lol nut the funny thing to me I did not relize it was something now from dax till after I ordered it and only did that to cover all bases on fixing my bike lol
Dax Balanced lower...?
- Thread starter mapbike
- Start date
Just got my new F80 balanced end in the mail. I have to say first off its the qualty I've come to expect from Dax. I'm going to be comparing it to my F50 later this afternoon. but from first look the only real difference I see is the F80 piston has a bigger dome on the piston then the F50 has. here are pics of the F80http://motorbicycling.com/album.php?albumid=1311 I will be taking a couple weeks to put it all together since I don't have the cash I need right now to have my dude port the piston for the reeds but as I work on it Ill be taking more pics
I got both the balanced bottom end and top end just shy of 120 to my door. its kind of funny its 30 cheaper to get both half's then just get the f80 motor lol but some assembly required as they say.
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For the newbies that went this far into this topic about vibration and performance enhancement this is the time for you to assess your own mechanical skills, your time as well as the tools you own to actually do it.
This long topic is littered with people that bought parts but have not installed them.
'Cracking the case' on your new little 2-stroke is not that easy, putting it all back together the right way the first time is even harder.
If you just want a reliable motorized bicycle that will do over 30MPH with a 66cc while sitting up without making your hands vibration sore after a few miles this the simple formula I use for my 'showroom' bikes for local sale:
-A good steel bike with dual brakes, I like Macargi Pantera's of late.
-A 2012+ Grubee GT-5 Skyhawk engine kit.
-Get the extra front mount kit or get an SBP front mount for your front tube size, Get an Iridium plug and dual pull brake lever at the same time.
-Bolt the motor on with metal to metal contact, no rubber or padding or other crap between the mounts.
-Strip the handlebars, a box cutter works well for the grips if they are stubborn, then cut the hard plastic off the throttle barrel and toss the left side one away, those hard plastic grips really suck bad and why your hands hurt.
-Get a set of BMX style foam grips, remove your throttle barrel and 'milk' the new grip on the throttle barrel.
-Attach the parts back on the handlebars for easy logical use, dual pull brake and throttle on the right, shifter (if you have one), clutch and other foam grip on the left.
-Replace the stock wire from the Magneto to CDI with some good fat gauge wire like outdoor extension cord wire and use an Iridium plug.
-Run fresh premium gas with the proper oil mix (2/3 cup break in, 1/2 cup per gallon after).
Sure, the motor may still have slight vibration but nothing like what BGF and other old motor kits have, and you just don't feel it at all with foam grips.
The way I see it pushing these little 2-stroke motors beyond intended limits with expensive add-ons for a couple miles an hour direct drive is just silly if involves breaking motor case when just an X-chamber pipe will do most of that, and if you really want to ride scarey quick or fast do it with gears like a shift kit and run your motor in it's normal RPM smooth sweet spot.
For the hard core wrench turning hobbyist with cash to burn all of this is great info and cool stuff, I am just trying to point out to the rookies you just don't need all these hard to do 'improvements' to build yourself a nice reliable comfortable to ride motorized bicycle is all.
This long topic is littered with people that bought parts but have not installed them.
'Cracking the case' on your new little 2-stroke is not that easy, putting it all back together the right way the first time is even harder.
If you just want a reliable motorized bicycle that will do over 30MPH with a 66cc while sitting up without making your hands vibration sore after a few miles this the simple formula I use for my 'showroom' bikes for local sale:
-A good steel bike with dual brakes, I like Macargi Pantera's of late.
-A 2012+ Grubee GT-5 Skyhawk engine kit.
-Get the extra front mount kit or get an SBP front mount for your front tube size, Get an Iridium plug and dual pull brake lever at the same time.
-Bolt the motor on with metal to metal contact, no rubber or padding or other crap between the mounts.
-Strip the handlebars, a box cutter works well for the grips if they are stubborn, then cut the hard plastic off the throttle barrel and toss the left side one away, those hard plastic grips really suck bad and why your hands hurt.
-Get a set of BMX style foam grips, remove your throttle barrel and 'milk' the new grip on the throttle barrel.
