Replacing head gaskets

BikeGuyver

BikeGuyver

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Well after some carb cleaner was used to clean up engine lower gasket failed - not sure if it happened as a result of that or what.. ordered both new gaskets and have to buy a torque wrench.. will post pics when i get the head off.. wish me luck!
 

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Unfortunately, I forgot to order the intake gasket..
 

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After you put about 100 miles on it, retorque the head bolts a second time. I torque mine to 120-125 in lbs.

You can buy gasket material at an auto supply and make intake gaskets.
 
Do what Biknut suggested, go to an auto parts store and get some gasket material. The kit gaskets are crap. They disintegrate and turn to goo.
Get the better grade material if they sell more than one type.
I've made my own gaskets several times. You'll need a good x-acto knife
blade or box cutter razor knife.
Use a bullet casing , or take apart a ball point pen and use the hollow pen shaft to make a punch for the stud holes. Improvise with something laying around the shop.
The bottom jug gaskets are a bit of a challenge but you can do it if you're determined.
Good luck man
TIM
 
ok bought the only torque wrench in the store, and gasket material. the torque wrench was rated 20-120 lbs, too high, so i took it back and just used a regular socket wrench... i would much rather use a torque wrench but also i wanted to go for a ride today :)

greased up the bottom gasket, stuck it on, and the top gasket. made the intake gasket from the material.

so i tightened the nuts and ... it works! i'm so happy. i will slightly tighten them after 100 miles. and i'm thinking i'd much rather just borrow somebody's torque wrench... the only thing i would use it on is probably this engine, for now. $75 is a lot for a tool for one of these engines if i'm not using it for other things.
 
A Torque wrench is nice to have. I got mine for 20 bucks on ebay or maybe amazon.
It's a 1/4 Pittsburgh 20-200. It's very nice.
 
when i have been working on ww2 radial aircraft engines or flat4 vw engines i tap out the gaskets w/ a ball peen hammer.
i cut out the material a little bigger than i need.
drill one hole to secure to the manifold. then do the the other holes.
the i lightly tap @ about a 45 degree angle. going around & around.
let the hammer do the work slowly. don't pull on the gasket.
it isn't for everybody. my dad who is a 2 generation radial mechanic says my gaskets look better than any other cut or tapped ones he has seen.
 
decoherence said:
when i have been working on ww2 radial aircraft engines or flat4 vw engines i tap out the gaskets w/ a ball peen hammer.
i cut out the material a little bigger than i need.
drill one hole to secure to the manifold. then do the the other holes.
the i lightly tap @ about a 45 degree angle. going around & around.
let the hammer do the work slowly. don't pull on the gasket.
it isn't for everybody. my dad who is a 2 generation radial mechanic says my gaskets look better than any other cut or tapped ones he has seen.
Click to expand...
Except for the head gasket needs to be metal not paper. Same for the exhaust gasket.
 
Iv been using some weird fine fiber gasket stuff for my exhaust gasket on these bikes and its held up great.. Its like, 1/16" thick however. Cuts sorta like really dense cardboard.
 
Made a thinner gasket out of 0.020'' copper, evertime I do i rebuild I reheat and anneal so the gasket is reuseable forever.
 
got everything working, then about 2 miles into the ride the exhaust gasket blew off! if it's not 1 gasket it's another i guess. that seemed like it was thicker but i'm going to use 2 of the thinner gasket paper. but the engine seems to be running fine.
 
Goat Herder said:
Sick Bike Parts

A metal gasket aluminum or copper closely matches the expansion and contraction rate of the exhaust flange maintaining a superior seal..
Click to expand...

Picked up a more affordable torque wrench -- $20. I love it!

Thanks Goat Herder, got some copper gasket goop at Autozone. Worked great! I tigtened the exhaust pipe on there a little too much and squeezed out some of the goop, but holding a piece of paper next to the seal shows no air leakage. I wonder if it is a bad idea to scrape off the goop and start over, since I don't want any metal-on-metal again.

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...mum_temperature_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

Plus some blue thread locker to hold the bolts on, hopefully this exhaust doesn't come loose again anytime soon. Also got a mirror finally! Helps a lot as I normally ride with a motorcycle helmet and visibility is limited.
 
Did you get a metal gasket too? I wanted to say don't use too much it can turn into carbon and scratch the cylinder possibly when the exhaust port scavenges so to speak.. Just a thin layer then put it together and pull it apart to see what too much is. Ya don't have to bolt it up for this. Also I keep my tubes of stuff like this on the refrigerator door. This keeps it from catytalising setting up.

In my opinion the metal gasket will make the biggest difference. Warped manifolds etc don't work so well without a gasket too. That tube of stuff ya got is some good stuff.

I recently started using SCE K&W Copper Coat Gasket Sealer G1612 - eBay (item 390282357069 end time Feb-19-11 20:27:25 PST) for my head gasket yes with a metal gasket too but the deal of it is when this stuff goes on I don't touch things again. I like to use this http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00tvsQBgCMHEie/Serrated-Lock-Washers-External-Teeth.jpg Then simply leave my motors assembled there at the cylinder head .

None of this stuff is necessary they are things I like to use tho. Also this stuff will ''not'' be hard to clean off. The tube of stuff you got is easy to clean off. Non of this stuff is a more is better type scenario either it just takes a delicate finesse.
 
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I am about to take on the project of replacing my first head gasket. I have read this thread and have gathered that I will need to:

Buy aluminum gasket
Use Copper gasket sealer
Use torque wrench to secure head nuts
Use Blue Loctite on head studs

Is there anything im missing, this bike is my only means of transportation at the moment.
 
Get rid of the acorn nuts. I'd suggest the SBP replacement head studs. For $12 at Harbour Freight get a tap set and tap all the holes out. Use that heavy grease you got to lube the tap. Then the chips from tapping stick to the grease. When you torque the head stud nuts use an "X" or "Z" pattern to tighten the head down and get to the final torque in stages. My torque setting is 12 1/2 lbs. I started at 2 1/2 lb and went up 2 1/2 lb each go around until I reached 12 1/2. I have no leaks around the head gasket at all and my compression is very high.
 
Is it normal for there to be alot of play with the studs when only the head is removed. The holes that go through the block are rather larger than the studs.

I tried using a RTV Gasket maker to seal up the head. I am heading out to the garage now to see if it made a good seal. Hopefully I'll be riding my bike shortly.
 
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