bogging down
- Thread starter squire
- Start date
Creative Engineering
New Member
If you heat the area around the broken bolt...the aluminum only...and then use the center punch at a right angle to the direction of rotation, tap gently and the broken off piece will slowly come out. Once a few threads are exposed you can grab it with pliers and remove it the rest of the way.
Try to direct your center punch on the easy-out! Do Not heat the aluminum too much, and make sure you direct it away from the easy out/steel stud that remains in the engine. You want the aluminum to expand, not the steel.
You can try this without heat! If you are patient it will work without heat!
Jim
Try to direct your center punch on the easy-out! Do Not heat the aluminum too much, and make sure you direct it away from the easy out/steel stud that remains in the engine. You want the aluminum to expand, not the steel.
You can try this without heat! If you are patient it will work without heat!
Jim
Jim, I see where you are going with this and its great to help out a newbie with this kind of problem. This is something I deal with all the time and would like to offer a suggestion if the heat method fails. I will use a Dremel rotary tool and using a cutoff wheel cut a slot into the broken stud, then with a slotted screwdriver the same size as the broken stud and a pair of vice grips firmly clamped on the screwdriver give it a strong tug. 99% of the time this works. just a suggestion if all else fails. MAC
Bikeguy Joe
Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
I never met an E-Z Out I didn't like to break.
Bikeguy Joe
Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
If you use the Creative Engineering's method to remove the stud.....just keep in mind it may take awhile, but it will come out.
I used that method to remove an extra large E-Z Out, and it came out...after 4+ hours of tap tap tapping.
I used that method to remove an extra large E-Z Out, and it came out...after 4+ hours of tap tap tapping.
Creative Engineering
New Member
Yeah! It can be real tedious...I've never had much luck with easy out's either.
Great idea Motormac. For this instance the only problem would be the intake surface, if he slipped enough times with the dremel It would have to be remachined to prevent leaks.
Jim
Creative Engineering
New Member
Squire,
I added a few notes to one of your photos that should give you an idea of how to do it.
Start out with the punch at a 45 degree angle relative to the intake surface to get a good indentation. After that alter the angle slightly as you're tapping. Also try holding the punch nearly in-line with the stud and giving it a sharp hit 2-3 times, then continue at an angle again.
It can be time consuming, but it's a happy moment when you see the blasted thing start to move...Once you get it turning, only tap as hard as is required to keep it going.
Good luck!
Jim
I added a few notes to one of your photos that should give you an idea of how to do it.
Start out with the punch at a 45 degree angle relative to the intake surface to get a good indentation. After that alter the angle slightly as you're tapping. Also try holding the punch nearly in-line with the stud and giving it a sharp hit 2-3 times, then continue at an angle again.
It can be time consuming, but it's a happy moment when you see the blasted thing start to move...Once you get it turning, only tap as hard as is required to keep it going.
Good luck!
Jim
Attachments
got it!, thanks jim... took a bit but it work it self out..hey your in clearwater..
how much is your clutch adapter? are you willing to trade for some tattoos? lol i work at the good ol atomic tattoos in brandon!
Saddletramp1200
Custom MB Buiilder
I had a Chevy Corvair that ate head bolts like that. I am a member of the broken E/Z out club. You better go to Church this weekend just to be safe. Iv'e only seen that happen three times in 30 years! The force is with you. Good Walk thru, Jim! P.S. drilling an EZ out is almost impossible.