After some research i was able to remove the governor, oil sensor, and then replace the holes with bolts and loctite. I wanted to do a write up here as a reference for future builds.
Assuming you've already removed the gastank, control assy., governor support -- part numbers on predator manual would be 92- control assy, 94 - spring governor,97 bolt, governor support --take all that off untill all your left with is the governor arm poking through. (shown in the 1st picture)
Highly advice you have a predator manual to help identify parts and such.
From here
Steps.
1. You want to pull the governor arm as far up as you can and clamp it with the support pin it originally had. Then saw it off however you can. Grinder with 40 grit works best. Got mine for 11.77 w coupon from HB.
(wear google, shrapnel may spark)
2. Mark the bolts on the crank case cover so you know how tight the bolts need to be when your done. Then go ahead, throw some elbow grease down and wrench the bolts off. manual 24 - crankcase cover.
3. Carefully take of crank case cover. Most likely the camshaft assy. (part #40) will fall out of place. Dont freak out about the timing, this piece falls almost every time you take the cover off. Ill show you how to time it right before we reassemble. Also note, oil will fall out, so dont make the mistake of doing this in your bedroom with out something to catch the oil from hitting the carpet.
REMOVING GOVERNOR
4. Rotate the crankshaft (part#32) so that you can easily pull the governor arm out with pliers. You may have to tap the top governor arm with a bolt to loosen it, then yank it out with a pair of pliers. Note, the governor arm actually says "ARM" on it.
5. Taking apart the governor gear assembly (part#15) Isnt too bad. First, simple pull the white cap in the middle of the gear with pliers, make sure to grab the black washer behind it. This is the 1 of 3 washers you have to make sure to grab. Next shine a light to get an idea of where everything should be (or take a picture) always good to keep stuff documented.
6. Nows the tricky part. At the very base of the governor gear youll see a silver pin. Rather then crush the gear and tear it out like other animals on youtube, if you can get the pin out, the gear can be removed with greater precision and less plastic pieces to fall apart. Its a pain, and took me about ana hour to get the pin off. Using a very small flat head, carefully tap the flat head with a hammer to create a space on the pin, then you will be able to eventually pull it out. You can see the pin in the picture with the purple micro flat head.
7. Once you get the pin off, firmly grasp the gear, and pull straight up. Most likely you'll cut up your nucks so wear gloves. After the gear is out, look for another black washer at the bast of the gear, takes time, but get it out using the same Flathead. This is the 2nd black washer you need to remover.
DISCLAIMER : I have to apologize, but after typing this i cant seem to recall where the third washer is LOL.. think it may have been on the lower side of the governor arm, but i cant remember.. Ill edit later once i remember.
THATS IT FOR THE GOVERNOR
- REMOVE THE OIL SENSOR
8. Simply unscrew the nut on the out side and disconnect the yellow wire. Unscrew the two bolts holding the oil sensor to the base of the crankcase. Pull the oil sensor out. Easy.
9. Now you have 2 empty holes. What now ? Go ahead and get your self a 1/4 - 17 self tapping screw (for the top governor arm) and take the nut used to keep the oil sensor screw on to the nearest home depot, and ask for a bolt that size. (it helps just to take the oil sensor and nut with you and explain what your doing) Grab some red loctite while your there.
10. Place a piece of electrical tape to cover the governor arm inside the crankcase so that no shards of aluminum fall through. Thread the 1/4 - 17 self tapping screw first to get a good fit, then thread again with red loctite. Tighten as tight as you can by hand, then a half turn more.
11. Now thread the bolt for the oil sensor with red loctite, fitting it through the inside of the crankcase to the outside with a pair of pliers, screw the nut on the other side, tighten until you can switch from the pliers to a wrench, then wrench as tight as you can by hand, then a half turn more.
12. Use a shop towel to clean the inside of the crankcase. Look for any fallen shrapnel or plastic, or anything els, and clean it out. I used a can of computer duster to spray and left over plastic pieces out. Go ahead and remove the electrical tape off the governor and discard. (make sure theirs no leaking loctite there).
13. Set the camshaft back in place. You'll see a mark with a sharpie on the camshaft, and another mark on the crankshaft. If you dont see a mark on the crank shaft ( my situation) you'll see a faint circle on the crankshaft. Match those to up and your good. Check the picture of accuracy.
14. Replace the crankcase with a new gasket, and carefully place the crankcase cover back on. Securing the bolts, tighten back to the original marks.
