Stock carb mod
- Thread starter Egor
- Start date
To tell you the truth spookey tooth sent me some pictures a couple of months ago.I still had to use some enginuity becuase I had to locate on a c'bore on the back side that I put on the sprocket I used a friends lathe and then I used a 6-32 tap to tap the spoke holes after I drilled the sprocket.I could make drawing if you would like
There is a kit at the bike shop I frequent. I would like to build a three wheeler next. The kit is 100 bucks I think that is a little expensive! Its just an axle, bolts to the rear stays. I think I would power it with a Briggs & Stratton, needs the four stroke sound. Keep you posted. Have fun, Dave
hi egor i just did this to my carb and it now boggs down when you try to rev the engine but once the revs are up its like powerband do you know what could be causing this?
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Just got home from the death race in Tucson----------My bike didn't do so well altitude change?
my other bike that I took and let a friend ride was doing well but he crashed he was running second
the race will be posted on u tube some guy from Texas won.
hi egor i just did this to my carb and it now boggs down when you try to rev the engine but once the revs are up its like powerband do you know what could be causing this?[/QAll fixed now it was just running too lean
you need to explain yourself better, for one are you on the bike riding it when it loses power?or are you just twisting the throttle with the clutch in,the way you explaine the situation might help.
hey Egor thx for the status change if your the one that lifted the the newbie off,I've built five and have two on the plate!
Murf
Murf
My bike bogs down at WOT. At the death race, a guy told me that the main jet was too big. He said to shut off the fuel line, and that before the the carb runs outta gas, it will run much better. Well, it sure did. It would rev up much higher and smoother and then the bike would go much faster. then it would die. Still had the slowest bike. What kind of solder wolder i use or can I just order new jets somewhere.
Good thread on soldering the jets.
Re-jetting Your Carb, As Easy As 1,2,3 ( quarkdude ) - MotoredBikes.com: Motorized Bicycle Forum
I've read that these will fit, thread : http://motorbicycling.com/f13/ht-main-jet-size-1353.html
site:
Main Jets 5mm : Dellorto Carburetors, And parts for you.
Mrakulous - Too bad about your bike I hope you still had fun. Those carbs are not the best/ One of the things you could have done, that would have helped if not cured the problem. I think too many people are trying to get the jetting correct on a carb that has a too high float level. You can change the level by slightly bending the little tabs down, this will lean the carb out just as you did by shutting the fuel off. As the fuel level went down it got to the spot that was correct for your bike, now just find that spot with the tabs. That is an old trick and it works well. Have fun, Dave
PS: I have seen no uniformity in the building of these carbs. We can never expect one setup to work on another kit.
PS: I have seen no uniformity in the building of these carbs. We can never expect one setup to work on another kit.
UPDATE:
its running pretty well now, i kept the .0625 hole because the solder wouldn't stick, and i melted i tickler, (if you solder a hole in your carb you need to remove the tickler! idk how tho) i tapered my needle and i have the clip second from top. and air filter off, the plug is brown, a little too dark, but close enough. im topping out at probably 34 mph with a 44 tooth, low end isn't TOO amazing. but good enough to keep me from fiddling with it. my low end suffers from my poor compression probably, which comes from small scratches in the cylinder.
I've replaced the head gasket with a normal rubberized gasket. working better than original after i had the scratches, but original was better before the scratches.
One trick I do is, I use the cleaning wires for a welder tip. I just file the jet a little at a time to see if I can get it where I need, so far so good its easy. Have fun, Dave
I tried this trick and it worked great after soddering my jet closed and drilling it out with a micro bit#71 I think. It doesn't take much to change the engine the mixture.
I bought my welder tip cleaner from Home Depot (about $3.65)
Thanks for the tip.
I tried this trick and it worked great after soddering my jet closed and drilling it out with a micro bit#71 I think. It doesn't take much to change the engine the mixture.
I bought my welder tip cleaner from Home Depot (about $3.65)
Thanks for the tip.
Hey egor,
how many differant piston sizes are thier for the 66cc motor Ive replaced mine and went through three trying to get the right size. the one I've got in there now I had to trim an 1/8 inch off the bottom of the skirt,otherwise it would hit the crank, strange it works I'm riding it----breaking it in
Murf
how many differant piston sizes are thier for the 66cc motor Ive replaced mine and went through three trying to get the right size. the one I've got in there now I had to trim an 1/8 inch off the bottom of the skirt,otherwise it would hit the crank, strange it works I'm riding it----breaking it in
Murf
Sorry I'm a little late on the answer to this post. If you have a piston that is hitting the crank at the bottom of the stroke you are using a long crank piston in a short crank engine. I know it is confusing but because these engines are made from different outfits they choose to make them as they want. I put some pics of the two different pistons out there somewhere but I have done too many posts to remember. what you have with the short piston in there is a very low compression engine, if you look you will notice that the piston is running short of the top of the barrel and in so doing will let the comp down quite a bit. If you don't mind I guess it is OK. I guess the question is, are you having fun? If you are then keep it up. Have fun, Dave
PS: What were the problems with the other pistons. There should only be two.
PS: What were the problems with the other pistons. There should only be two.
Thx for your reply I orderd the engine from spooky tooth,but after the death race I tore it down,I will never start another one of these engines without cleaning up the ports---not suprized but they dont even champher the edges on the inside------thus draging the sand out of the casting and into the bore.
I orderd a jug(barrel) from dax and a piston and they first sent me one with an 11mm bore for the wrist pin-------not compatible for the needle bearing app, I was looking for.so once again I called Roland at spooky tooth & kinda got back on track.
My bike doesn't run well at all it threw the timming off and it has low compreshion,
the good side is it idles well to be optimistic.
Roland is going to send me the right one & I will be back-----------hopefuly.
heres a picture from the drath race( I thought I was taking A picture but mt camera was on movie------oops,o well still learning!
I orderd a jug(barrel) from dax and a piston and they first sent me one with an 11mm bore for the wrist pin-------not compatible for the needle bearing app, I was looking for.so once again I called Roland at spooky tooth & kinda got back on track.
My bike doesn't run well at all it threw the timming off and it has low compreshion,
the good side is it idles well to be optimistic.
Roland is going to send me the right one & I will be back-----------hopefuly.
heres a picture from the drath race( I thought I was taking A picture but mt camera was on movie------oops,o well still learning!