I have my engine tilted back about 17 degrees and so I modified the carb manifold so the fuel bowl in the carb had the float work correctly.
It is an 80202-0430 70's era Briggs and Stratton side shaft 3hp 4 stroke engine.
I fill it slightly less, just 5 ounces of oil as it is tilted back. The baffles still are allowing oil to get into the breather and the hose connection to the paper air filter wet it a while of riding. A foam filter you can clean and some varieties actually have you oil them and ring out purposely. The paper filter if oily is garbage.
My carb made by Briggs only works with the paper air filter, otherwise it would not idle well. I got the air filter box that is meant for the carb and am using the breather connection back to the air filter as normal.
I know older Briggs engines just vented to outside air, but that may get you in trouble with CARB (California).
Since the splash fork on the bottom of the connecting rod goes though more of the oil bath toward the rear of the engine crankcase I felt it safe to do.
I did think that there could be some oil getting through the valve, but the only thing that had me thinking that it was really bad was when the probably original valve from the 70's was stuck open. A new one I though was the fix.
It worked fine and then I noticed the oil on the paper filter when it was smokey again. With engine braking down hill at a fast speed and then throttle applied there was a lag with the oil wet filter. Replacing that fixed it, it sometimes happens again and the oil is starting to wet the filter again.
I verified the breather valve is working correctly as a one way valve.
My option short of major change in how the big size engine could fit my bike frame, I am to raise the height by about 5 inches higher where the breather valve sits. I would make a hose connection from where it is now. The hose would go straight up and then connect to the breather and the the output as usual would go the the connection at the air filter.
My though is that the higher level where the breather would sit would equate to the oil not getting high up enough to get into the valve, pass though, and then not ever get back in the sump. To change how the baffles are configured is a much more difficult way I would suppose.
I wonder if this could work?
Its a thought anyway, and would require some custom way of making the connection to the area where the breather would other wise normally be. An old breather I could just remove the valve components.
The higher up location for where the breather would then be needing an input hose connection. I would have to make a fabrication for the input that would switch it from the normally rectangle shape with the gasket and modify it so it is a hose connection.
Another manufacturer breather valve I might go with if easier to do.
Anyone have this problem and fixed it somehow? This is what I thinking of so far.
MT
It is an 80202-0430 70's era Briggs and Stratton side shaft 3hp 4 stroke engine.
I fill it slightly less, just 5 ounces of oil as it is tilted back. The baffles still are allowing oil to get into the breather and the hose connection to the paper air filter wet it a while of riding. A foam filter you can clean and some varieties actually have you oil them and ring out purposely. The paper filter if oily is garbage.
My carb made by Briggs only works with the paper air filter, otherwise it would not idle well. I got the air filter box that is meant for the carb and am using the breather connection back to the air filter as normal.
I know older Briggs engines just vented to outside air, but that may get you in trouble with CARB (California).
Since the splash fork on the bottom of the connecting rod goes though more of the oil bath toward the rear of the engine crankcase I felt it safe to do.
I did think that there could be some oil getting through the valve, but the only thing that had me thinking that it was really bad was when the probably original valve from the 70's was stuck open. A new one I though was the fix.
It worked fine and then I noticed the oil on the paper filter when it was smokey again. With engine braking down hill at a fast speed and then throttle applied there was a lag with the oil wet filter. Replacing that fixed it, it sometimes happens again and the oil is starting to wet the filter again.
I verified the breather valve is working correctly as a one way valve.
My option short of major change in how the big size engine could fit my bike frame, I am to raise the height by about 5 inches higher where the breather valve sits. I would make a hose connection from where it is now. The hose would go straight up and then connect to the breather and the the output as usual would go the the connection at the air filter.
My though is that the higher level where the breather would sit would equate to the oil not getting high up enough to get into the valve, pass though, and then not ever get back in the sump. To change how the baffles are configured is a much more difficult way I would suppose.
I wonder if this could work?
Its a thought anyway, and would require some custom way of making the connection to the area where the breather would other wise normally be. An old breather I could just remove the valve components.
The higher up location for where the breather would then be needing an input hose connection. I would have to make a fabrication for the input that would switch it from the normally rectangle shape with the gasket and modify it so it is a hose connection.
Another manufacturer breather valve I might go with if easier to do.
Anyone have this problem and fixed it somehow? This is what I thinking of so far.
MT
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