Charging System For Lights

outlawbiker

outlawbiker

Member
sorry i had to make a post on this cause every thread i come across on the subject is killing my eyes from all the reading and eventually leading to a dead end to what i was looking for. ok here is the scoop,im building up an occ stingray for an everyday driver cause i lost my driving privileges. i get out at night for long hours (turn singnals,head light,brake and running lights is what i need to power) and i would like to incorporate an electrical charging system either from the magneto or by a alternator/generator that is off the engine,the bottle style,tire eating,bike generators is out of the question.

so,if any of you have figured out how to tap the magneto to charge a 6 to 12 volt motorcycle/lawnmower battery,please tell me how and what parts i need to buy from radio shack and how to wire it up,id greatly appreciate it. or if there is an engine available that i can fit on this bike that can do it,my original plan was to get an 80 cc cause it was affordable and seems to have enough punch for its dollar worth. thx for your time..trk
 
yeah,i looked at those,but the problem is that its not charging the system standing still,id have to be on the move for it to charge. thx for the advice tho
 
there is alot of stop and go traffic around here,i cant be expected to be on the gas all the time,thats unless if the ratio of power coming of the dynamic hub were enough to output more than the loss of used voltage of standing still to negotiate trafiic
 
A simple way would be to get a sealed 12 volt battery like fire alarm companies put in those emergency lights you see in apartment building hallways. Maybe even a shop in a pawn shop for a Dewalt pack and charger. That way you just plug it in every night and you will never have issues.
I have no doubt that you could power a nice LED setup for hours
 
i guess ill keep that option open,but for now im still trying to find a way to keep those batteries charged while the engine is running.
 
i may have over looked the possibility of the tire scrubber generators,that should create enough to trickle charge the battery while riding,or a dynamic hub like posted earlier. sorry guys,i just dont think to far outside of the box,i just had it in my mind i could of done this like a real motorcycle engines electrical system. but please don't stop posting your ideas and comments on this topic cause its really helping me think this all thru.
 
I'm in the process of designing a special engine ignition charging system for you folks.

To make it simple, there is NOT enough power available from the engine to charge a battery quickly AND run powerful Halogen lights at the exact same time.

There is enough power to slow-charge a battery and run LED lights however!

The key to make this work, you will have to ride with lights off in the day, so when night falls, you have a fully charged battery. In addition, to not rely on just the engine charging alone, you would still need a wall-charger for charging when you are parked at home, but a steady trickle charge from the engine will surely help in keeping the voltage up much longer.

You could still use Halogen lights too, but it will drain the battery faster than the engine can charge, so if you run the battery low, you can ride around on LED power for a while until it's charged enough to run the Halogen again.

I'll keep you posted on progress, as I hope to finish my prototype soon.
 
ZnsaneRyder said:
I'm in the process of designing a special engine ignition charging system for you folks.

To make it simple, there is NOT enough power available from the engine to charge a battery quickly AND run powerful Halogen lights at the exact same time.

There is enough power to slow-charge a battery and run LED lights however!

The key to make this work, you will have to ride with lights off in the day, so when night falls, you have a fully charged battery. In addition, to not rely on just the engine charging alone, you would still need a wall-charger for charging when you are parked at home, but a steady trickle charge from the engine will surely help in keeping the voltage up much longer.

You could still use Halogen lights too, but it will drain the battery faster than the engine can charge, so if you run the battery low, you can ride around on LED power for a while until it's charged enough to run the Halogen again.

I'll keep you posted on progress, as I hope to finish my prototype soon.
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do you know of a LED light system as bright as car/truck lights? if so can you link me,or tell me where to look? cause everything i see looks more or less like an LED flashlight with hardly any intensity,i was trying to do a hi beam/low beam deal cause i do have the actual motorcycle handle bar mounted switches (horn button,turn signals,hi/lo,ect) and its in a nice all together wire harness that i think will keep this build looking clean without wires all over the place.
 
That would be fantastic Ryder. I think most of us have a very hard time following some of the "white wire" threads and need to be spoon fed.
My question for you is, Can we use this to charge a 24 volt ebike? (2x12/14amp) I understand that I may have to charge one bat. at a time but it would be nice to use my electric to get out of the city, use my gas on the trails and paths and have fresh bats. for the trip home. What do you think?
 
toytime said:
That would be fantastic Ryder. I think most of us have a very hard time following some of the "white wire" threads and need to be spoon fed.
My question for you is, Can we use this to charge a 24 volt ebike? (2x12/14amp) I understand that I may have to charge one bat. at a time but it would be nice to use my electric to get out of the city, use my gas on the trails and paths and have fresh bats. for the trip home. What do you think?
Click to expand...

like a hybrid? the problem i see with that is so far from everything ive seen and been told right now about on this is there is not enough amp/watts off the magneto/dynamo hub/bike generator to replace what your already using for the system,in my case lights,which if got lights that didn't chew up lots of amps might be possible,but in my opinion i think those electric motors are gone take alot of juice.
maybe if while you were coasting with the motor turned off and using the gas engine only,the electric motor would turn in to a generator. but i also think when u use an electric motor like that to create electric it would also create resistance like a brake being dragged? thats my thoughts,but then again,ive never worked on these motors before and i dont know how they work entirely.
 
ok,i just got back from my local ace hardware pricing out the stuff i need to build a springer front end,on the way back i stopped over at honda to see what they have to offer in the form of a rectifier,and i came across a honda goldwing alternator that is the size of a softball roughly and looks like it can be mounted with a little bit a of fabrication. 100% New Honda Goldwing Alternator OE Hitachi
yes the price maybe steep for a new or rebuilt one,but i might just go to a motorcycle junk yard or find one cheaper. hope maybe this helps some of us out there looking for a 12 volt solution. if anyone has any thoughts please let me know.

oh,also the guy at honda showed me a rectifier that looks like it might work for the magneto wires,but im nervous to shell out 50 to 100 dollars for one if its going to rob power to the plug and or fry out the system. but at least they are availble :)
 
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toytime said:
That would be fantastic Ryder. I think most of us have a very hard time following some of the "white wire" threads and need to be spoon fed.
My question for you is, Can we use this to charge a 24 volt ebike? (2x12/14amp) I understand that I may have to charge one bat. at a time but it would be nice to use my electric to get out of the city, use my gas on the trails and paths and have fresh bats. for the trip home. What do you think?
Click to expand...

Maybe I could design one that steps up the voltage to 24V, but IMO it will charge the batteries very slowly, because when you increase voltage, you reduce amperage, because the max watts stays the same.
 
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