HCS' custom Walmart Schwinn Avenue road/hybrid

[happycheapskate]

See my album for more.

I bought a Schwinn Avenue for $50 used, and it has evolved from a skinny tired "mountain bike" into a wild cyclocross bike, and now the motor assisted do-it-all bike. I pedal it to pull my kid around the lake, then motor around to appointments or to see friends when I have a "day off" (babysitter).

I recommend this bike (for rear rack kits or a pedal only bike) because it is fun to ride and has a very nice frame and reliable entry-level Shimano parts.

"New" Schwinn Avenue

Schwinn converted to Cyclocross (replaced stock stem, added neck riser, drop bar, and milled out the brifter clamps to fit the wider bars)

(parts supplied by -- Bicycles, Bike parts, Mountain Bikes, BMX, Road Bikes, Haro Bikes, KHS Bikes, Felt Bikes at Niagara Cycle Works, my favorite for tires, cables, and small parts!)

Schwinn with Dax kit and Tanaka 33 , home-made throttle control, battery powered head and tail-lights, home-made presta-to-shrader spacers (bic pens cut to fit), and comfort seat for riding in pants.

 

[happycheapskate]

I rode 65 miles today in Dallas and Garland, including pedaling 10 miles around White Rock Lake and motoring around the park road a couple times. The tanaka engine runs like a dream, and tops at 24mph with the 1" roller, cruising very nicely at 19-20mph. I got passed by some road racing bicycles, and no one on bicycles waved back, except a couple of kids on BMX who wanted to race.

The home-made throttle control worked well, esp ziptied on the left handle grip and directed inwards a little to avoid the left v-brake lever. I liked it on the bar tops, but felt more in control with it on the drops, where I could operate all my gears and both brakes. I thought of this while testing it today: The PVC throttle grip can be used as an intermediate control with a "real" throttle lever or twist grip, just by running the cable straight through it and zip tying it where you want an extra control.
I had a fine day and a good ride.

The 700 x38 Kenda Kourier tires did well and didn't slip too much even when riding through puddles and muddy grass. Seems like as long as I am already moving 10mph or so, I don't lose any speed even if the engine speeds up a little when cleaning off the tire.

 

[happycheapskate]

Today I drilled 2 holes in my Dax drive channel, for mounting a cargo box to the channel with 3/8" carriage bolts. Hex bolts will also do fine if you have the correct length for the box or attachment you want. (toolbox, crate, safe, board, etc)

Here is how I mounted a $3 "show-offs" storage box from the stationery aisle at Walmart.

clear box mounted on rack

collage showing crate, box, and mutually matching bolt pattern.

The handy box was clear when I bought it. I spray painted the INSIDE with a thick coating of $1.50 Walmart paint (red, to match the upcoming wheel painting), so it doesn't look streaky, and won't scratch easily.

If you want to put cameras, phones, or electronics in here, batteries, tubes, or items that can be punctured or rattled and damaged, you might want to mount the carriage bolts with the button heads UP, and use the related inside diameter washers and holes to match. The plastic box is fragile and needs to have small pilot holes drilled, and then use a couple patches of Gorilla Tape and a very sharp drill bit and slow speed to do the larger holes, or it will split and the crack will run.

If you want to carry anything more than a couple pounds in either of these, you will need to cut a proper size square piece of wood or a couple 2x4's and mount them to the Dax, then mount your box to those (or vice versa), taking the load off the cargo box.

WARNINGS: You need to drill the holes with the dax kit OFF the bike, or with the wheel off the bike at least. Drill small pilot holes first, to mark your measurements and prevent the larger bit from "walking" on the powdercoated surface. Drill a clean hole at a fairly fast speed, or your bit could sieze in the thick metal and break.

You need to make sure the box does not touch the clutch or engine! Check your work before drilling any holes.

If you mount any electronics or delicate items in here, you need to pad the box! Vibration from the motor, and road shock, could kill your devices. Cardboard could work, but for some really deluxe padding, you can get some thick foam, like egg-crate foam, or foam knee pads from the garden center. If you want to be really fancy, you can cut 2 layers, and in the top layer, cut out the shapes of your electronics.

You need to be sure the bolts don't interfere with the engine, drive shaft, QR, tire, or bearings. If the bolt comes loose, you might loose your cargo, and the bolt could damage the wheel, tire, you, or the engine kit.

Drilling or modifying your kit might void your warranty.

