Wal-Mart bike

[Newbikers]

question.

should i use the rail that came with the universal motor mount
picture below

or could i be ok not using it like shown below?

i'm trying to lower the engine some to get rid of chain rubbing

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Is that seriously a universal mount nowadays? It's just an exhaust clamp.

 

[MarkSumpter]

Is that seriously a universal mount nowadays? It's just an exhaust clamp.

Yea that is what they are selling for $15...

@NewBikt

Better use that backing clamp and get a 1/2 section of steel tube under the front it looks like you are already compressing and cutting into the aluminum frame tubing in this image:

 

[Newbikers]

Yea that is what they are selling for $15...

@NewBikt

Better use that backing clamp and get a 1/2 section of steel tube under the front it looks like you are already compressing and cutting into the aluminum frame tubing in this image:

nah just scratched the paint lol

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Well, remember - where you see it scratching the paint, that's alllllll the force of that tightened u bolt on a very small surface area on the frame. Not only that, it's being torqued when you accelerate. I would suggest using the bit that came with it - if not more.

 

[MarkSumpter]

Well, remember - where you see it scratching the paint, that's alllllll the force of that tightened u bolt on a very small surface area on the frame. Not only that, it's being torqued when you accelerate. I would suggest using the bit that came with it - if not more.

Several of us told him to back up the U bolt in the beginning of this thread especially since this is an aluminum frame to no avail apparently. It sure looks compressed to me... What you think Goat?

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Well, it's really tough to tell from a pic, I'd be lying if I said definitely one way or another. But what he needs to remember is that a larger amount of surface area especially on an aluminum means that the torque will disperse across more of the frame.

What I would do is this.

Take one of the stock brackets and drill the holes out bigger. Then put that between the part of the universal mount that you're not using and the frame. Last, get two high quality straight bolts and bolt straight to it. Even the exhaust clamp isn't great, which is why you want to lay those brackets there so they are what gets compressed, not your frame.

If the paint is going, the frame is next. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure - that has never been truer than in motorized bicycling.

 

[flybytaco]

too bad you live so far away i would just weld you up a new mount.

 

[Newbikers]

Frame is not being compressed i have calipers to check

reason paint on top is scratched is because the mount is sharp as ****
not the u part but the top part it has 2 knife like rests that scratch the paint when i take it on and off
not to mention it does not fit the frame properly
its to small so when you tighten it it has to strech over the frame

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

It has to "stretch over the frame"? If I'm hearing you right, you're saying that your aluminum bike is strong enough to "stretch" the steel automotive exhaust mount u bolt?

Not to be controversial, but to just be honest with what I'm thinking.

 

[Newbikers]

It has to "stretch over the frame"? If I'm hearing you right, you're saying that your aluminum bike is strong enough to "stretch" the steel automotive exhaust mount u bolt?

Not to be controversial, but to just be honest with what I'm thinking.

i dont think the aluminum is but the paint sure took a nice gouge from it
thats the way the kit came from sick bike parts tho.

and it's not the Ubolt

it's the frame adapter top part

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/Universal front mount.pdf

Notes on aluminum frames

As was mentioned previously the U-bolt does not offer enough surface area to
provide adequate support for aluminum frames. Here are a few options.

1. You can drill out the holes on your old mounting strap the same diameter
as the U-bolt. You can then use it to add extra support to U-bolt. The stock
strap can only be use on tube sizes 1 1/8 to 1 ½ inches.

2. You can also add a small strip of steel to increase the surface area of the
U-bolt. Pictured here is some steel pallet banding strap that can be had for
free at any warehouse that ships large pallets.
The strip should never go more than half way around your tube or it will
interfere with the other side of the clamp. Doing this to the other side of the
clamp is also not a bad idea but will require a slightly wider piece of material.
It is also a good idea to widen the surface area of the U-bolt with a file or
moto tool. Just remove a little material from the U-bolt where it would contact
the frame. Creating about a 1/8 inch wide contact area along with the
additional strap will greatly increase the supported area.
Replacing the stock nuts with nylocks on the clamp is also a good idea (they
are 5/16 nuts). This way you do not have to over tighten the nuts to keep
them from loosening up.

 

[Newbikers]

all done and ready to ride

i have a rear mounted tool box with spare parts and every major tool i need to fix the bike with so if the worst happens and the motor fails somehow i can revert back to a bicycle

 

[Newbikers]

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/Universal front mount.pdf

Notes on aluminum frames

As was mentioned previously the U-bolt does not offer enough surface area to
provide adequate support for aluminum frames. Here are a few options.

