Fuel pump?

george_n_texas

george_n_texas

Member
Anyone ever use an electric fuel pump? I'm not sure but I am thinking maybe part of my engine warm-up is due to a lack of fuel flow. If I park my bike for more than a few minutes I gotta choke it for maybe half a minute then rev it up with clutch engaged or pedal a bit and the thing all the sudden pics up power. It just smacks of a clogged fuel filter / lack of fuel pressure to me. I found a fuel pump for $10 at the pawn shop...same one I got the "dog bone" wrench in second pic.
 

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George,
Not practical. First of all, it's just not necessary. The gravity feed system will deliver all the fuel your little engine can use. Second, the float and needle valve are designed for gravity feed and will not be able to hold back the pressure from a pump. You'll sink the float and flood the engine. Third, that pump is going to use a lot of juice. You'll need to haul around a good sized battery or a very long extension cord to keep it working. Check your fuel flow. Remove the fuel line from the carburetor, open the petcock and if you have s steady flow of fuel, even a very thin stream, it is sufficient. Your cold start problem is not a lack of fuel. Choking is not an uncommon necessity with these engines. Sometimes just partial choke and shot of prime with the tickler button is all you'll need. Forget the pump.
Tom
 
george_n_texas said:
What's a tickler button?
Click to expand...
The little spring loaded button, left side of carburetor, next to the idle speed screw. It pushes down on the float inside the carburetor and gives the engine a little extra fuel for starting. Usually it only takes a couple of seconds. Depress it, hold it down for 2 or 3 seconds then start your bike.

George,
I've just been informed by Fairracing that some of the newer Grubee carbs came without the tickler (primer). If you have this engine you might not have that feature.
Tom
 
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Them wrenches are the best tool an oil jockey can have. When I worked for a local garage, the boss kept one stuck to the side of the oil catch can. Only once did I ever have to head to the tool box for another size (some weird foreign car that had even weirder hardware...)
 
The tickler helped a bit but it still takes a while to get this thing to run wide open...bout 1/3 throdle and it sorta boggs down. If I kick in and peddle hard it finally kicks in gear. Do you think this is a fuel or electric problem? The wire on the CDI is not the best I've seen. Just for grins I gonna solder the blue wire and run the black to a good known ground (Exhaust nut). As a side note I checked the white wire for voltage and it read zero, the blue to ground reads 8 volts. The white wire to ground does kill the engine however. I would think that if the white wire diverts the flow to ground it would be hot at all times. I know things work different in China but I never heard of OHM's suggestion. (OHM's law in Engrish)
 
Hi George, it's funny with the engine running you should have some voltage at the white wire. The black is grounded to the block under the generator cover. When you ground out the white via the kill button it collapses that field which it turn collapses the blue wire field. The white and blue are 2 separate windings. I have one side of the kill button to black and the other to white. Black also to the cdi and blue to cdi nothing to the bike frame. I'm thinking your generator may have a bad white winding and your spark isn't hot enough. Dax sells them for pretty cheap.
 
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