36 Volts Through A 24 Volt Motor?

G

grouchyolfart

New Member
Okay, so I've been reading other forums also. :o Being that I didn't sign up for any of them, I thought I'd ask here.

Someone has a "24 volt" brushed hub motor like the ones we've been using. According to the thread, some have been using up to 48+ volt battery packs with the 24 volt hub. This particular person is running a 36 volt SLA pack with his 24 volt hub.

So my question is, what do I need to do to be able to run a 36 volt battery pack with my 24 volt hub motor? Seems the hub motor runs fine with the higher voltage, but was wondering about the controller and throttle. Do I need to change these out for 36 volt units? Will it work with a 48 volt controller and throttle? These guys are getting up to 10 mph more speed by using bigger battery packs and I thought the option sounded pretty good. If it's workable, I'm going to switch motors and put the hub on my bike. :D
 
It seems too risky for me to try it. I'd to 36v change the entire system to 36v.
48v controller wont work for anything less than 48v. Because when the controller sees there is not enough voltage it shuts down to protect batteries. Is my understanding. I accidentally blew my 24v controller I was thinking I could by a 48v one for future upgrades but it don't work that way.
 
I ran a 36 volt battery pack through a 24 volt motor and it burned the wiring up. I did the same on a hub and it wouldnt do anything. the controller shut it down.
 
I went out to test ride my improved 350 slow pusher bike and it won't go. The electric motor is frozen. Probably too much heat from trying to run pulling hills with not much help from me. I'm trying to decide now what to do.

I would love to pick up a 500 watt motor for my fast pusher setup. Then move the 350 from it to the slow pusher. Then move all that to a full size bike. Try to cut down on the problems associated with not enough pedal help from me as well. I have a 350 watt controller on the way so I guess I will rig it for the slow bike and get a larger one for the fast bike.

Back to ebay I suppose.
 
Okay. So being that the motor can handle 36 volts, it'd be a good idea to change out the controller and throttle to 36 volt units as well. Makes sense to me. OR........just keep things simple and quit messing around with what ain't broke. :D.....which makes even more sense. ;) Thanks fellas. (^)
 
deacon said:
I went out to test ride my improved 350 slow pusher bike and it won't go. The electric motor is frozen. Probably too much heat from trying to run pulling hills with not much help from me. I'm trying to decide now what to do.

I would love to pick up a 500 watt motor for my fast pusher setup. Then move the 350 from it to the slow pusher. Then move all that to a full size bike. Try to cut down on the problems associated with not enough pedal help from me as well. I have a 350 watt controller on the way so I guess I will rig it for the slow bike and get a larger one for the fast bike.

Back to ebay I suppose.
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I find that amazing that with only 350 watts you are able to pull hills so well, even if you did burn it out. A small gas engine struggles a bit, but even having more HP. Gotta love the torque of the electric motors!

It must be a very neat bike pusher. I wish I had electric on mine, but I gotta find a better source for batteries and a motor.

Have you considered mounting a temp probe on the motor to monitor temperature?
 
ZnsaneRyder said:
I find that amazing that with only 350 watts you are able to pull hills so well, even if you did burn it out. A small gas engine struggles a bit, but even having more HP. Gotta love the torque of the electric motors!

It must be a very neat bike pusher. I wish I had electric on mine, but I gotta find a better source for batteries and a motor.

Have you considered mounting a temp probe on the motor to monitor temperature?
Click to expand...

Electric motors don't have power curve. It more like a plateau. Its at max power all the time. You decide how how much power to give it with controller. Unlike gas to have to stay in the rpm's sweet spot.
 
the day before I burned out the slow pusher motor I had two 350 watt motors and pushers one slow one fast. Just before I burned up the motor I ordered a 350watt controller on line. It was cheap on ebay.

Then the motor blew giving me an excuse to get a 450 watt motor on ebay so now I have a 350 watt fast pusher and a 350 watt controller on the way. But I also have a 450 motor on the way. So now I guess I will get a bigger controller and just move the 350 watt motor to the old wheel.

