She wants to start... but it's a no go :( help!

NerpAngel

NerpAngel

New Member
So tonight i finished setting up my bike with everything and I was excited to test her out. I mixed my fuel and oil and poured some into the gas tank and screwed the cap back on. I mounted my bike, opened the fuel valve, pushed the little pump button on the carb once just for kicks and giggles, pulled in the clutch lever, and off i went. I started pedaling and everything was going smooth so I decided it was time to test it out! I let go of the clutch lever and boom it started to sing for a second then slowly died on me.... when i sat there confused as **** i looked around and saw my chain had completely come off the rear sprocket.... lol? I'm assuming the engine died in about 2-3 seconds because the chain came off the sprocket and wasn't pulling anymore. I got my chain back on and re adjusted the "chain tension" piece of crap that came with the kit and tried it again only to have the chain come off 1 or 2 seconds after i released the clutch lever..... So... any help? plEASE?!?! I WANT TO RIDE SO BADLY~!!@
 
Last edited:
is your rear sprocket on right? no wobbles or hops in it?

is the chain in line with both sprockets?

did the chain fall off because of the master link?

is it too loose, even with the tensioner?

give us some more info...
 
realine your sprockety to the engine and make sure it is strait! then it should be good togo ok so for now get it strait and go from their !!!!!!!!!!!!! ride long anf live long later The Willi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
the rear sprocket wobbles just barely barely barely.

the chain is all lined up and everything. (The chain ran through perfectly with the clutch lever held in.)

master link is still attached. The whole chain itself either jammed or fell off the rear sprocket.

I don't believe it's too loose. It doesn't hang there but it has a tiny bit of tension.
 
NerpAngel said:
So tonight i finished setting up my bike with everything and I was excited to test her out. I mixed my fuel and oil and poured some into the gas tank and screwed the cap back on. I mounted my bike, opened the fuel valve, pushed the little pump button on the carb once just for kicks and giggles, pulled in the clutch lever, and off i went. I started pedaling and everything was going smooth so I decided it was time to test it out! I let go of the clutch lever and boom it started to sing for a second then slowly died on me.... when i sat there confused as **** i looked around and saw my chain had completely come off the rear sprocket.... lol? I'm assuming the engine died in about 2-3 seconds because the chain came off the sprocket and wasn't pulling anymore. I got my chain back on and re adjusted the "chain tension" piece of crap that came with the kit and tried it again only to have the chain come off 1 or 2 seconds after i released the clutch lever..... So... any help? plEASE?!?! I WANT TO RIDE SO BADLY~!!@
Click to expand...
NerpAngel,
The chain tension and alignment is very important. Let's start at the rear sprocket. It must run true with no wobbles. Is the sprocket perfectly centered on the hub? Check it for lateral alignment as well as vertical.
Chain tension: You'll want about 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the upper portion of the chain when the lower is tight. You'll also need to assure that the tensioner wheel is aligned with the chain and not pulling it to one side or the other. Every kit supplied tensioner bracket I've seen requires a slight twist to get the centerline of the wheel to align with the path of the chain. You can clamp the bracket is a vice and use a large adjustable wrench, Channel Locks, Vice Grips, whatever to twist the bracket so the wheel is perfectly lined up with the chain. Heating the bracket is not necessary, it will bend/twist cold. Start there and get back to us with your progress.
As a side note you're going to hear from those who preach to get rid of the chain tensioner. That is bad advice. Unless the chain alignment and tension is absolutely perfect you run the risk of the chain derailing at speed due to chain sway and the lack of anything to help guide the chain onto the rear sprocket. There are many optional methods and improvements to the kit tensioner but if installed correctly and carefully, they will serve you well. One important piece of advice is to secure the bracket to the bike frame by some method that will prevent it from loosening and rotating into your rear wheel/spokes. That can be a dangerous and expensive event you'll want to avoid.
Tom
 
ok well I will go straighten out the sprocket as much as possible. Any good ideas to test to see if it's "true" against my wheel?
Also, i have heard of people bending/twisting the chain tension'er so maybe i'll go that route later on.

Oh very quickly, so i've tried to start this motor three times now... I hope i didn't "flood" or ruin the engine because it's died seconds after it tries to start :(
 
Find an extra fork and clamp it in a vice. Put a couple of zip ties on the fork, one for lateral run out (cut it so it's a little longer then you need to touch the sprocket then turn it so it just barely touches) add a second zip tie and leave it just long enough so it doesn't touch your spokes and position it so the teeth of the sprocket just miss touching it.

Not a bike wheel but here's mine so you can get the idea.
 

Attachments

  • 102_0328.JPG
    102_0328.JPG
    303.8 KB · Views: 175
Um... i'm a complete noob and I didn't understand anything you just said there... :/ Also i'm confused with the picture...
 
It's a poor man's truing stand. Find a front fork, mount it in a vice, put your rear wheel in it, you may have to force the fork legs out a bit to accommodate a rear wheel. Put a zip tie around the fork leg like I have in the picture so it just touches the sprocket, as you spin the wheel you'll be able to tell if there is any wobble to the sprocket. The zip tie "feeler" will help you see where the sprocket is either too far in or too far out and you can adjust the bolts on the sprocket mount until the zip tie touches the sprocket evenly all the way around.

Having your sprocket mounted completely straight and true is the single most important and most difficult part of installing a motor kit.
 
gotcha!! Ok I'm off to try this :) Thanks man!

So do you think since my sprocket isn't fully true, that's why my motor dies in a couple seconds and the chain pops off? Just wondeirng :)
Or is this to just make sure the sprocket is nice and straight..
 
When you turn your rear wheel you should not hear any teeth riding up on the sprocket because this means it will likely jump off the sprocket. It should sound smooth and uniform. When we build our bikes we always angle both sides of the sprocket teeth so they are sharp which acts as a self guide. The most important tension is between the tension wheel and the sprocket itself. In the center of this distance there should be about 1/4" play. Hope this helps.
If you run in to more problems these FAQ'S may help. Good Luck!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top