Please Help Me Mount My Titan

GoldenMotor.com

Smoothe

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
201
1
0
Phoenix, AZ
Howdy folks. I'm biulding a Micargi Stealth cruiser with a Super Titan and the Dac 3.25:1 Gearbox. The engine sticks out too far on the left when bolted on the motor mount plate. I have it as far to the right as possible.

One thing I'm considering is using a metal plate bolted on top of the motor mount plate that will stick out further to the right. Kind of a 'ledge' thing if you get my drift. The engine needs to come forward a bit too.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
 

buzbikebklyn1

New Member
Jun 3, 2009
207
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0
Brooklyn N.Y.
Thats not to big a problem.
How far over to the right and forward do you need to go?
Will the gear drive clear the plate?
Will moving it forward give you any exhaust mounting problems?
I'm assuming you are using the standard slotted 4 stroke mounting plate that bolts to both the down tube and seat tube...
If so then your probably using wide cranks as well, that's good.
First do a mock up of were you want the engine with gear box and exhaust pipe to sit and use some kind of clamps to hold it perfectly square to the chain rings and so that the output shaft lines up with the drive cog(chain and gears) or sheath (belt).
Ensure that every thing clears first... before you start drilling.
Measure twice drill once(heck, I must measure stuff 100 times, call me anal)

Then mark were the motor plate(or offset plate) where it needs to be drilled for the new mounting bolt pattern.
Make sure the new engine location does not interfere with the peddle arch or the exhaust pipe routing, 4 strokes are easier than 2 strokes exhaust wise, they have no expansion chamber to locate safely and securely.
I then make a template off of the original mounting holes on the engine so I can square it up perfectly with out the engine in place on final mock up.
No second adapter plate should needed, unless the off set is more than 1/2 inch... then you have more problems than just engine location.
Hopes this saves you some time.
Keep em shiny side up
BBB
 
Last edited:

buzbikebklyn1

New Member
Jun 3, 2009
207
0
0
Brooklyn N.Y.
Ok Smoothe, I see your problem.
From the series of 5 thumbnail pics you posted I see 2 small problems with the front lower mounts on both sides (pic 5)
#1-The right front is directly over were the frame mount meets the motor-plate. http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...please-help-me-mount-my-titan-picture-042.jpg
#2- The left side of the motor looks like its sitting directly over the frame tube. http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...please-help-me-mount-my-titan-picture-038.jpg
No big deal-
This can be fabricated several ways, I'll just give you the sturdiest, most practical, and least expensive way with out having to do to much fab work.

A few things you have to do first.
#1- Mount the drive line and rear drive sprocket on the left side of the bike so you can mock it up and make sure the out put shaft/chain/sprocket are all going to line up and clear the frame and rear tire, in the engines desired position.
#2-Does every thing line up? if not don't worry, there are off set sprockets that will help you align the drive chain.
#3-Does the chain clear the frame and tire?
Over sized tires or a fat chain might give you problems.

#4- This one you can fudge a tiny bit... exhaust routing, it might help you to know what pipe your gonna use. With this style of bike a long head pipe and a rear mounted muffler (poo poo pipe) would fit nicely, it will also give you more torque.

If all those things work out your golden... if not... we fix it.

You are going to mount the motor to the plate, then mount the plate to the frame mounts...

#1- after your drive line mock up is PERFECT, mark the plate by using a paint marker so you will always know exactly were the motor belongs, I would use large jaw welding clamps or "C" clamps to hold the motor EXACTLY in place, a little slip now WILL mess you up later so don't rush it.
#2- make a template of the bottom of the motor using some sturdy card board, trace the entire bottom of the motor, and then cut it out and tape it to the motor and mark the 4 mounting holes... BE CAREFUL! make sure there all on center.
#3- Ok here's the trick part, now lay the template directly over the tracing that you did on the motor plate, check its location several times, tape it in place, making sure you have it exactly were you want it cause now your going to start center punching your bolt centers, again, measuse it 100 times if you have to cause the next step requires a special drilling technique called counter sinking or beveling, and neatness counts!

#4- We are going to use flat headed machine screws to mount the motor to the plate from the underside.
Take the motor and plate with you to a good hardware supplier, one that has good quality bolts that will fit and are the right length. Get the bolts first, remember these new bolts will be going a bit deeper into the motor because of the counter sinking, make sure they arent to long, as that can crack an engine mount or case.
Once these bolts are tightened they will be almost flush with the bottom of the plate, and they will sit right over that front frame mount no problem.
(as matter of fact the new bolts location will insure they cant shake loose and drop out)

#5- first drill out the smaller diamiter of the bolts shaft. it can be a little bit of a tight fit around the bolts.
Check them all makeing sure there on center and go into the engine easily.
if so then select a larger drill bit, compare the tip of the drill bit to the bevel on the underside of the bolt head, and see that its a close match, a tiny bit bigger than the bolt head is fine.

#6- Now flip the plate over, you should see 4 nice neat holes... GENTLY, rest the tip of the drill bit in the hole and make sure your holding the drill perpendicular to the work piece, SLOWLY drill a bevel into the hole but DO NOT GO THRU IT! I use a drill press for this but it can be done by hand.
Now test fit the bolt, does the head sit neatly in your new bevel? if not drill a tiny bit more until the sit flush as possible, now do the other 3 SLOWLY! its always better to have to take small incerments at a time.

#7- I use a little blue loc tite on each bolt and use a hair drier to dry them first, this does 2 things, first, it acts as anti sieze for the steel bolt going into the aluminum cases, second, it locks the bolts to guard against viberateing loose at a bad moment.
Now bolt your engine to its plate using a nice criss cross pattern DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! be carefull, go slow.
Now bolt your motor plate combo to the frame mounts!
I know im being an old lady abouy going slow and being carefull but the time you spend doing it right now will be time and cost saved from having to do it again.
I hope this helps, hit me back with any questions.
Good luck
BBB
 

Smoothe

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
201
1
0
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks Buz, that would be the best thing to do. Afriend of mine who I work with sometimes has all of the tools to do this with and said he'll help me anytime.
As soon as I get my sprocket back from the powdercoater I will do a full mockup.