hey everyone, so my bike four strokes when ever i keep a steady throttle, so i bought the leanest jet i could find off ebay, while i was screwing the jet in, i noticed it was a snung fit in the carb, does this make a difference? anyway when i went to start the bike the bike just wouldnt stay on i had to keep on reving it and it would almost die then ill give it full throttle then the revs would fly up again then it would die. the jet size was a 0.60 i think,should any engine behave liek this when you put a very lean jet in it? or is it because of the snug fit in the carb? thanks!
rt carb jet
- Thread starter motorized kodiak
- Start date
I run a .60mm jet in my RT, and I don't have this problem.
I am a little suspicious of jets you buy, and make my own by soldering a .68 and redrilling.
The main jet on an RT should have little effect on idle, the distribution tube has three holes in it, make sure that the lowest hole (idle jet) is inline with the hole in the carb body.
I use a very fine wire to check this.
the distribution tube has a screw driver slot and can be rotated.
This is possibly your problem.
I am a little suspicious of jets you buy, and make my own by soldering a .68 and redrilling.
The main jet on an RT should have little effect on idle, the distribution tube has three holes in it, make sure that the lowest hole (idle jet) is inline with the hole in the carb body.
I use a very fine wire to check this.
the distribution tube has a screw driver slot and can be rotated.
This is possibly your problem.
Dito: I have found this on two RT carbs. I also solder and drill my jets checking performance after each jet size adjustment. You'll know when you go too lean. It might sound like "four stroking" but in fact the engine is starving for fuel. 'Bogging' or loss of power at WOT can be a lean condition. Idle is also effected and dying at idle speed is also a symptom of an undersized jet orifice.
How many miles have you accurued on this engine? Trying for best performance/tuning before at least two hundred miles is difficult. New engines don't produce like a well broken in engine will.
Tom
How many miles have you accurued on this engine? Trying for best performance/tuning before at least two hundred miles is difficult. New engines don't produce like a well broken in engine will.
Tom
It sounds like you need to adjust the throttle cable and open the carb up slightly. Just remove the carb from the intake on your motor and hold the throttle cable while you spin the carb around a time or two until the intake slot is a little wider, then you can put it back on and adjust the idle to keep it going with no throttle.
maybe, my throttle has alot of play, because of the cable i had to get for the new carb. but when i take out my spark plug, the middle of it is almost white, like a grey white but on the threads of the spark plug, there is black oil.
Unless you check it with a set of drills and a micrometer your '.6' jet could be any size.
I have an RT in front of me, and if I shine an LED torch up the hole were the main jet should go, I can see light through my idle jet, that's what I'd be checking.
I have an RT in front of me, and if I shine an LED torch up the hole were the main jet should go, I can see light through my idle jet, that's what I'd be checking.
I have 2 RT carbs and some of the jets fit tight and don't quite go all the way in but they do seal and don't leak around the threads. Have you cut the piston skirt yet? All my engines wanted to be leaned down pretty far from the stock jet until I cut the skirt to match the intake port and they sounded like they were 4 stroking even on a jet that plug read right., once I cut the skirt and did some mild porting they ran way better and I had to go pretty far up in jet size and the 4 stroking went away. The engine finally ran and tuned the way you would expect a 2 stroke to run.