Lonesome Rack'ee
- Thread starter Jemma Hawtrey
- Start date
Hi,
I dont tend to pedal with the 32cc although with the 25cc its pretty much required the extra torque of the 32cc lets you dispense with that.
The dropped handlebar position is ok apart from the long rides. I have fitted up a plastic coated metal storage canister approx where a frame mount engine would fit which carries tools and extra fuel (when I can get hold of another small half wine bottle or two)
Stability is good and the bike is quick - I have set up a muffler exhaust so its quieter and with the recent modifications its not as restrictive as it was before.
Jemma xx
I dont tend to pedal with the 32cc although with the 25cc its pretty much required the extra torque of the 32cc lets you dispense with that.
The dropped handlebar position is ok apart from the long rides. I have fitted up a plastic coated metal storage canister approx where a frame mount engine would fit which carries tools and extra fuel (when I can get hold of another small half wine bottle or two)
Stability is good and the bike is quick - I have set up a muffler exhaust so its quieter and with the recent modifications its not as restrictive as it was before.
Jemma xx
In answer to some questions...
LPA is very rarely needed on this bike - cepting the steepest hills
The belt is fairly easy to get off if you dont have alot of crap on the back axle like me..
reliability is bomb proof..
Jemma xx
LPA is very rarely needed on this bike - cepting the steepest hills
The belt is fairly easy to get off if you dont have alot of crap on the back axle like me..
reliability is bomb proof..
Jemma xx
A suggestion if you think you might start installing "frame mounting" type racks as a part time hobby business.
One of my early customers is also now frame-mounting GEBE kits, so he and I are cutting the steel blanks 20 at a time, enough for 10 bikes, pre-drilling that top centered hole the engine mount attaches to.
This would be the same advise for Staton or any other frame-mounting possibilities.
And I mentioned how we are now sandwiching a rubber gasket in this thread:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=2099
If you think you are going to build more for your family and friends, start making steel drilling jigs of the 2 holes above the axle slot where they attach.
In other words, if you get a Wally World bike, or a Schwinn, or a Sun, etc, when you get those bottom holes lined up perfectly, make 3 copies, 2 for that bike and one to keep for future use when another identical bike shows up on your porch.
Basically, you save quite a bit of time if you repeat success.
Between us, we have now built up an "archive" of 6 different bottom hole alignments, and it makes it SO MUCH EASIER if you have those jigs available, for the next time you see the same bike.
(I finished one antique Raleigh bike where the gap between the holes exceeded the width of my steel blanks, so I had to buy wider 3 foot piece of steel, durnit. But at least I have a jig if it ever shows up again...never )
I also had a carpenter take one of Denis' perfectly centered wheels and make me 3 curved 8 inch wooden jigs, to slip in the space between the spoke ring and the wheel, so as I'm aligning the notches, I keep those wooden spacers in the gap to ensure even better ring centering.
I rode Jacks California Stretch Cruiser the other day, the one he claims tops out at 52mph, and instead of the GEBE supplied front strap, he bought a heavy gauge aluminum strip at the tractor supply, and I'm thinking about making that a permanent modification too.
One of my early customers is also now frame-mounting GEBE kits, so he and I are cutting the steel blanks 20 at a time, enough for 10 bikes, pre-drilling that top centered hole the engine mount attaches to.
This would be the same advise for Staton or any other frame-mounting possibilities.
And I mentioned how we are now sandwiching a rubber gasket in this thread:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=2099
If you think you are going to build more for your family and friends, start making steel drilling jigs of the 2 holes above the axle slot where they attach.
In other words, if you get a Wally World bike, or a Schwinn, or a Sun, etc, when you get those bottom holes lined up perfectly, make 3 copies, 2 for that bike and one to keep for future use when another identical bike shows up on your porch.
Basically, you save quite a bit of time if you repeat success.
Between us, we have now built up an "archive" of 6 different bottom hole alignments, and it makes it SO MUCH EASIER if you have those jigs available, for the next time you see the same bike.