I have a lot of bike parts laying around at the moment, so I'm going to build a couple of pure pedal bikes for my grandson and me to ride on the bike trail. My wife wants me to get a bike carrier for the car so she can drive us to the trail. She is all hot for me to teach him about life for some reason. Probably because his mom and dad are turning him into a materialistic wimp. Since he is too small to ride a real bike his education will have to wait. LOL.
 
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I have to buy a new controller for the hub motor and I'm going to bite the bullet when I do and put a 36volt controller on the hub. I can get one on ebay and its the same price as the 24 volt. It might take me a while to get around to it, but I'm going to give it a shot I think.
 
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My mind works in mysterious ways these days. I gave some thought to two things today. One buy a 4cycle scooter and two repair the hub motor. Well I still am kicking the repair around but the scooter is out of the question now. It isn't the money mama said buy it and buy a new one from a real dealer.

I did some looking at them on line and they are just too much like toys. Tiny little wheels and all that. I would prefer a bike with a motor of some kind. I think I am just spoiled.

So I went out to ride my latest pusher bike and that little tinkle I heard since I finished it turned out to be bearing noise after all. Yes the wheel froze on me. I tried to go back to my scooter wheel but the sprocket got warped when I removed it from the bike wheel. Besides you should never go back.

I have decided to try to build a friction drive that is electric,.. I tried before by trying to invent a drive wheel from scratch. This time I am going to use the rear wheel from a scooter as a drive for the bike. At least I think I am. I have some other ideas as well.

I might build a bob tail trailer to carry the batteries so they are lower. I'm thinking maybe a small lawn mower wheel as a wheel for it. Of course I do have a ton and a half of scooter wheels I could use as well. Whatever works best is what I will do. The trick is I can only rebuild bikes now to more new bikes. lol... I hate that I can't break this habit.
 
I have the 36v controller for the hubber on the way from hong kong. A couple of weeks at least

This is what is bugging me now. I have two 24v pusher motors. They are the currie type motors. I have been reading that the motor can be over powered. Actually they tell me their bikes are actually run with 250watt motors somehow rated at 400 watts. I have no idea what that is all about but, I am going to put one of the currie motors I have up to 36v.

I have a 350watt 24v motor with a cheap controller and then I have a 500watt 24v with a really heavy duty controller that I bought from tvc.

I think I am going to push 36v through the cheap controller from hong kong first. If it burns up, I will move the 500w controller to that bike and buy a 36v 800 watt controller from tnc. Now it's just a matter of taking the risk.

If my calculations are correct, it will push the 500watt motor up to 750watts or thereabouts anyway. If the controller on the 350 doesn't burn up it should run at a little under 500 watts. The last time I over powered one of these motors it burned the wiring maybe a controller will prevent that from happening. I will make darn sure I have a fuse in line before I try it.

Actually I'm just doing this from curiosity since I am pretty much satisfied with the speeds of the bikes I have now. Still why not see what will happen.
 
I'm back from the first test of a 24v setup running 36v.... I decided not to go with the cheap controller but to try the beefed up one from tnc. Tnc also has a 36v 800watt controller for just a few bucks more so I would get it if going from scratch,

I ran the bike about a block and it stopped. Of course I cursed it for a while then found a loose wire. I rewired it and all it did was hum. I found the chain had jumped off. I rode the bike half a mile and the chain came off again so I pulled it in and took a couple of links out of the chain. I haven't tested it yet but I find no reason to doubt that it will work.

However I do not know the long term effect on either the motor or the controller. I am pushing the excess through a 500 watt motor so it acts even stronger. If I can keep the speed down to the point that I can pedal assist, I can probably get some decent range on it as well.

I'll keep you guys informed. I am still running my econo bike at 24v. I use it to ride to and from the park for my morning walks. I really want to keep it simple so if they rip me off they dont get too much.
 
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