$4-7 on Amazon or at DIY stores. Foam pads,

 

[happycheapskate]

cargo box with cardboard liner/tether, shown with tube, wrench, allen keys, glasses case, disposable camera, sharpie, lighter, patch kit, electrical tape, gloves, U lock and cable. This box is not waterproof, so no digital stuff in here without Glad bags.

Now, that the box is dry, I can put my favorite stickers on it!

If you use a nut permanently on each bolt, you can remove the box and carry it with you off the bike, and the bolts won't fall out while parking or riding without it.
If you just want to keep the bolts in while you change the box or clean it out, make a couple "washers" out of milk jug plastic, by poking "X" shaped holes with a knife. They will hold the bolts up temporarily, and ease installation of the box.

If you like to carry food, you can use one of those $5 fabric lunch boxes with the plastic box/liner, and it will insulate your food better. You can find them in several colors. They also work for this purpose of phones and tools, and often feature pockets.

If you use the plastic box, some type of tether or strap might be a good idea, in case the lid flies off while you are riding. Also, if you want designs or words to appear outside the box, you can tape your design with masking tape, paint, dry, pull the tape, and repaint a different color (inside box).

DOT tape, made for marking trailer bumpers and such, can be used around the box for visibility. Also you can cut small pieces and put on rims (keep away from the braking surface!). This looks really cool when night riding.

$5 to $10 for several feet at tractor stores, or ask a truck shop for some. They go through a lot of it and might give you end pieces.

 

[killercanuck]

Gotta love having some dry cargo space. That temp throttle is a pretty innovative way to get the job done.

 

[F_Rod81]

Not bad at all, keep the pics coming.

 

[happycheapskate]

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=htt...QH7wMkfAQFsNrUlLOpfsqISEx4rNmxYzKSAPcDMs1FK_Q I started a Dax Friction Drive Fan Club on FB.

Here is a ytb vid of my latest (permanent) throttle system. It works very nicely. i used a Bic Pen spring on the throttle, the QR spring was weak. It just helps the last little bit of travel back to idle, so it "snaps" back to 0%.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...91979_218445778250153_469537_2100453759_n.jpg

 

[happycheapskate]

http://motorbicycling.com/picture.php?albumid=531&pictureid=3570

I built my own boost bottle, and it works very well. The air filter cloths do not get fuel spray on them now, and it pulls better.

This bike has been a lot of fun. I ride it every week. I like the rubber bar tape and throttle levers a lot.

Here are a couple related threads about my adventures with this build and customization:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=36440
replacing filter box with go-ped velocity stack and cotton stretch guaze for filters.

Boost bottle thread:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=36806

Dax Friction Drive Fan Club http://www.hs.facebook.com/pages/Dax-Friction-Drive-fan-club/218445778250153

 

[happycheapskate]

http://sadpanda.us/images/928551-AXURMFY.jpg[/img
hybrid bike with new seat

 

[happycheapskate]

http://sadpanda.us/images/935408-F9H1ECN.jpg[/img

With 1 gallon tank made of $7 blitz can, 3 hole grommet, go kart fuel line

I like it, and the 10 lb tank & fuel is well within the rack limits, but I'm going to a rear mounted 1 gallon rectangle tank, and putting this can on my happytime bike rear rack.

For more see [url]http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=38760[/url] Dax Friction Drive Alternative Fuel Tanks

 

[happycheapskate]

Here is the bike, all dressed up in it's latest incarnation. The 1 gallon front tank was annoying and sloshy. I have built a 1 gallon side-mounted tank opposite the engine, and it balances well.

The front cargo rack has been great. I use it as a fender more than anything, but I have also used it as a place to zip-tie a spare tire on long trips, or a place to bolt on a lunch cooler. The instructions say it was made to hold 10 lbs tops. Sure it will hold more, but it will make the bike ride rough! A couple burritos or burger and fries don't seem to matter, though.

The headlight is a $5 LED lantern from Lowes, works great for a 6v lamp, good enough for bike paths and urban neighborhoods. It's just clamped on with some electrical tape and a u-bolt. hahaha. It weighs a couple lbs but doesn't bounce too much or move around. Wingnuts would be swell.

The cargo bag is a shaving bag from Walmart.

I get a lot out of this bike. I ride it every week, sometimes more. I've ridden 100 mile trips on it before. You need a Dax Friction Drive!