counter sunk bolts on sprocket?

obadboystanley

obadboystanley

New Member
Hi ladies and gents from motorbicycling..before I ask my question I would like to thank everyone in this forum for all your tips,advise, and help. It sure makes life alot easier.
Ok now let me get to my problem.
The sprocket bolts are not letting the break arm on the coaster break of my bike clear. I know its a common problem with an easy fix. Vise and hammer to bend the break arm and your done. Problem is i dont have access to a vise, and i havent seen any machine shops in my neighborhood. so my question is if using counter sunk bolts a good idea? will they hold up as well as the standard bolts. are they strong enough? can i just go to the home depot get em and install them? or is there any modification to be done to the sprocket before installing?

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=11046

heres a thread so you guys can see what im talking about.
Thanks in advance.
 
The problem is that countersunk bolts require a matching countersink hole to get any benefit from the lower profile. The thicknes of the sprocket will limit you to how deep you'll be able to countersink. If you have no access to a machine shop or the proper tools, drill and a counter sink bit, how will you machine the holes to accept the bolt heads?

My advice? Bend the coaster brake arm. It would be cheaper and easier than replacing all the sprocket bolts with ones that might not provide enough clearance anyway without the proper machine work.

Tom
 
You might be able to find some low profile Cap Head bolts that will give you the clearance you need, but I since I don't know how thick you bolts are that is the best I can tell you.

By the way I would never use slotted screws for something like the sprocket. At the bare minimum I would use phillips head screw, but a socket head screw would be better here.
 
Proper machine work LOL. Just use a chamfer bit in a electric drill, and use allen head chamfer screws. I've done several like this with no problems.
 
wayne z said:
Proper machine work LOL. Just use a chamfer bit in a electric drill, and use allen head chamfer screws. I've done several like this with no problems.
Click to expand...
The OP stated that he doesn't have access to a vice. That leads me to believe he doesn't have the other tools necessary to do the work. I do not advise people to take on a task I feel they might not be equipped to handle either in tools or skill. If he doesn't know the proper use of a countersink he may well ruin his sprocket.

Under the circumstances bending the brake arm is still his best alternative.

Tom
 
wayne z said:
Proper machine work LOL. Just use a chamfer bit in a electric drill, and use allen head chamfer screws. I've done several like this with no problems.
Click to expand...

True you could do it this way just don't over do the depth of them and keep the drill as straight as you can. A drill press would make it much easier to do, but a electric hand drill will work. Also use a little oil on the tip of the chamfer bit.
 
Bend the break arm it is.
@2door your right my tool supply is limited, I googled machince shops and a few came up, ill check them out. Ill keep you guys posted.
Thanks for the replies.
 
Problem solved. I went to this wood shop by my house and asked the guy working there if he could help me out with my issue. He was really helpful and took care of the issue. Took less the 2 minutes to do. I asked him how much, he said don't worry about it, and if I needed to bend it some more he'll be there Friday.
 
It worked out. the only thing i had to do after was grind down the sprocket hole so it would clear the dust cap. but as far as the break arm everything is smooth.
 
Thank you for the follow-up report.

We hope you enjoy the bike and we're here for you if you have any further problems.

Tom
 
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