(I finished one antique Raleigh bike where the gap between the holes exceeded the width of my steel blanks, so I had to buy wider 3 foot piece of steel, durnit. But at least I have a jig if it ever shows up again...never )
I also had a carpenter take one of Denis' perfectly centered wheels and make me 3 curved 8 inch wooden jigs, to slip in the space between the spoke ring and the wheel, so as I'm aligning the notches, I keep those wooden spacers in the gap to ensure even better ring centering.
I rode Jacks California Stretch Cruiser the other day, the one he claims tops out at 52mph, and instead of the GEBE supplied front strap, he bought a heavy gauge aluminum strip at the tractor supply, and I'm thinking about making that a permanent modification too.
Attachments
GEBE exhaust mod..
Hi all,
Just finished fiddling and fighting with my bike to get a new rear tire inner tube installed... A job that will get simpler methinks the more times I do it.
It was nice to get some help from a next door neighbour - although I think he was more doing it to flirt and satisfy his curiousity about the bike that be useful
- still it was nice to talk to him.
I have also fitted up a new exhaust as detailed in the pics below - this is for a GEBE engine and instructions to make are as follows...
remove stock silencer from Tanaka engine and reverse so fumes blow out to the LHS.
Obtain 2 .140 exhaust elbows for model aero engine exhuasts (the largest they do)
cut the angle off one of these and obtaining a short length of copper piping (maybe an inch to two inches) of the same bore as the exhaust itself make up a joint between the two. You will need a slightly shorter piece for insertion into the angled end with that pointed towards the back of the bike
Attach the straight end to the tanaka exhaust stub - under the top strap with two cable ties to attach.
Take two lengths of 5/32 and two lengths of 1/4 brass piping and tape securely at both ends. (I've used masking tape)
Place a large cable tie inside a small size hose clamp and put this round the 4 pipes - do not tighten fully as yet
making sure that you have attached the tape *very* securely push one end into the angled end brass section - you are aiming for an interferance fit at this point - you may need more or less tape.. then use more of the tape around the joint (again tightly taped) to minimise loss - you dont want the hot exhaust blowing onto the belt.
Using the large cable tie secure the hose clamp to the the GEBE mount as tightly as is possible and then tighten the screw on the hose clamp till the exhaust is held securely.
Parts:
2 x .140/.160 model aircraft engine exhaust angles (heat resist rubber)
2 x small cable ties
1 x large cable tie
2 x 1/4 brass pipe
2 x 5/32 brass pipe
1 x small screw hose clamp
1 x brass pipe (suitable size to be slightly larger than Tanaka exhaust stub)
Masking or heat resistant tape
Jemma xx
Hi all,
Just finished fiddling and fighting with my bike to get a new rear tire inner tube installed... A job that will get simpler methinks the more times I do it.
It was nice to get some help from a next door neighbour - although I think he was more doing it to flirt and satisfy his curiousity about the bike that be useful
- still it was nice to talk to him.I have also fitted up a new exhaust as detailed in the pics below - this is for a GEBE engine and instructions to make are as follows...
remove stock silencer from Tanaka engine and reverse so fumes blow out to the LHS.
Obtain 2 .140 exhaust elbows for model aero engine exhuasts (the largest they do)
cut the angle off one of these and obtaining a short length of copper piping (maybe an inch to two inches) of the same bore as the exhaust itself make up a joint between the two. You will need a slightly shorter piece for insertion into the angled end with that pointed towards the back of the bike
Attach the straight end to the tanaka exhaust stub - under the top strap with two cable ties to attach.
Take two lengths of 5/32 and two lengths of 1/4 brass piping and tape securely at both ends. (I've used masking tape)
Place a large cable tie inside a small size hose clamp and put this round the 4 pipes - do not tighten fully as yet
making sure that you have attached the tape *very* securely push one end into the angled end brass section - you are aiming for an interferance fit at this point - you may need more or less tape.. then use more of the tape around the joint (again tightly taped) to minimise loss - you dont want the hot exhaust blowing onto the belt.
Using the large cable tie secure the hose clamp to the the GEBE mount as tightly as is possible and then tighten the screw on the hose clamp till the exhaust is held securely.
