Rutoung carburetor choke

[Rudz]

First, I lost the pin that holds the choke lever in, I finally got around to messing with it today. As it turns out, a spoke is the right diameter to shove in the hole, problem solved?

Not quite, now my slide doesn't go high enough to disengage the choke lever, so now I have no problem engaging the lever, the problem is disengaging it, lol.

It's warming up, so I probably don't need it as much, but does anyone have any idea? Other than removing the arm that latches and just move the lever manually.

I thought about trimming the spring on the slide, so it reaches the top and disengages the choke, but I don't know it that will prevent the slide from returning fully.

 

[2door]

Every RT I've had I've removed that automatic choke mechanism. I make it a manual choke and never look back. I have never liked it and think it is the weakest link in the RT. However, that's just me. Others might have a better solution for you.

Tom

 

[Rudz]

But I like it being automatic! Lmfao.


I'll probably end up taking the stupid latch off

 

[Trey]

Every RT I've had I've removed that automatic choke mechanism. I make it a manual choke and never look back. I have never liked it and think it is the weakest link in the RT. However, that's just me. Others might have a better solution for you.

Tom

Nope. That's it.

 

[Davezilla]

There is a way to prevent the pin from coming out on these but you need the pin first. The problem is that the pin fits too loosely in that plastic body and if it can move at all it'll work its way loose enough to fall out.
The fix I saw to do is with a new carb, remove the pin carefully and apply a small amount of jb weld to the end of the pin, reinsert the pin, then clean up any excess jb weld so it don't bind up the mechanism. On the outside where the end of the pin is exposed, push some jb into the hole to fill any voids between the plastic and the pin, clean up any excess again and let it fully cure.

Fred made a video on this a while back using that clear 5 minute epoxy stuff but I don't trust that stuff on plastics because it almost always starts to peel off. Jb don't stick to.plastics very well either but if you rough up the surface in the hole with a jewelers file then it cant go anywhere when you pack it in. http://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=UOCUwp3eA7k

Personally I would drill a 1/32" hole thrum the outer end of the hole the pin goes into and installna rollnpinnor a small cotter pin... then that choke pin is going nowhere. Don't try this unless you got a Really steady hand, just keep an eye on the jb and check it to make sure it don't start to peel.

 

[Rudz]

Yeah, I found that a spoke is just the right diameter to replace the shaft that vibrates loose. Problem is now, the slide doesn't disengage the choke, oh well. I didn't need it tonight

 

[GoreWound]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOCUwp3eA7k
reposting the link to Freds video that Davezilla posted above (link didn't work when I clicked it, but I got to the video anyway so here it is again just in case)
This video should be stickied somewhere.

I see no reason you couldn't so this epoxy trick with your spoke piece.

and as far as it not disengaging anymore, I am not sure but I think there is a specific assembly order for this carburetor. I couldn't tell you what order, but something needs to go in before or after the lever goes in to make the connection. Or there might be something you need to catch with the lever as you assemble it.

if someone out there knows for sure how to assemble this carb and could post that here they would be an awesome person.

 

[Rudz]

The slide is supposed to hit the spring loaded lever to disengage the choke, problem is, the spring in the slide prevents the slide from going high enough to disengage the choke.

 

[GoreWound]

you can either find a shorter spring or lift the housing around it.
on this carb I am pretty sure that you would need to cut out a gasket to pull off a lift.

actually before trying anything like that, make sure your throttle cable is nice and tight.