-Attach the parts back on the handlebars for easy logical use, dual pull brake and throttle on the right, shifter (if you have one), clutch and other foam grip on the left.
-Replace the stock wire from the Magneto to CDI with some good fat gauge wire like outdoor extension cord wire and use an Iridium plug.
-Run fresh premium gas with the proper oil mix (2/3 cup break in, 1/2 cup per gallon after).
Sure, the motor may still have slight vibration but nothing like what BGF and other old motor kits have, and you just don't feel it at all with foam grips.
The way I see it pushing these little 2-stroke motors beyond intended limits with expensive add-ons for a couple miles an hour direct drive is just silly if involves breaking motor case when just an X-chamber pipe will do most of that, and if you really want to ride scarey quick or fast do it with gears like a shift kit and run your motor in it's normal RPM smooth sweet spot.
For the hard core wrench turning hobbyist with cash to burn all of this is great info and cool stuff, I am just trying to point out to the rookies you just don't need all these hard to do 'improvements' to build yourself a nice reliable comfortable to ride motorized bicycle is all.
Or, the newbies can learn the hard way like we did that's what makes us so cool .and splitting the case is easy if you have the right mechanical ability ,its only difficult if you lack in mechanical ability .So, if 8 ounces is 16 to1 ratio and 6 ounces is 24 to 1 ratio in 4 ounces to 32 to 1 ratio what ratio is 2/3 of a cup? Casey I'm an old timer I'm confused help me out buddy ol pal
KC I agree with you for the most part but my son has a bgf and I have a dax ( the dax I think I messed up lol ) but both of them are just tightly mounted and the bgf has vibration but not as bad as what I hear about my dax on the other hand has almost no vibration at all. Ive heard many good things about the skyhawk and between owing a dax and skyhawk I believe they are the only 2 engines Id have for my personaly use
Why does every thread real like a subjective product placement advertisement these days?
I concur with previous statements that its would be best to leave reviews until after the engines have been used. I don't doubt the quality since DAX products are stood by and have a good reputation, but until they do some miles who knows what to expect.
I concur with previous statements that its would be best to leave reviews until after the engines have been used. I don't doubt the quality since DAX products are stood by and have a good reputation, but until they do some miles who knows what to expect.
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Because we love our toys and when we get a cool toy we share it with our friends .And if you don't like it don't come to show and tell.
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My experience has shown me 25:1 non-synthetic 2-stroke oil for break in for a couple of tanks, then 32:1 synthetic 2-stroke oil there after.
The Math:
1 gallon = 128 oz = 16 cups.
25:1 one gallon mix is 5.2 oz = 2/3 cup oil.
32:1 one gallon mix is 4 oz = 1/2 cup oil.
Skyhawk motor kits has a 2.5 liter tank.
To carry enough the exact amount of oil with you for a full tank of gas at the gas station:
2.5L = .66 (2/3) gallons = 84.5 oz = 10 1/2 cups
25:1 .66 gallon mix = 3.4 oz
32:1 .66 gallon mix = 2.6 oz
I just use a glass cooking liquid measuring cup, it will do ounces, cups and mL, I just find cups easier to remember.
Then I label my 1 gallon gas cans, 25:1 break-in, 32:1 normal, 50:1 for Amsoil mix and another one I label 'mystery gas', that's what I drain the gas from a repair job bike into if fuel is suspect.
I'm just passing on what works best for me guys, like all advice just take it or leave it ;-}
Ok, a review after mileage you want .Well here you go pal . After running in 300 miles and converting back to AMSOIL premium gas and AMSOIL octane boost , this morning with third transfer port and Arrow Reedblock she turned 8500RPMs Reallllllyyyyyy quick & smooth. It's scarcely fast. 32:1, 98 Octane. When he comes out with the 40 mm stroke I'll be one the first to purchase one of them .
No it not that expensive. a gallon of premium gas that's 94 octane Cost me in st.Louis,mo. around $3.78 today and the AMSOIL oil @ 32:1 costs about $1.50 the AMSOIL octane boost cost me $1.25 so it cost me to mix it up $6.53 per gallon. And worth every penny!!!! But the best oil and the highest Octane I can come up with without going to the race track . (98 Octane mixed)
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