Parts:
2 x .140/.160 model aircraft engine exhaust angles (heat resist rubber)
2 x small cable ties
1 x large cable tie
2 x 1/4 brass pipe
2 x 5/32 brass pipe
1 x small screw hose clamp
1 x brass pipe (suitable size to be slightly larger than Tanaka exhaust stub)
Masking or heat resistant tape
Jemma xx
Attachments
Re: Modification question
Hello Ms Jemma,
Thanks for the pictures. I have been pondering about this addition.
Also, I had heard that this can cut down on speed. Have you noticed a difference in your Saturday testings?
Timcycle
P.S. Be careful with the copper. They are stealing it left and right here in the U.S.
Blog: Golden Eagle Bike Engine Motor For Bicycle
Blog Kit Build and Experience from June 2007
Golden Eagle Bike Engine ~ Subaru Robin 35cc 4 Stroke
Current miles : 2,664 ~ Parked due to broken spokes
*
Hello Ms Jemma,
Thanks for the pictures. I have been pondering about this addition.
Also, I had heard that this can cut down on speed. Have you noticed a difference in your Saturday testings?
Timcycle
P.S. Be careful with the copper. They are stealing it left and right here in the U.S.
Blog: Golden Eagle Bike Engine Motor For Bicycle
Blog Kit Build and Experience from June 2007
Golden Eagle Bike Engine ~ Subaru Robin 35cc 4 Stroke
Current miles : 2,664 ~ Parked due to broken spokes
*
Re: Modification question
Its a little down on top speed - or rather it takes longer to get there - but its not by much and its very hot here for the UK (26 centigrade) and humid which never helps her. I think I will keep this mod because it quietens down the bike and makes it sound much more refined than the screaming banshee wasp it used to be.
They are cutting copper out of live electric lines and phones lines in the UK - but they wont get far with the bike exhaust - its not copper - tis brass pipe the same you'd use for water pipes and the like.
Im looking for sponsorship for Sasha's Run btw... (see thread)
Jemma xx
Hi,
Its a little down on top speed - or rather it takes longer to get there - but its not by much and its very hot here for the UK (26 centigrade) and humid which never helps her. I think I will keep this mod because it quietens down the bike and makes it sound much more refined than the screaming banshee wasp it used to be.
They are cutting copper out of live electric lines and phones lines in the UK - but they wont get far with the bike exhaust - its not copper - tis brass pipe the same you'd use for water pipes and the like.
Im looking for sponsorship for Sasha's Run btw... (see thread)
Jemma xx
Ditched that and have finally gotten my tuned pipe fitted up.
31mph uphill! - much more responsive and for some strange reason its also quieter. It doesnt seem to have much effect on fuel consumption but then I can roll along at 1/2 throttle at 30mph when I would have been WOT before!
Thats the good side - the bad side is I managed to break a spoke lol - this setup needs more babying than the stock exhaust did - it has so much more power.
Got the pipe welded and fitted up by a professional shop.. who charged me £40 for about £90 work, and spent a fair amount of the time staring at the bike.
Oddly although the bike is much stronger through all the range of speeds it doesnt seem to be much faster at top end. I cant say that I mind this considering it was already fast enough. I cant recommend a tuned pipe enough - but remember do not ride the bike like you did before, something will break *sigh*
Jemma xx
31mph uphill! - much more responsive and for some strange reason its also quieter. It doesnt seem to have much effect on fuel consumption but then I can roll along at 1/2 throttle at 30mph when I would have been WOT before!
Thats the good side - the bad side is I managed to break a spoke lol - this setup needs more babying than the stock exhaust did - it has so much more power.
Got the pipe welded and fitted up by a professional shop.. who charged me £40 for about £90 work, and spent a fair amount of the time staring at the bike.
Oddly although the bike is much stronger through all the range of speeds it doesnt seem to be much faster at top end. I cant say that I mind this considering it was already fast enough. I cant recommend a tuned pipe enough - but remember do not ride the bike like you did before, something will break *sigh*
Jemma xx
hi jemma,
the tuned pipe you added is that the tanaka one , and if so has it made your bike any quieter, but i want to some some photos asap as it looks like a real beast....
the tuned pipe you added is that the tanaka one , and if so has it made your bike any quieter, but i want to some some photos asap as it looks like a real beast....
