Got spark but it's smaller than a knat's ass hair

F

FulChevy89

New Member
I bought this kit pre-assembled from a guy that sells them on the side for extra cash about six or seven months ago. It was brand new out of the box and I haven't had a single problem with it until recently. The last few times I have taken it out, until it warmed up, it would bog down at full throttle. I would pull the clutch in, rev one good time and it would return to normal. Every time I took it out, it got worse until it wont fire at all now. I figured it was a fouled plug so I replaced it. Still no go. I pulled the plug out and tested it against the head and there is a faint hint of a spark. What is the dealio? :-||
 
It's either a bad magneto or cdi.
Do a little searching on the google custom search bar at the top of the site for more info.
 
If you're using the plastic spark plug boot, the big clunky one that comes with the kits, start there. Check the plug wire connection inside it as well as where the wire screws into the CDI.
Remove the left side cover over the magneto and check for signs of rust and/or corrosion on the magneto coil. Check all of your wiring connections. If you're using the plug in connectors on the blue and black wires get rid of them and solder those splices then protect them with heat shrink tubing.

What spark plug and gap are you running. We recommend .024 to .028.

Let us know what you find.
 
I took the old Z4C off because I thought it was fouled and replaced it with a NGK B6HS. At first I left the gap at .02 out of the box, then adjusted it to .03 which is where the old plug was gapped at, and then again to .035. I'll go out there and re-gap it, check those connections and get back to you with what I find.
 
Don't see anything unusual there. Do you have access to an ohm meter?

When you reassemble that mag coil to the crankshaft place a business card between the magnet and the coil frame to get the proper clearance. Also make sure there is no rust/varnish on the backside where it attaches to the case. That needs to be a good electrical connection.

Tom
 
Start here:

Use Low Ohm-Meter Scale About 200 Ohms

Magneto Coil

1) Check Ohms between BLACK wire and WHITE wire. Reading should be around 2 Ohms
2) Check ohms between BLUE wire and WHITE wire. Should be around 300-400 ohms.

CDI

Use Ohm Meter High Scale About 200-K
1) Positive lead on BLUE wire and Negative lead on BLACK wire should read infinite (no activity)
2) Positive lead on BLACK wire and Negative lead on BLUE wire. Should be about 130-150 K-ohms
3) Positive lead on Spark Plug wire and negative lead on BLUE wire. Should read between 135-155 K-ohms

Switch to Lower Scale 20K
4) Measure between Spark Plug wire and Black lead. Should be about 2.5 - 2.7 K- ohms

Tom
 
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Scratch that!!!
I found my digital meter a rechecked it.
black-white (low)=2.9
blue-white (low)=0
+blue--black (high)=1
+black--blue(high)=1
plug-blue (high)=6
plug-black (low)=0

I feel like I didn't do something right.
 
.xx.mine
2door said:
If you're using the plastic spark plug boot, the big clunky one that comes with the kits, start there. Check the plug wire connection inside it as well as where the wire screws into the CDI.
Remove the left side cover over the magneto and check for signs of rust and/or corrosion on the magneto coil. Check all of your wiring connections. If you're using the plug in connectors on the blue and black wires get rid of them and solder those splices then protect them with heat shrink tubing.

What spark plug and gap are you running. We recommend .024 to .028.

Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...
mine is at .35 and it knocks my a== off it is hot but also check the cdi for the correct gap from the flywheel
 
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