. I think it works reasonably well, and looks Ok. A down side is, the seat can't be as low as some might like. Here's a thread showing how I made it.
http://motorbicycling.com/f41/custom-fuel-tank-made-camp-fuel-27428.html
http://motorbicycling.com/f41/custom-fuel-tank-made-camp-fuel-27428.html
I just finished putting on a new rear view mirror and created a new bottom cap / re stricter plate for my exhaust. I worked out an appropriate number of smaller holes to create a better sound, and create a "straight pipe look" without getting it too loud. It seems to breath better and may possibly have an increase in torque and a small top speed gain. A new bottle cage, and some Velcro strips solved the escaping fuel tank problem. Still haven't topped 37.1, but I think "Gary" could easy break 40 on the right day with a brave enough rider. Anyone have any suggestions on which throttle assembly & exhaust I should upgrade to...?
Thanks for the link to the dual MSR bottle assemble...I am still thinking about running dual tanks off the rear. However, I do like the look of the tank on the top tube look.
Lastly, 've given up on the rear disc break. I think it could be done with the surly troll frame-set, correct top hat sprocket adapter offset, sprocket, rear wheel, rotor & spacing...to much effort, to little gain.
Cheers.
Thanks for the link to the dual MSR bottle assemble...I am still thinking about running dual tanks off the rear. However, I do like the look of the tank on the top tube look.
Lastly, 've given up on the rear disc break. I think it could be done with the surly troll frame-set, correct top hat sprocket adapter offset, sprocket, rear wheel, rotor & spacing...to much effort, to little gain.
Cheers.
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Recently, I've been thinking about swapping out the suspension fork and returning this bike to a rigid. Been toying with the possibility of turning this into a 96'er or 69'er. Essentially running a 26" rear and 29" front. Haven't hear or seen anyone else running this setup.
Also, I've yet to figure out the rear disc break...Really a bummer as a larger rotor won't have clearance from the chain stays. The caliper also has clearance issues from the drive sprocket. Maybe it just wasn't meant to be.
Also, I've yet to figure out the rear disc break...Really a bummer as a larger rotor won't have clearance from the chain stays. The caliper also has clearance issues from the drive sprocket. Maybe it just wasn't meant to be.
You can use the rear disc brake by getting a shift kit. Or a top hat something, but I've never looked into that.
If you use your bike a lot, I would consider the shift kit.
If you use your bike a lot, I would consider the shift kit.