What is the best route to go to change out the cheap bolts on the engine mounts? Is it better to go with a bolt into the motor or the threaded bar way? Any help is appreciated.
If you are referring to me...yes with studs I use RED lock tite. Using bolts I would not use RED. RED dries so well that at times you need heat to remove a fastener. Heating a stud for removal is not a problem whereas a bolt might be. I use RED on every stud.y would u tell people not to use locktite that just seems silly as i use red locktite on everything and havent had any complications yet it stops the **** from fallin off lol
I'm with you, gubba on most things.i have done 30 builds and have never needed to use locktite.
these are cast allm blocks and if you use excissive tightening ou will break the mounts, break off bolts or strip the holes.
using 'hard' steel bolts in the motormounts is begging for trouble.
just tighten the bolts tight enough for the motor to sit solid.... then double nut all mount nuts.
i have never had a build come loose break or strip.
stay dry
gubba
Do you have anything between the down tube and the engine mount. People have found it best to have the engine mount mounted directly to the seat/down tube, this will transfer the vibration throughout the bike. On my first build I had such a vibration that my hands were numb for 30 minutes after riding 10 miles. Eventually the frame broke in two (I had drilled a hole in the frame), and had to change frames until I repaired the broke frame. When I mounted the engine on a different frame 90% of the vibration disappeared......much to my delight. Mounting procedures the same, and transferred the wheels to the second frame. Just thought I'd pass that experience along.yes i was was referring to you Al. But i think I have a poorly balanced crank as even red locktite on my 5/16 allenhead bolts still needed to be retightened a couple times now, plus thing feels like im riding a bee hive at high rpms.
Thanks for the info on the torque specs.Yes I trash ALL OEM hardware. The cylinder studs are made out of the same junk, and in most cases are 8mm studs not the 6mm that the engine mount uses. Along with you stated the most important thing to remember is to mount the engine mounts on the tubes as perfectly as you can. Space between the mount and tube is a major cause of broken studs, stripped threads and cracked cases.
Also 6mm studs are torqued to 50-70 INCH pounds and 8mm 150-200 INCH pounds. I have used 50 and 150 on all my builds without issues.