The Schwinn Riverside with 79cc predator
- Thread starter BelayBoy
- Start date
I agree with borntofli. If you plan on a horizontal mount, the chief is your best bet. A ruff would probably work too. A vertical mount would allow a smaller frame for it. Possibly easier for a chain line too, like what scott/ccc/sportcarpat setup. I love those setup but couldn't replicate what they done and got a chief hahaha.
i was thinking of this bike that lynn has on her site http://www.custommotoredbicycles.com/more_bicycles_to_motorize_new
all i need is frame, got to make sure it can take 1.125" fork the riverside is 1" old school
all i need is frame, got to make sure it can take 1.125" fork the riverside is 1" old school
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I have not heard of one person mounting the disc rotor to the sbp jackshaft. Several members have bolted the rotor to the AGK jackshaft on 4 stroke builds, but the AGK jackshaft is completely different. The jackshaft input sprocket on the AGK jackshaft is held in place with 3 bolts, the disc rotor bolts up to that. You have to get a bit creative with mounting the caliper. In your case, you're gonna have to get creative with the entire thing. You could order the jackshaft mini-hub from AGK, it will fit any 5/8 shaft, and use that is your input sprocket on the sbp j-shaft, that will allow you to mount the rotor, and then you will just need to get creative with mounting the caliper. Keep in mind, there is a serious gearing advantage with mounting the rotor on the jackshaft vs mounting it on a wheel, so the disc will grab much harder than normal. I briefly considered mounting a rotor to my agk j-shaft as an emergency brake, but then I decided to build my own wheels with front and rear drums.
Most likely bolt on bracket, I just thought that someone already did it so I don't have to reinvent it.
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I am curious as to why you would want any brake on a SBP 2-stroke jackshaft kit, the only purpose it could possibly serve is to stall the engine because all shifting back wheels freewheel.
It took me a bit to Paul.
It would work on a Fixie back wheel but what is the purpose of a jackshaft if you are not running a geared back wheel?
O my god guys.
I came back from long ride and this
I had thread lock and shim lock but wow!.
I just need to stop and go with money lost.
Take it from me, if you wish to build motorbike, avoid bolt on method, go with weld and weld nothing but weld on
I came back from long ride and this
I had thread lock and shim lock but wow!.
I just need to stop and go with money lost.
Take it from me, if you wish to build motorbike, avoid bolt on method, go with weld and weld nothing but weld on
Picture is hard to see, but lemme guess.... frame cracked? by "bolt on method" you mean to drill a hole through the frame and stick a bolt in it?
If so, I am sorry to hear that!
That method is a frame killer...
Clamp on or welded mount is the way to go.
If so, I am sorry to hear that!
That method is a frame killer...Clamp on or welded mount is the way to go.
No, he lost his front mounting clamp. I had to shim my motor mounts as well, and the shim fell out once, although I never lost the mounting clamp, but the M6 bolts will strip the aluminum quite easy. I re-tapped 7/16 bolts in all my mounting holes. As for the shim, cut it longer than the mounting clamp so you can hose clamp the shim to the frame and it won't fall out again.
Ohhh! Ok, I see it now.
Sorry to hear that, BelayBoy. That could have been a very "eventful" ride
I ground my mounts to fit the frame as perfectly as I could. They virtually snap in place. A lil' loctite blue and so far, no loose bolts. *Knock on wood*
BTW, I clean and degrease the all the threads of anything I am using loctite on with brake cleaner first. I even modded a spray straw to squirt sideways to get into the threads and positively clean them instead of the cleaner hitting the back of the hole and reflecting back out and hoping it will rinse the threads. How you prep the fasteners can make a big difference with loctite.
Sorry to hear that, BelayBoy. That could have been a very "eventful" ride
I ground my mounts to fit the frame as perfectly as I could. They virtually snap in place. A lil' loctite blue and so far, no loose bolts. *Knock on wood*
BTW, I clean and degrease the all the threads of anything I am using loctite on with brake cleaner first. I even modded a spray straw to squirt sideways to get into the threads and positively clean them instead of the cleaner hitting the back of the hole and reflecting back out and hoping it will rinse the threads. How you prep the fasteners can make a big difference with loctite.
I like a muffler clamp and plate for a front mount.
Get the right size clamp and it gives you nearly 360 degree clamping and a flat place for a plate to mount the engine.
I generally get SBP mount kits because they have the hardened bolts and lots of different spacers but you can make one with $1.50 muffler clamp, some good metal you can tool, and the hardware.
As for LockTite...
I find 90% or better isopropyl alcohol to be the ideal residue free cleaning solvent, it's what I used to clean hard disc platters, disc heads, and tape drive heads back in my old computer days.
Don't confuse this with standard 70% rubbing alcohol, that will leave a residue, it has to be at at least 90% to leave no residue, my current 91% 16oz $1 Kroger bottle will last over a year as it's usually a Q-tip or clean rag wipe for lock-tighting.
Hope that helps you get your bike running safe and strong.
Get the right size clamp and it gives you nearly 360 degree clamping and a flat place for a plate to mount the engine.
I generally get SBP mount kits because they have the hardened bolts and lots of different spacers but you can make one with $1.50 muffler clamp, some good metal you can tool, and the hardware.
As for LockTite...
I find 90% or better isopropyl alcohol to be the ideal residue free cleaning solvent, it's what I used to clean hard disc platters, disc heads, and tape drive heads back in my old computer days.
Don't confuse this with standard 70% rubbing alcohol, that will leave a residue, it has to be at at least 90% to leave no residue, my current 91% 16oz $1 Kroger bottle will last over a year as it's usually a Q-tip or clean rag wipe for lock-tighting.
Hope that helps you get your bike running safe and strong.
Kc, I don't think you read the whole thread. Although he is using an sbp shift kit, this is a 4 stroke build. It's even in the title. Muffler clamp won't work on the agk predator mounting plate, unless you're mounting the cylinder upright and even then you'd have to drill extra holes in the agk mount to use muffler clamps.
the plate and mounts are the perfect fit for the Schwinn riverside 79cc hf, i guess it is just nature of the bolt-on items to fall off under extreme vibration.
i did go back with my car and tried to find the lost mount but no luck,
i don't even know where to get new mount for this plate, it's a bummer.
i did go back with my car and tried to find the lost mount but no luck,
i don't even know where to get new mount for this plate, it's a bummer.
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I know, I am familuar with the SBP 4-stroke kit.
This is not a SBP 4-stroke kit base.
That is an HS 4-stroke direct drive kit base with the funky big mounting ends.
This is an SBP base.
You can just pull that big piece of cast out of direct drive kit base and weld a flat plate to make a muffler clamp mount that don't come off.
How did you attach the back to the JS mount?
