First build Yes another Stingray

Russell

Well-Known Member
This is my first build. Would been much easier if the pull start a centrifiugal functioned! However with all the help from this fourm things worked out. Other than that things went well. Custom motor mount, steering limiter(about 110 deg swing) and spring loaded tensioner(next to the 44t sprocket). What a fun project. I must add front breaks. Very uncomfortable when you put on the rear and think if they fail, where is the best place to crash!
 

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This is my first build. Would been much easier if the pull start a centrifiugal functioned! However with all the help from this fourm things worked out. Other than that things went well. Custom motor mount, steering limiter(about 110 deg swing) and spring loaded tensioner(next to the 44t sprocket). What a fun project. I must add front breaks. Very uncomfortable when you put on the rear and think if they fail, where is the best place to crash!

If you remove your rider pegs that are on the front fork the bottom set of holes lines up perfect for a cantilever, or V brake. Put some 8 mm studs in them and you are good to go. I was pretty nervous riding it without a front brake. I have excellent brakes now, or I should say my wife does. The OCC is her bike.


John
 

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My second build (still in progress) is an OCC chopper. I switched out the front forks with a set from another OCC which had front brakes already. my new forks were made for the 20" wheel instead of the previous 24". I also used a dual brake lever. Big improvement on stopping power. Question: How did you get the left side pedal clearance from the motor?
 
My second build (still in progress) is an OCC chopper. I switched out the front forks with a set from another OCC which had front brakes already. my new forks were made for the 20" wheel instead of the previous 24". I also used a dual brake lever. Big improvement on stopping power. Question: How did you get the left side pedal clearance from the motor?

The stock exhaust will not clear the pedal so you will have to build or buy a custom pipe. You can cut the stock exhaust at the 90 degree bend and attach a piece of 3/4" conduit (bend with conduit bender) then re attach the muffler to the end. There is already a hole on the rear drop out to use to attach a hanger for the muffler. Works pretty slick.

John
 

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Great build Russell! Big time on the brakes. Firebelly (member and sponsor here, ad up top) Has dyno/brake hubs and can get them at local stores and online too. Just a thought. Then would have to lace or have some one lace the wheel for you though.

John, wow. awesome. Is there a thread about your build? Tank is incredible.
 
I had to extend the left pedal shaft by about 1 in. I cut the end of a steel crank arm and cut off about 1-1/2 of a spare crank shaft. Welded them together then drilled through the center and used a longer bolt to secure the arm and extension to the original crank shaft.
 
This is my first build. Would been much easier if the pull start a centrifiugal functioned! However with all the help from this fourm things worked out. Other than that things went well. Custom motor mount, steering limiter(about 110 deg swing) and spring loaded tensioner(next to the 44t sprocket). What a fun project. I must add front breaks. Very uncomfortable when you put on the rear and think if they fail, where is the best place to crash!

What did you do to make the steering limiter? I really need to make one.
 
Eomonkeyboi,
Here Are The Pictures That You Requested And More. The Bracket Is Made From 3/8 Alum. It Utlizes The Original Bumper Screw And Tapped Hole. It Was Made With Primitave Tools(hole Saw Hack Saw And File) Nothing Fancy. Used 1/4-20 Nylon Screws For Bumpers.
Also Picture Of Brake/turn Sig. Bracket
 

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thanks! I hope I can make one easily. I dont really have many shop tools. My main tools are a dremel and a drill haha. I'm so crafty lol.

Also where did you get your headlight?
 
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