stretch cruiser motor mount problems

WUTS UP EVERYONE !

this is my first build a STRETCH MICARGI MUSTANG GTS. well she looks preety but she is as problematic as can be ,the main problem is the motor mounts they are totally wrong for this bike in my opinion. (sbp engine mounts) and I am NOT SAYING that SBP is junk or tryin to give em a bad rep ,it just doesn't work for the stretch bikes is all. but i would appreciate any feed back that i can get regarding a solution for the mounts . here are a few pics of the bike and i will get some pics of the problem posted here very soon .

From what I can tell you need to raise the engine. How much room is there between the seat tube and the jack shaft? By the looks of the carb you're going to need to come forward with the motor before you can go up any.

It looks as if the drive chain (chain ring to drive wheel) is really loose on the top. If you're not committed to mounting the shift kit to the seat post I woud try and move the motor up and forward. That will give you some clearence and some angles rather than a straight line of chain.

If you add a tensioner to the engine side like you mentioned on the phone.... will that allow the chain to clear the frame near the front of the tire? Its looks like it is resting on it now. I think a tensioner would push it down even farther.

Here's a link to the other build I was talking about. He is using a shift kit but he has the motor mounted higher in the frame allowing the chain to travel under the motor rather than along side.
http://motorbicycling.com/f40/san-diego-stretch-cruiser-9403-2.html

RedB66 said:

From what I can tell you need to raise the engine. How much room is there between the seat tube and the jack shaft? By the looks of the carb you're going to need to come forward with the motor before you can go up any.

It looks as if the drive chain (chain ring to drive wheel) is really loose on the top. If you're not committed to mounting the shift kit to the seat post I woud try and move the motor up and forward. That will give you some clearence and some angles rather than a straight line of chain.

If you add a tensioner to the engine side like you mentioned on the phone.... will that allow the chain to clear the frame near the front of the tire? Its looks like it is resting on it now. I think a tensioner would push it down even farther.

Here's a link to the other build I was talking about. He is using a shift kit but he has the motor mounted higher in the frame allowing the chain to travel under the motor rather than along side.
http://motorbicycling.com/f40/san-diego-stretch-cruiser-9403-2.html

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how's it going red i found some handle bar risers that actually fit the diameter of the bottom frame tube on my bike here's the link TwistedThrottle.com : Handlebar risers barbacks (BMW R1200GS & HP2, KTM LC4 & LC8 models with fatbars, & other bikes with 28mm-diameter bars) - ROX.3R-P2PP , i was thinking they could probably be modified for engine mounts or used in chain tensioners with little modification aswell.

but i really like the tensioners that are on the Maxvision's San Diego Stretch Cruiser, i think that application would work for me, and would probably eliminate the need for different motor mounts. only problem i have is i dont have a welder or know how to weld . so im just stuck right there
but i'm determined to find a solution and will not give up DAMMIT!

and to answer your question regarding the drive chain from crank to tire the chain just hovers over the top of the bottom rear stays , which i think would require a dual tensioner that i once seen for sale on E-BAY it would push & pull the chain in either direction that you needed . but as always when you find yourself in need of such things they're no where to be found .

OH BTW maybe you could find a use for something like this on one of your projects Chrome finish plastic left accessory control.
SAVAGE

just wanted to post a link that i found in search of " CHROME " left and right side controls for the motorbikes Throttle and Grip and here's another site, http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=102400 it turn out the second link has the same chrome controls for HALF THE PRICE! so shop wise people

ITS A SHAMELESS PLUG, I KNOW! but if anyone benefits from the use of the links then its worth it!

This is the first Install of motor and SBP shift kit to a stretch I have seen , its bound to be a tricky build , peronally I would try as mentioned to attach the front mount to the front down tube and place above the chain wheel , then you need to make up a rear mount , and you need to incorporate the adjustment for the jackshaft chain/s , best of luck.

simonjohnwilmer said:

This is the first Install of motor and SBP shift kit to a stretch I have seen , its bound to be a tricky build , peronally I would try as mentioned to attach the front mount to the front down tube and place above the chain wheel , then you need to make up a rear mount , and you need to incorporate the adjustment for the jackshaft chain/s , best of luck.

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trust me when i tell you IT IS A PAIN IN THE AZZ to try and pull off. where i have it mounted is not the ideal place for the chinagurl and shift kit. but, i might have a solution to all the chain slappin and chain tension problems im having i think if i buy a offset intake i can get some room for vertical height adjustment and then i can pretty much toss the old motor mounts and start over, then incorporating one of REDB66 motor mount designs and that will solve my issues with the shift kit. SO ,its off to the drawing board to make the mounts . with any luck ill have em done this weekend!

just a quick post on a site you can go to ,to find billet clamps and the rubber reducer collars to take up the slack in between the clamps and the frame tube. Dune Buggy Parts, Rhino Parts, Kawasaki Parts, Polaris Ranger/RZR Parts
they have alot of neat and interesting items for you DIY'ers .

Savage,
My thoughts.... Mount the engine utilizing the front mount, all the way forward,, get a 1 or 1.125" say...14grage welded seam pipe approx 3' long, bring pipe to fab shop, have them radius roll it so you can weld it on to the bottom tube and utilize that tube for your rear engine mount, bring tube back (apply coolness here) to the seat down tube and weld it there, sure there will be an extra tube in there, but you can make a template that flows with the bike lines and it will look way cool, the engine will be firmly mounted and you get to have something that looks a bit different, paint the new tube whatever color you choose, you will have to install a stationary chain guide about 1/2 down the bike, the shift kit will be able to mount to this new tube installed. Hope that helps

Mac

Savage, Nice Build, Looks Great. I Don`t Remember Seeing A Derailer On A Stretch Either. I Have 2 Stretches To Build. Where Are You At Now On The Build?? Have You Changed Much? Post A Pic Asap. I Have Some Good Ideas For You. Ron

NEAT TIMES said:

Savage, Nice Build, Looks Great. I Don`t Remember Seeing A Derailer On A Stretch Either. I Have 2 Stretches To Build. Where Are You At Now On The Build?? Have You Changed Much? Post A Pic Asap. I Have Some Good Ideas For You. Ron

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SUP NEAT TIMES, actually the derailer came from a donor mountain bike, and so did the rims. at present i find my self waiting for a set of REDB66 MOTOR MOUNTS, like the ones on his ORANGE CRUSH. but i have added a few other items to the bike like a set of speakers and a am/fm radio with aux. input for a mp3 player, and i bought a alarm just for grins and giggles,but still haven't mounted it yet still working out where to mount it on the bike. OH BTW i was able to get CHROME CONTROLS left/right side , and i mounted my billet torpedo throttle grips im waiting for a few more parts to trickle in for the motor mounts and some billet brake cable holders. but i know im still not done i still have to buy some SS BRAIDED CABLE HOUSING,to try and hide all the cables. but if you have some ideas please feel free to mention them i'm all ears buddy. and ill try and post some pics of the bike after i remount the engine to the frame at present the bike is kinda bare without the chinagurl .