OK you guys I have new information on how to deal with your clutch problem I have photos coming and I will post them with instructions on how too
4g 2010 Delmar Fatboy
- Thread starter sphilsaw1
- Start date
OK so here it is if you are having troubles with you clutch engaging to early you can grind out some of the clutch shoe here is an example But only one side is done you will need to do both sides this is only done half way to show you where to do the grinding here is the Picture
You can see the right side is done and the left side is unfinished do the same to both sides and on all three clutch shoes this will lighten the shoes making the engage later this is the only fix I know of remember this the more you take out this higher the RPMs will have to be to engage the clutch here is a tip use a scale to make each shoe weight the same good luck and please let me how this works for you guys I really want to know
Cheers
Terry
You can see the right side is done and the left side is unfinished do the same to both sides and on all three clutch shoes this will lighten the shoes making the engage later this is the only fix I know of remember this the more you take out this higher the RPMs will have to be to engage the clutch here is a tip use a scale to make each shoe weight the same good luck and please let me how this works for you guys I really want to knowCheers
Terry
After taking the clutch apart I found that the pins in one of the three clutch outer pieces were not properly seated. In picture A you can see where I circled the two pins that stick out too far. In picture B you can see that when the defective outer piece is placed against the hub they are not flush in the area circled. In picture C you can see, where I circled, how one of the good outer pieces mates flush with the hub as it should. My question to Terry is, should I try to tap the pins in and risk damaging the defective piece or should I send it back?
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Ok, I had to try this. I found an 11mm deep socket that fit perfectly in the spring recess on the shoe and using a hammer I gently tapped on the pins. See picture. It worked, the pins tapped easily into place and the shoe fits flush against the hub. 
I am also stretching the springs slightly from 20mm length to 25mm length to see if that helps. I don't really want to grind material off. I'll keep you posted as to the results.
I am also stretching the springs slightly from 20mm length to 25mm length to see if that helps. I don't really want to grind material off. I'll keep you posted as to the results.Attachments
I would try to squeeze them together in a vise using it like a press a hammer my damage the shoe
This is a good thing sounds like you got it figured out Good job mike and I will be sending you the tracking number for your Poo Poo tonight LOL
Cheer
Terry
Cheer
Terry
New update. I tried the stretched springs and there was some improvement. Then I went to the local hardware and bought some .5" diameter x 1" length x .062" thickness springs (see pictures). The second picture has the new spring on the left and the old one on the right. After taking it apart yet again (I'm getting pretty good at it) and putting in the new springs, I am pretty happy with how it idles. I may or may not try the shoe lightening. I will see how that works for others.
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I'm also ordering some oilite bushings from Mcmaster-Carr to see if they make any difference. The stock bushing just doesn't seem very "oily". I don't trust the quality of the chinese bushing. Other than this clutch grabbing nuisance, I am really liking the way it rides. I have a Manic Mechanic 36 tooth sprocket in the back with the 11 tooth freewheel pulley so my final reduction is 5/1 x 36/11 = 16.36:1. I only pedal a few strokes to get going and I've had it going 36mph on the flats. It just cruises at 30mph. It's pretty flat here in Sacramento so no need for lower gearing. I will get the 10 tooth output shaft and sprocket when it becomes available and that should lower my top speed by 10% or 3.6 mph. I can live with a top speed of 32.5mph and it should help my starts. If it doesn't work out, I know I can get a 5/8 bore 11 tooth sprocket from Grainger. I hope my 11 tooth freewheel pulley holds up until then.
My next step is developing the alternator for this engine. I should get my laminated alternator core tomorrow and then the experimenting really begins!
My next step is developing the alternator for this engine. I should get my laminated alternator core tomorrow and then the experimenting really begins!
I wish we where talking about all of this in my help for the 4G thread this has been really good stuff. Now when it comes to the generator I really hope you get it working I want one so bad. As for the bushing it only dose its job when it is idling and that is not that often. And your top speed is the highest 4G top speed I have heard of so far. I can tell you the reason why is because the clutch on the 5/8 4G is bigger than the one on the standard 4G. So here is a great piece of news I am taking a Huasheng 142F-cc 49cc to a hight performance shop where they build racing go carts and hes is going to build me a higher horse power Huasheng engine he is even going to dyno it. I will be putting them on the website. I am hoping he will teach me what to do to the engines so I can do it my self and save some money on the price of the higher performance engine. that is exciting 
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Oh ya I forgot the one thing I have sold a tonne of 4Gs and I have not had a single customer break a 11 tooth free wheel so your going to have to wait a long time for that to happen. The only thing that I have helped a non customer and he sheared the key in the 11 tooth and all he had to do was replace the key and he was good to go.
Hey sphilsaw1,
Sorry about taking over your post. We've started straying a little off topic but I guess we're just excited about the possibilities of the 4G setup. So have you tried lightening the clutch shoes or changing the springs?
Sorry about taking over your post. We've started straying a little off topic but I guess we're just excited about the possibilities of the 4G setup. So have you tried lightening the clutch shoes or changing the springs?
I was looking on the Komet gokart site and they sell all kinds of clutch springs for different rpms it is nice to know the size of the springs to try from the hardware store. I was thinking maybe drilling holes in the shoe would be the easiest way to remove material and keep the shoes closer to the same weight. I am going to get the springs from the hardware store for sure. This thread is very very helpful to me Thanks guys!! Other than that the 4G 5/8 HS combo has been a joy to ride.I'm also ordering some oilite bushings from Mcmaster-Carr to see if they make any difference. The stock bushing just doesn't seem very "oily". I don't trust the quality of the chinese bushing. Other than this clutch grabbing nuisance, I am really liking the way it rides. I have a Manic Mechanic 36 tooth sprocket in the back with the 11 tooth freewheel pulley so my final reduction is 5/1 x 36/11 = 16.36:1. I only pedal a few strokes to get going and I've had it going 36mph on the flats. It just cruises at 30mph. It's pretty flat here in Sacramento so no need for lower gearing. I will get the 10 tooth output shaft and sprocket when it becomes available and that should lower my top speed by 10% or 3.6 mph. I can live with a top speed of 32.5mph and it should help my starts. If it doesn't work out, I know I can get a 5/8 bore 11 tooth sprocket from Grainger. I hope my 11 tooth freewheel pulley holds up until then.
My next step is developing the alternator for this engine. I should get my laminated alternator core tomorrow and then the experimenting really begins!
Heck, dont worry about it. We have gained some great info here. With this being one of the main transmission options for a 4 stroke we need to keep going with this so that we can have safe and reliable motorbikes and help the sport grow.
I am taking the 4G and a my yellow 2 stroke to a cruise nite thursday. then i will tear to the tranny for the 5th time its a cake walk now taking it apart. I will try the springs 1st then if that doesnt cure it i will drill the the shoes.
If someone knows all the measurement for the cluctch including the keyway we can get a clutch from komet gokarts about $40 then we can taylor the engagement with different rpm springs. I wonder if we can change the name of the thread to (4G 2010 Delmar Fatboy IMPORTANT CLUTCH INFO)
I don't know why but i did not get a notice of a new post and I did not see you ask me about the clutch parts??? I will check into that but in my head I am hearing my supplier saying no because they ordered all of these up grade transmissions and no support parts but I will find out tomorow. Sorry for the late responce