1. You can drill out the holes on your old mounting strap the same diameter
as the U-bolt. You can then use it to add extra support to U-bolt. The stock
strap can only be use on tube sizes 1 1/8 to 1 ½ inches.

2. You can also add a small strip of steel to increase the surface area of the
U-bolt. Pictured here is some steel pallet banding strap that can be had for
free at any warehouse that ships large pallets.
The strip should never go more than half way around your tube or it will
interfere with the other side of the clamp. Doing this to the other side of the
clamp is also not a bad idea but will require a slightly wider piece of material.
It is also a good idea to widen the surface area of the U-bolt with a file or
moto tool. Just remove a little material from the U-bolt where it would contact
the frame. Creating about a 1/8 inch wide contact area along with the
additional strap will greatly increase the supported area.
Replacing the stock nuts with nylocks on the clamp is also a good idea (they
are 5/16 nuts). This way you do not have to over tighten the nuts to keep
them from loosening up.

I dont have any way to get ahold of the steel to do it or else i would believe me.

secondly i see no visible damage and even if some thing bad happened to the bike i can always buy another one

heck i could get a bike for free from the goodwill here

 

[MarkSumpter]

New Bi9kers the issue is not whether you can get another bike or not or even if it is free. The issue we both are telling you is that motorized bikes are not toys and can cause serious injury or even kill you. If that frame breaks while doing 30 MPH you better have a first aid kit in that cute tool box and hope someone will use it on you if you can't.

Another point to make is that SPPs narrative on Aluminum frames offers 2 FREE and simple methods to distribute the load of the engine clamp one of which you already should have that came with your kit and the other easily found in a dumpster.

As Goat said you made a rather telling statement that the Steel clamp needed to STRETCH around thew aluminum frame. Muffler clamps are hardened to take heat and torque they are under in their intended usage. If you are in fact forcing that U bolt and clamp around the frame you can darn sure bet that the frame is the one to give and already has to a degree and will only get worse with vibration. And if it is sharp then it will only compound the problem and act like a saw blade.he Gads man grind the sharp edges off on the sidewalk if you don't have a file, grinder or dremel tool but don't simply create your own problems.

This is not the first time in this thread that you have alienated an experienced builder. Goat and I are both telling you something from experience that can save your bike and possibly you some pain. Take it for what it is worth but if you ask a question and snit off to experienced people here you will soon find your posts wont get answered at all.

 

[Newbikers]

Mark i built this bike for 1 reason only

because i dont have any money at all
so the problem is that i dont really have anyways to fix stuff with tools i dont have

i had to spend 10$ on a C clamp a while ago from lowes and i was so poor i almost had to return it after using

i dont have money to buy a file or steel bar stock or nylon washers

i dont ride the bike at 30mph anyways

more like 10mph or less and i wear a DOT motorcycle helmet (full helmet)

i have checked the frame when i had the engine off and nothing is wrong with it.

if i see something "sawing through" like you describe then i will have cause to be weary of riding

but i check my bike every time i ride it. so i am not worried about that

also i am not asking for a walkthrough just opinions .

in the end it is my decision that matters nobody else

 

[Newbikers]

another thing i read on this forum
people build these bikes for different reasons

1 is that they are poor.
this is not a hobby for me
i spent under 500$ on this didnt buy anything extra

basically bought the kit used some tools i had and that's it.
got the money from selling my 150cc scooter that a valve snapped in
the valve broke while i was riding and destroyed the engine top end
i sold it and decided to build this as next transportation

as long as it works to go from point 1 to 2 i don't really care what else happens

 

[Newbikers]

people have came in here hating on wal-mart bikes and stuff

complaining and such
i dont really care
i am a trail blazer i'll make my own path

it's a learning experience after all isn't it.
I'll learn 1 way or another

 

[biknut]

I found this really solid wal-mart bike called a Genesis

It has 29 inch wheels and a front disc brake

The frame tubes seem to be standard shaped
nothing fancy just regular round

Will a kit work on this frame / bike?



Well i finished this bike
The engine worked good and it gets me around town.
You can read about the story of the bike here in this thread.

Here is the finished product

Very nice looking bike. I think you did a great job on a difficult build, especially considering it's your first build. I'm sure you learned a lot. Congratulations.

 

[Acraze]

Hey newbikers where did you get that rear rack? How much? I would like one to go on my awesome walmart bike too.