More Maytag Mayhem
- Thread starter cannonball2
- Start date
Thanks Curt.
Made a 2" roller. Actually its 1.9" after the cut. Its a lot happier, will rev higher because of being unloaded. Need a better spring for down force. It reminds me of a Velosolex engine. It will go slower and slower climbing a hill but never chokes out. Just slows down but keeps on going.
Made a throttle knob from an old cabinet knob, right in character. The throttle itself is a rod from a very old crib that the front slid up and down on. Never throw any metal away!
Got a new camera so adding a couple of pics to see if they will load.
Made a 2" roller. Actually its 1.9" after the cut. Its a lot happier, will rev higher because of being unloaded. Need a better spring for down force. It reminds me of a Velosolex engine. It will go slower and slower climbing a hill but never chokes out. Just slows down but keeps on going.
Made a throttle knob from an old cabinet knob, right in character. The throttle itself is a rod from a very old crib that the front slid up and down on. Never throw any metal away!
Got a new camera so adding a couple of pics to see if they will load.
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So have been riding this thing a good bit. Have noticed the left cylinder runs about 70degrees hotter than the right. It is the last cylinder to receive its mixture so maybe its running leaner. Doesn't seem to bother the engine. Am thinking of adding "eyebrows" over the cylinders like on my old J-3 Cub to catch more air. Also thought of wrapping springs between the cylinder fins. That was an old trick to increase cabin heat on aircraft. Fill the heat muff with wound stretched screen door springs. I can just about bet Bud Fabs north/south Maytag is a hot runner. The Flywheel fan blew a lot of air. I may be a victim of my own argument on forced air cooling.
Same. As is the standard. Strangely it might be the cylinder. I noticed that the plug on the hotter cylinder screwed further into the cylinder than the other. I added an extra plug washer and the temp dropped a bit. It must have advanced the timing a bit, being closer to the piston. Who knows the subtleties of the original assembly. Maybe there is a right and left cylinder. Commonly they are interchanged. Maybe It was miss-machined. This was all hands on back then. Who knows, its an interesting conundrum.
Fabbed an "eyebrow" for the hot running cylinder. Havent had a chance to test it. I have come to the conclusion that maybe the carb is up setting the airflow. When the engine was fan cooled the air came from the other direction. Hopefully this will solve or at least help the problem. If so then the engineering on the build is finished.
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Me to SB and now may have to sell a couple engines and find a Maytag motor...........Curt
Thanks guys! This build is one that Im not sure what is building who. Its kinda like my dogs, they have finally got me trained.
Funny thing is its backasswards to my normal build format which is to make it look like it just emerged from a factory. Now its whatever it takes. If the hot cylinder cools off with the eyebrow, then the right cylinder doesn't get one. I will leave a legacy of pretzel thinking with this one.
Cool thing about old guy builds is nothing is CNC. Not that there is anything wrong with that, its just that our format is basic skill coupled with hand tools. With that one can build just about anything they are physically capable of. There is a life time of experience both skilled and esoteric behind this. I am happy to share such company!
Funny thing is its backasswards to my normal build format which is to make it look like it just emerged from a factory. Now its whatever it takes. If the hot cylinder cools off with the eyebrow, then the right cylinder doesn't get one. I will leave a legacy of pretzel thinking with this one.
Cool thing about old guy builds is nothing is CNC. Not that there is anything wrong with that, its just that our format is basic skill coupled with hand tools. With that one can build just about anything they are physically capable of. There is a life time of experience both skilled and esoteric behind this. I am happy to share such company!
The saga continues. Made a matching air guide for the right cylinder. They seem to be working as both cylinder temps are very close now. However the best mod is to the muffler. I was trashing my jeans and shoes forgetting to ride with my right foot back. So, made a deflector. Works like a charm, all the oil and smoke exits stage right. Clean clothes! It is pretty hard on anybody on the side of the road. Smoked a jogger before I realized the exhaust was so effectively deflected. Have to give them wide berth now.
Also swapped out the mismatched rims for a matched set that I pin striped with my newly acquired paint rolling striper. Worked pretty well.
Also swapped out the mismatched rims for a matched set that I pin striped with my newly acquired paint rolling striper. Worked pretty well.
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Coming right along! The stripe on the wheels looks good. How does that roller work? Got a picture or a link?
SB
SB
Man I am glad this thread continues. Been kinda a thing every day to see what was new with it. "tune in tomorrow....." sort of thing.
Really interested in your striper, CB.
(hehe, glad spell check caught my misspellin' on that one)
Is it a devise?
Really interested in your striper, CB.
(hehe, glad spell check caught my misspellin' on that one)
Is it a devise?
Funny Dan I almost spelled it that way. Not that I know anything about the version with two Ps--hehe.
Heres a pic of the striper. Its old old. Got it off ebay. I really wanted a Beugler, its the Cadillac, Mercedes, etc of the stripers, with that kind if price. This was cheap. It works well enough with almost any type paint. The little wire is an adjustable guide. Custom ones are easily made from coat hanger wire.
To stripe the wheel you just mount it in a fork or the bike upside down, set the guide and spin the wheel slowly and evenly. I also striped some junk fenders with great results. The paint was tractor enamel from Tractor Supply, straight from the can, un-thinned.
It has multiple wheels and spacers you swap out for wider or multiple lines.
Requires a bit of practice to use, but NOTHING like the skill to stripe with a brush.
