Possible lighting solution

C

CruisinOCMD

New Member
I found this while searching the web

Small Alternator Mini Generator 15-100W - eBay (item 110645642785 end time Mar-08-11 06:48:03 PST)

Small Alternator, Mini Generator (YAF-54)

with the power output the site says it has along with the use of a battery it should power a 12v lighting system easily and with the dimensions the site supplied it measures to be smaller then a 10 3/4 oz can of Cambells soup. I'm thinking of buying one and mounting a bike chain sprocket on it and use it as a chain tensioner behind my seat tube to directly power a battery and lighting system.

I'll update as things come together, anyones input one this would be very appreciated.
 
with this generator you will need a voltage regulator added to this, connected directly to a light as your speed changes the light would go dim when slowing down, or speeding up you could burn out the light if you send to much voltave to the light...
 
Yeah i was figuring to use a battery so i would put a regulator between the generator and the battery something around 13 or 14 volts to maintain a good charge on the battery because the site says at higher RPM this thing puts out 18 or more volts. If this works well i might even add some turn signals
 
joabthebugman said:
You can just buy a full light kit with the tire activated dynamo for the same amount
Click to expand...

True, but i'd rather not put that much extra wear on my tire and most of those set ups are really too flimsy for my tastes and provide constantly changing light brightness which annoys me.

Besides its more fun to build something cool and experiment with something that may work better than some cheap kit anyone can pick up off the net.
 
I have a fiend that thinks he can adapt it to charge a battery and I'm gonna put a rubber grommet over the drive wheel to minimize tire wear

My electrical knowledge severely limits my ability to experiment with it
 
joabthebugman said:
I have a fiend that thinks he can adapt it to charge a battery and I'm gonna put a rubber grommet over the drive wheel to minimize tire wear

My electrical knowledge severely limits my ability to experiment with it
Click to expand...


If the generator puts out more than 12v it should charge the battery just fine, cuz if you think of it like a car battery where an alternator puts out around 14 volts to keep the battery at full charge. anything less than that the battery will slowly die when an electrical draw is put on it because there isn't enough charge going into the battery to compensate.
 
joabthebugman said:
I have a fiend that thinks he can adapt it to charge a battery and I'm gonna put a rubber grommet over the drive wheel to minimize tire wear

My electrical knowledge severely limits my ability to experiment with it
Click to expand...

I seem to remember seeing this set-up before. The build used a small tire from an RC. car instead of a grommet. It worked well from what I saw. I'm going to experiment with this as well.
 
My YAK-54 draws power from the intermediate shaft on my Staton Tri Hybrid gearbox, via 2 tiny pulleys and a skinny belt. The shaft turns at 1100-1600 r/m ,and the Yak54 at about twice that. I use a $3 Radio Shack bridge circuit for full wave rectification, and a ~$20 regulator meant for a (very) small wind turbine, to power something when required, and charge a battery when not. All in a small HF "lunch" box. I also have a tiny motorcycle battery that I charge for the seconds/minutes IM not turning my gearbox. I need that 2B able to downshift my auto shifting Nuvinci hub while stopping, with the YAK54 not turning. 60+ watts available constantly for over 2 years - no problems. This is the way 2 go FU want the big lumens and don't want 2 Mickey Mouse with friction drives, underpowered hub gens, etc.
Finding fit for purpose, "balanced", right sized components and hardware was a scavenger hunt (like 4 tiny pulleys and belts), but I'll be happy 2 send links 2 anyone who wants to build a "real" electrical system.
 
bigoilbob said:
My YAK-54 draws power from the intermediate shaft on my Staton Tri Hybrid gearbox, via 2 tiny pulleys and a skinny belt. The shaft turns at 1100-1600 r/m ,and the Yak54 at about twice that. I use a $3 Radio Shack bridge circuit for full wave rectification, and a ~$20 regulator meant for a (very) small wind turbine, to power something when required, and charge a battery when not. All in a small HF "lunch" box. I also have a tiny motorcycle battery that I charge for the seconds/minutes IM not turning my gearbox. I need that 2B able to downshift my auto shifting Nuvinci hub while stopping, with the YAK54 not turning. 60+ watts available constantly for over 2 years - no problems. This is the way 2 go FU want the big lumens and don't want 2 Mickey Mouse with friction drives, underpowered hub gens, etc.
Finding fit for purpose, "balanced", right sized components and hardware was a scavenger hunt (like 4 tiny pulleys and belts), but I'll be happy 2 send links 2 anyone who wants to build a "real" electrical system.
Click to expand...

I've been looking at that YAF-54 for a while now. I assume that you have the 1/2" diameter mid-drive shaft on your Staton Tri-hybrid gearbox to mount the pulley.

$36.50 is reasonable for an alternator that has worked for 2 years.

Any chance of posting pictures of your setup?

I'll send a PM for the links.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
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