There you go. Good luck ! message with any questions !
Assuming you've already removed the gastank, control assy., governor support -- part numbers on predator manual would be 92- control assy, 94 - spring governor,97 bolt, governor support --take all that off untill all your left with is the governor arm poking through. (shown in the 1st picture)
Highly advice you have a predator manual to help identify parts and such.
From here
Steps.
1. You want to pull the governor arm as far up as you can and clamp it with the support pin it originally had. Then saw it off however you can. Grinder with 40 grit works best. Got mine for 11.77 w coupon from HB.
(wear google, shrapnel may spark)
2. Mark the bolts on the crank case cover so you know how tight the bolts need to be when your done. Then go ahead, throw some elbow grease down and wrench the bolts off. manual 24 - crankcase cover.
3. Carefully take of crank case cover. Most likely the camshaft assy. (part #40) will fall out of place. Dont freak out about the timing, this piece falls almost every time you take the cover off. Ill show you how to time it right before we reassemble. Also note, oil will fall out, so dont make the mistake of doing this in your bedroom with out something to catch the oil from hitting the carpet.
REMOVING GOVERNOR
4. Rotate the crankshaft (part#32) so that you can easily pull the governor arm out with pliers. You may have to tap the top governor arm with a bolt to loosen it, then yank it out with a pair of pliers. Note, the governor arm actually says "ARM" on it.
5. Taking apart the governor gear assembly (part#15) Isnt too bad. First, simple pull the white cap in the middle of the gear with pliers, make sure to grab the black washer behind it. This is the 1 of 3 washers you have to make sure to grab. Next shine a light to get an idea of where everything should be (or take a picture) always good to keep stuff documented.
6. Nows the tricky part. At the very base of the governor gear youll see a silver pin. Rather then crush the gear and tear it out like other animals on youtube, if you can get the pin out, the gear can be removed with greater precision and less plastic pieces to fall apart. Its a pain, and took me about ana hour to get the pin off. Using a very small flat head, carefully tap the flat head with a hammer to create a space on the pin, then you will be able to eventually pull it out. You can see the pin in the picture with the purple micro flat head.
7. Once you get the pin off, firmly grasp the gear, and pull straight up. Most likely you'll cut up your nucks so wear gloves. After the gear is out, look for another black washer at the bast of the gear, takes time, but get it out using the same Flathead. This is the 2nd black washer you need to remover.
DISCLAIMER : I have to apologize, but after typing this i cant seem to recall where the third washer is LOL.. think it may have been on the lower side of the governor arm, but i cant remember.. Ill edit later once i remember.
THATS IT FOR THE GOVERNOR
- REMOVE THE OIL SENSOR
8. Simply unscrew the nut on the out side and disconnect the yellow wire. Unscrew the two bolts holding the oil sensor to the base of the crankcase. Pull the oil sensor out. Easy.
9. Now you have 2 empty holes. What now ? Go ahead and get your self a 1/4 - 17 self tapping screw (for the top governor arm) and take the nut used to keep the oil sensor screw on to the nearest home depot, and ask for a bolt that size. (it helps just to take the oil sensor and nut with you and explain what your doing) Grab some red loctite while your there.
10. Place a piece of electrical tape to cover the governor arm inside the crankcase so that no shards of aluminum fall through. Thread the 1/4 - 17 self tapping screw first to get a good fit, then thread again with red loctite. Tighten as tight as you can by hand, then a half turn more.
11. Now thread the bolt for the oil sensor with red loctite, fitting it through the inside of the crankcase to the outside with a pair of pliers, screw the nut on the other side, tighten until you can switch from the pliers to a wrench, then wrench as tight as you can by hand, then a half turn more.
12. Use a shop towel to clean the inside of the crankcase. Look for any fallen shrapnel or plastic, or anything els, and clean it out. I used a can of computer duster to spray and left over plastic pieces out. Go ahead and remove the electrical tape off the governor and discard. (make sure theirs no leaking loctite there).
13. Set the camshaft back in place. You'll see a mark with a sharpie on the camshaft, and another mark on the crankshaft. If you dont see a mark on the crank shaft ( my situation) you'll see a faint circle on the crankshaft. Match those to up and your good. Check the picture of accuracy.
14. Replace the crankcase with a new gasket, and carefully place the crankcase cover back on. Securing the bolts, tighten back to the original marks.
There you go. Good luck ! message with any questions !
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