Update:
I have mounted the switch on the brake handle and connected the cord by soldering.
The battery case has not arrived yet.
I also need to get a large diameter size piece of heat shrink to go over the switch and will fill that with silicone and then shrink that to add water resistance.
Here is the state of the switch. The screws are just two that were in the parts box and may be replaced with nicer screws when I go to the hardware store to get the heat shrink. Although they work fine they are used and abused.
I chose to solder the wires on. I have been working with the idea of vibration issues so I am aiming at beefing up all the things I do so they last physically.
The "stop" I used was a harddrive mount piece. It has a short screw end that is perfect and then it also accepts a screw so it will be possible to add a cover that will shield the switch when the handle is relaxed. It's would be a protection for the armature and I'll give that some thought.
Oh I used taps to thread the holes and to get solid grips on small things like short screws I recommend using taps too. A tap is a drill bit like thing that cuts threads into metal for screws and bolts. We must drill a hole with a drill bit a size smaller and then we make threads and cut it to an exact size of the screw.
I have the armature pressed solidly against the stop and i picked the roller style because I liked that style but the simpler paddle style may offer more utility over time. We shall see.
It is wise to check that things work before we make the effort to install and I test after the major things like threading screws through the plastic case and soldering.
A multimeter is a tool I keep in my toolbox. I am using the OHMS setting to test continuity and non-continuity of the switch. I propped the handle open with a drill bit to test that when the handle is pulled the circuit is closed ( electrons flow to the light ) and tested that when the handle is relaxed that the circuit is open ( electrons are stopped from flowing ).
It's wise to check each step so we can prove the functioning of things as we go.
The switch has three "pins" one is the common (common to both the other two pins) and of the other two one is closed when the switched is pressed and open when it's not and the other is open when the switched is pressed and closed when it is not. These two are called Normally Open and Normally Closed respectively. That refers to electron flow or not.
Okay so this is not complete yet but it's a big part of the system.
For those doing this we want to have screws and parts that do not stick down into the brake handle area. We only want to use the shell so it's important to look at the total thickness of switch and the brake pulley shell.
I'll wire in the batteries when the case gets here and I believe I have a major supply of used camera batteries to go through. I saved them for remote control units and now I have another use. This is a simple LED circuit so it will make use of batteries the camera is finished with.
So ahead! Power and final assembly of the switch unit with heat shrink and silicone.
I have mounted the switch on the brake handle and connected the cord by soldering.
The battery case has not arrived yet.
I also need to get a large diameter size piece of heat shrink to go over the switch and will fill that with silicone and then shrink that to add water resistance.
Here is the state of the switch. The screws are just two that were in the parts box and may be replaced with nicer screws when I go to the hardware store to get the heat shrink. Although they work fine they are used and abused.
I chose to solder the wires on. I have been working with the idea of vibration issues so I am aiming at beefing up all the things I do so they last physically.
The "stop" I used was a harddrive mount piece. It has a short screw end that is perfect and then it also accepts a screw so it will be possible to add a cover that will shield the switch when the handle is relaxed. It's would be a protection for the armature and I'll give that some thought.
Oh I used taps to thread the holes and to get solid grips on small things like short screws I recommend using taps too. A tap is a drill bit like thing that cuts threads into metal for screws and bolts. We must drill a hole with a drill bit a size smaller and then we make threads and cut it to an exact size of the screw.
I have the armature pressed solidly against the stop and i picked the roller style because I liked that style but the simpler paddle style may offer more utility over time. We shall see.
It is wise to check that things work before we make the effort to install and I test after the major things like threading screws through the plastic case and soldering.
A multimeter is a tool I keep in my toolbox. I am using the OHMS setting to test continuity and non-continuity of the switch. I propped the handle open with a drill bit to test that when the handle is pulled the circuit is closed ( electrons flow to the light ) and tested that when the handle is relaxed that the circuit is open ( electrons are stopped from flowing ).
It's wise to check each step so we can prove the functioning of things as we go.
The switch has three "pins" one is the common (common to both the other two pins) and of the other two one is closed when the switched is pressed and open when it's not and the other is open when the switched is pressed and closed when it is not. These two are called Normally Open and Normally Closed respectively. That refers to electron flow or not.
Okay so this is not complete yet but it's a big part of the system.
For those doing this we want to have screws and parts that do not stick down into the brake handle area. We only want to use the shell so it's important to look at the total thickness of switch and the brake pulley shell.
I'll wire in the batteries when the case gets here and I believe I have a major supply of used camera batteries to go through. I saved them for remote control units and now I have another use. This is a simple LED circuit so it will make use of batteries the camera is finished with.
So ahead! Power and final assembly of the switch unit with heat shrink and silicone.
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