Hi Vegas,
Its the Tanaka kart pipe - I think the top end problem is that the thing is tuned for something that has 10inch tyres not 26 and so unless its got a long stretch to roll up the revs it wont top out.
When I am not popping solpadol painkillers I'll get some better pictures done. I ache all over... and the shop who did the repairs - they missed the shifter cable which is almost shredded and the brake cable as well... what was worse the back wheel bolts (I checked on the off-chance) were only finger tight!! moral of that story is check peoples work *before* you trust your life to it.. I have a fist sized bruise on the back of my thigh and my back/neck and pretty much everything connected to them hurts. Last pic is what remained of the original brake lever which ended up saving me from probably broken bones.
Speed into a headwind has improved from 27-28 WOT to 30-31 3/4s throttle. The engine is much more willing and it sounds like a baby motorcycle - like one of the high revving 70's bikes. Im getting about 28-30 miles to the litre at the moment.
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Jemma, glad you're not hurt worse. Master Builder to means if I don't check it and crash It's MY fault. I rode a Suzuki GSXR down a ramp backwards one day after changing the front tire and did not remember to pump the front brakes. That won me a cast from the knee down for 6 Loong weeks. Don't even trust yourself. Check it, then check it again.
Ouch - I have never ridden a motorbike yet... I tried once and the switchover between hand-shift and foot clutch to vise-versa had me off the thing (grotty little 125 commuter that'd seen better decades) about 5 times in about as many yards...
I assume you pump the brake lever to get pressure back into the hydraulics?
I have checked the machine from stem to stern - this is what I found so far.
Damage to - handlebar, brake and shifter selector cables, scraped front fender. Slight damage to fuel filler cap.
The nuts on the back wheel were loose enough to be tightened by hand, the pivot nut on the springer had worked loose again (metal glues sorted that out). The Handlebars were a couple of mms to one side because of the strike on the ground and the adjuster on the headstock was actually loose so the headstock (that comes up from the steerer and clamps the handlebars) was almost flapping about... the latter especially was something I hadnt even thought about.. If I can find a convertor for the coaster brake to make it into a drum I want to fit one.
Its making me think about this US ride in a whole new way - theoretically I'd have to carry at least one spare of most controls and pretty much everything but the frame (working on the basis if I hit something - or something hits me - hard enough to trash the frame then there is a fair chance the only place I'd be going is the nearest ER).
I emailed staton since I saw they do pre-built trikes re them sponsoring via a donation of one... I think the response managed 11 words. Charming individual. But then thats life I guess. I dont think I would be recommending him if thats his attitude.
Other than that its lots of aches and large amounts of codeine, which is gonna get me into all sorts of trouble with shish but I need to be able to walk lol
Jemma xx
I assume you pump the brake lever to get pressure back into the hydraulics?
I have checked the machine from stem to stern - this is what I found so far.
Damage to - handlebar, brake and shifter selector cables, scraped front fender. Slight damage to fuel filler cap.
The nuts on the back wheel were loose enough to be tightened by hand, the pivot nut on the springer had worked loose again (metal glues sorted that out). The Handlebars were a couple of mms to one side because of the strike on the ground and the adjuster on the headstock was actually loose so the headstock (that comes up from the steerer and clamps the handlebars) was almost flapping about... the latter especially was something I hadnt even thought about.. If I can find a convertor for the coaster brake to make it into a drum I want to fit one.
Its making me think about this US ride in a whole new way - theoretically I'd have to carry at least one spare of most controls and pretty much everything but the frame (working on the basis if I hit something - or something hits me - hard enough to trash the frame then there is a fair chance the only place I'd be going is the nearest ER).
I emailed staton since I saw they do pre-built trikes re them sponsoring via a donation of one... I think the response managed 11 words. Charming individual. But then thats life I guess. I dont think I would be recommending him if thats his attitude.
