Clutch stays engaged

P

Philip Justice

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Phil Here. Please Help. Purchased a 66/80 Silver Horse fro Bike Berry 2 Months ago, [I have not run the engine yet.] Installed it on a BTR retro yesterday. The bike does not free wheel with the two chains hooked up and adjusted perfect. I had the chain sprocket cover off to install the drive chain and re installed the cover. The clutch arm is now very loose and I don't think the clutch is disengaging. when I had the cover off and I noticed a small rod about a 1 1/8" long fell out, I re-installed it. I have read that there also should be a small steel ball or Ball Bering that might have fallen out and gotten lost.

Now no matter how I turn the loose fitting arm on the drive gear cover I can not get the bike to free wheel without the engine turning. I don't know how I am going to peddle my bike with this problem. I should tell you that I don"t have my Clutch cable and Lever installed yet but I don't think that matters at this time?

If the problem is as simple as the little ball getting lost? Please let me know where to get a replacement or what size Ball Bering it is? If you guy's think it is something else? I would appreciate any suggestions you might have.

I hope I don't get lost on this site and not get any of your reply's? I would also say that I would appreciate some Email fixes for my problem

[email protected] Thanks in advance, Phil Justice
 
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The "ball bearing" is a critical part and MUST be there. Also until you have the clutch cable installed and adjusted correctly the clutch will always be 'engaged'.

Here is a good tutorial on the proper way to adjust the clutch cable and clutch. Follow it and do not play with the flower nut until the cable is installed and adjusted.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726

Tom
 
Phil Here , Thanks 2 door. Where do I get one of those little ball [clutch actuator bearing] Or can I get a right size ball Bearing locally? What size is it?

Please correct me if I am wrong? But can't I move the arm on the housing after I install the ball bearing to disengage the clutch?

Thanks again Phil Justice
 
Phil,
The ball beraing is 8mm or a 5/16" ball bearing will work.
The internal clutch spring is much stronger than most new builders expect it to be. The clutch actuator arm can be moved inward by hand but it takes a lot of force. New engines are typically stiffer than ones with a few miles on them.

Wrap the arm with a rag and you'll find that you can indeed push it in far enough to disengage the clutch. Once you have the cable installed and adjusted correctly the rear wheel should spin free with the clutch disengaged.

Also, you need to lubricate the cam in the sprocket cover (clutch actuator cover) that steel pin, which is called a 'bucking bar' and the ball bearing. Use a good grade of bearing grease on those parts. You might also want to lubricate the clutch cable inside the housing. When you install the cable you want no sharp bends or kinks in it from the handlebar lever all the way to the engine.

There is a small diameter spring that is included with all engine kits. The instructions, if you got any, will tell you to install it between the cable end and the clutch actuator arm. Disregarde that and do not use the small spring. It serves no purpose and will only make the clutch harder to pull. Use the larger, 1/2" diameter spring. It is a heat shield to protect the cable from cylinder heat.

Tom
 
be sure to feel inside the hole with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver to be sure there isn't one still inside before putting in another
 
crassius said:
be sure to feel inside the hole with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver to be sure there isn't one still inside before putting in another
Click to expand...
Ditto:
The bucking bar should extend out from the center hole in the sprocket about 5/16 to 3/8".
If it doesn't, or goes in all the way the bearing is missing.

Tom
 
I've had new motors with the clutch plates stuck from sitting long while shipping - outer plate moves, but clutch is still stuck - a few taps with hammer usually frees it.
 
Phil Here, Thanks, guy's. All it took was a new ball bearing and a whack with the hammer and all is well with my clutch!

1915 Indian BTR Retro. Phil Justice
 

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Phil, we're glad we could help. Show us some more pictures of your bike. It appears to be an interesting project and I'm very impressed with your attention to detail and building talent on what we can see in that one photo.
Keep us posted.

Tom
 
Phil Here, Thanks again guy's. This build is my first BTR. I don"t know what I'm doing but when I'm finished it will be perfect. I have to depend on a lot of outside help with the welding and metal work. I am a 72 year old retired NYC Police officer with a lot of time on my hands. I started to build this bike for something to do in my spare time, In Fla.the bike can not be ridden on the streets with out many restrictions. I think I'll take it for a spin when it is finishedand maybe hang it on my motorhome for awhile when I travel. I will probably wind up selling it and start a new Bike,

My joy is to fabricate a nice machine and stand back and say "Phil,what a nice job you did "

I like the finished project, not the in-between look, I will post my finished retro 1915 Indian [or at least my version of it] on this Forum if you suggest what section to post it under?......................

1915 Indian BTR Phil Justice
 
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