Heres a pic of the striper. Its old old. Got it off ebay. I really wanted a Beugler, its the Cadillac, Mercedes, etc of the stripers, with that kind if price. This was cheap. It works well enough with almost any type paint. The little wire is an adjustable guide. Custom ones are easily made from coat hanger wire.
To stripe the wheel you just mount it in a fork or the bike upside down, set the guide and spin the wheel slowly and evenly. I also striped some junk fenders with great results. The paint was tractor enamel from Tractor Supply, straight from the can, un-thinned.
It has multiple wheels and spacers you swap out for wider or multiple lines.
Requires a bit of practice to use, but NOTHING like the skill to stripe with a brush.
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That's purty cool, CB. Has an old world look.
Got me thinking a DIY one would not be all that hard?
Got me thinking a DIY one would not be all that hard?
Dan there is a Utube vid where a guy makes a very crude striper using a coin for the roller. It worked pretty well considering the poor job on fabbing it. Done better, I believe it would work as well as a manufactured one. You can add coins to change the stripe type. Very simple! Just use a coil with a serrated edge.
Did a plug chop yesterday after a blazing 18mph run, she was really turning up! Its obvious the rear cylinder runs leaner. Has to be by design. There are no air leaks any where on the engine, including at the bushings. Read a good bit on these engines and the consensus is they run better once they are "hot" Whatever temp that is.
The CG carb jetting seems right on. The engine will 4stroke above half throttle unloaded, but settles down to a nice even run under load. I have to come to the conclusion these engines are also oil cooled, they sure enough blow a lot out. Guess you had to check the winds in the area before doing laundry back in the day, otherwise one might have a house full of smoke!
Did a plug chop yesterday after a blazing 18mph run, she was really turning up! Its obvious the rear cylinder runs leaner. Has to be by design. There are no air leaks any where on the engine, including at the bushings. Read a good bit on these engines and the consensus is they run better once they are "hot" Whatever temp that is.
The CG carb jetting seems right on. The engine will 4stroke above half throttle unloaded, but settles down to a nice even run under load. I have to come to the conclusion these engines are also oil cooled, they sure enough blow a lot out. Guess you had to check the winds in the area before doing laundry back in the day, otherwise one might have a house full of smoke!
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So been doing a few refinements. Added a much need fuel shut off. In typical fashion the CG carb randomly graced the garage floor with the tanks contents.
So the latest problem was a brain fade. Its common to mix fuel a quart at a time for these engines as nothing else I have runs a 16:1 ratio. I mixed up a batch and set out on a run. Was more difficult to start than normal but its been cold so passed it off as that. Was kinda boggy but began to run better as it warmed. Finally it straightened out and ran almost great. Was cruising pretty fast. When I pulled in to the place and shut it down it was abnormally hot.? Was mystified, the temp was low 50s. Had never done this before.
Spent a good part of the day thinking of how to improve cooling, went to bed thinking about it. Suddenly I realized the problem, I had put half gallons worth of oil in a quart(4oz) this would be 32oz/gal or a ratio of 4:1!! I think the only reason it started was the very hot battery ignition.
As it warmed up it began to burn the excessive oil as fuel. I had read years back that adding extra oil to a 2stroke for good measure would result in higher running temps due to the fact more oil would be burned raising the temps due to its higher thermal content.
The point of this diatribe is to substantiate this fact. I advertently had created what was a zillion years back was called an oil engine. They ran oils mixed with gas at ratios of 8 to 12:1. They didn't run well at all until they were hot. The gasoline helped them start and the oil provided a great deal of the power.
So rule #1 NO extra oil!
So the latest problem was a brain fade. Its common to mix fuel a quart at a time for these engines as nothing else I have runs a 16:1 ratio. I mixed up a batch and set out on a run. Was more difficult to start than normal but its been cold so passed it off as that. Was kinda boggy but began to run better as it warmed. Finally it straightened out and ran almost great. Was cruising pretty fast. When I pulled in to the place and shut it down it was abnormally hot.? Was mystified, the temp was low 50s. Had never done this before.
Spent a good part of the day thinking of how to improve cooling, went to bed thinking about it. Suddenly I realized the problem, I had put half gallons worth of oil in a quart(4oz) this would be 32oz/gal or a ratio of 4:1!! I think the only reason it started was the very hot battery ignition.
As it warmed up it began to burn the excessive oil as fuel. I had read years back that adding extra oil to a 2stroke for good measure would result in higher running temps due to the fact more oil would be burned raising the temps due to its higher thermal content.
The point of this diatribe is to substantiate this fact. I advertently had created what was a zillion years back was called an oil engine. They ran oils mixed with gas at ratios of 8 to 12:1. They didn't run well at all until they were hot. The gasoline helped them start and the oil provided a great deal of the power.
So rule #1 NO extra oil!
So for awhile there you had an oil engine. Interesting... I'd never heard of that until now. One more reason to be accurate in mixing gas for a 2 stroke. Good you figured that one out!
SB
SB
Back in the day when I raced 2 stroke desert bikes I was taught that more oil meant less gas and leaner running with higher temps.
The exhaust from the engine would be routed through a flex hose out the screen door or window when doing the laundry inside. Maytag even made a tube that permanently attached to the the wall of your house to run the flex hose through. In good weather the laundry was done outside close to the clothesline.
The exhaust from the engine would be routed through a flex hose out the screen door or window when doing the laundry inside. Maytag even made a tube that permanently attached to the the wall of your house to run the flex hose through. In good weather the laundry was done outside close to the clothesline.