Other than that its lots of aches and large amounts of codeine, which is gonna get me into all sorts of trouble with shish but I need to be able to walk lol
Jemma xx
The word donation. A funny almost magic word. It's funny another way also! When you want to donate to THEM your their best amigo! But when YOU need the help? There are some wonderful people left in the world. As far as the U.S. ride, A new bike @ Wal-Mart 69.00, a motor w/all the goodies about 200.00 AND motorized bike members all over the country. Don't sweat the small stuff. If someone needed my help, I would already be on the way.
Its not so much the "im not interested" ... its the, I cant manage more than a sentence and I cant even be bothered to sign my name... that sorta annoyed me. Not only is it rude, its unprofessional, and in this sort of business its professionalism that makes or breaks a company. People will forgive you honest disappointment or having to backorder something - they wont forgive you rudeness and excuses. Although I suspect there are other spurious reasons behind it as well.The word donation. A funny almost magic word. It's funny another way also! When you want to donate to THEM your their best amigo! But when YOU need the help? There are some wonderful people left in the world. As far as the U.S. ride, A new bike @ Wal-Mart 69.00, a motor w/all the goodies about 200.00 AND motorized bike members all over the country. Don't sweat the small stuff. If someone needed my help, I would already be on the way.
Its pretty much academic anyway - if needs be we'll just mention the people who made it obvious they didnt want to help on national TV - should go down well, just need the name of that media contact someone put on one of the threads. I wanted friends involved because the more minds applied to a problem the more you see of the problem and less you will be surprised..
As of the moment I am going to take some happy pills and try and sleep. I have been keeping off the codiene until today, but as I can barely move without it - its a case of needs must.
talk laters
Jemma xx
Hi Jemma
Just curious as to weather or not you have experienced the belt slip clicking on your GEBE drive if not is it because you are peddaling a lot instead of using the motor on the other forum there seems to be a lot of people getting short belt life .
interested to hear your comments
Roy in Seattle
Just curious as to weather or not you have experienced the belt slip clicking on your GEBE drive if not is it because you are peddaling a lot instead of using the motor on the other forum there seems to be a lot of people getting short belt life .
interested to hear your comments
Roy in Seattle
Hi Roy,Hi Jemma
Just curious as to weather or not you have experienced the belt slip clicking on your GEBE drive if not is it because you are peddaling a lot instead of using the motor on the other forum there seems to be a lot of people getting short belt life .
interested to hear your comments
Roy in Seattle
I havent had a problem with the bike at all - the only problem I have with the belt generally is when I forget to put the tensioner down - and it soon tells you..
I have done over 600 miles on the original belt and it doesnt look particularly worn - it certainly hasnt broken. I get up to 34-35mph on this machine on a tanaka 32cc and pipe.
I am one of these people who are generally mechanically sensitive - if I hear a noise I dont like, then I back off or try and adjust RPMs so the sound is gotten rid of. I DONT ride away from a standstill without either pedalling or pushing away. I dont throttle the engine and I try and run smoothly. All those things will improve belt life.
The primary thing with a belt/sheave arrangement is this. MAKE SURE that the sheave is centred on the wheel and that the spokes are augmented at their crossing points on both sides with cable ties... the tensioner should not bob about like a lemming on speed - it should move by less than a centimeter or so and do so smoothly.
hope that helped
Jemma xx
Thanks Jemma
I usually am mechanically sensitive so am curious about the noise I see you mentioned zipties on both sides of the wheel I just had them on the drive ring spokes are you putting them on all or just the same opposite side ones I think also i need to remember this is a motor assisted bike not a small motor bike
Thanks
Roy
I usually am mechanically sensitive so am curious about the noise I see you mentioned zipties on both sides of the wheel I just had them on the drive ring spokes are you putting them on all or just the same opposite side ones I think also i need to remember this is a motor assisted bike not a small motor bike
Thanks
Roy
Ziptie both sides - if you only zip one then you are setting up even more assymetric stresses than were there before. The problem with the cyclemotor generally is that everything is running at stresses higher than planned for - modern cycles have a good percentage built into their engineering but even so any help that can be given to the parts is always good.
Jemma xx