Can anyone help identify this engine

[krygods]

Hey all, I'm new to the forum. I'm looking to use this engine for a FD bike. I removed the engine from an old edger i found sitting on the side of my boat. Not sure what kind of edger it was but the air filter says craftsman on it so I'm guessing its a craftsman. Wondering if anyone can identify the engine.

Another question I have is about the output shaft. Its a 5/8 shaft with a woodruff key but its not threaded on the end. How would I attach a drive roller to this type of output shaft?

 

[curtisfox]

Were is the flywheel cover? Looks like a briggs to me. There should be some numbers on the cover. Briggs are stamped in and tecumesh is a lable or sticker.............Curt

 

[krygods]

Heres a few pics of the flywheel cover

 

[maniac57]

Standard Briggs & Stratton flat head. Looks like either a 2 1/2 hp or maybe a 4hp.
Too small for a 5hp.

 

[krygods]

What are some options to attach a drive roller to the output shaft?

 

[cannonball2]

That's an H-30 Tecumseh. Has the fairly rare side exhaust. Probably on an edger. If I am seeing correctly its the model with a pumper carb.
Great little motor!

 

[cannonball2]

If you drill and tap the crank which is not hard, you can mount a roller like this. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=301006&postcount=1

 

[silverbear]

What is that, about 4 hsp?
SB

 

[krygods]

If you drill and tap the crank which is not hard, you can mount a roller like this. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=301006&postcount=1

What size tap would you reccomend? The shaft is 5/8"

 

[cannonball2]

Should be 3hp. The Tecumseh nomenclature makes sense. H is horizontal and the number is the HP--3.0 . A 4hp would be an H-40, 5hp, H-50 etc.
I said this may have a pumper carb. Actually its a diaphragm carb, no float but its gravity fed. Not sure were these carbs were used, but I only remember seeing them on certain H-30s.
Notice the big cast iron flywheel, makes it a smooth runner.

 

[krygods]

cannonball what size tap would you recommend me use for tapping the output shaft?

 

[silverbear]

I have three of those H40s, all from snow blowers with crapped up carbs and rusted out mufflers. I was looking at one this morning and liking the flathead aspect. Seems to me I couldn't get the carb off one... can't remember why, but am now thinking that even if I demolished a carb in removal, so what? Put a china girl carb on it and don't worry about rebuilding one.
Is that a pretty good engine? Reliable and easy to start? Might be nice for a friction drive.
SB

 

[Ludwig II]

I suppose you have the carbs, but I'd have thought one from a small 4 stroke bike would be a bit better. But if it works, it works.

 

[cannonball2]

What size tap would you reccomend? The shaft is 5/8"

1/4-5/16" is fine. There is not a lot of loading on the bolt. It just holds the roller in compression.

 

[cannonball2]

I have three of those H40s, all from snow blowers with crapped up carbs and rusted out mufflers. I was looking at one this morning and liking the flathead aspect. Seems to me I couldn't get the carb off one... can't remember why, but am now thinking that even if I demolished a carb in removal, so what? Put a china girl carb on it and don't worry about rebuilding one.
Is that a pretty good engine? Reliable and easy to start? Might be nice for a friction drive.
SB

They are good little engines SB. The carbs are prone to gummig up if left sitting. Replacement carbs are out there I think in the $30 range. A CG carb may work but would probably be on the small side. I believe the displacement is in the 140cc range.

 

[krygods]

This can be accomplished with the crank still in the engine yes? Also would you recommend drilling with a drill press or can a hand drill be safely used?

 

[Ludwig II]

My inclination is to make sure the crankshaft is locked and use the drill press, having first measured twice, and then come back to make sure.

This is not because I am an engineer; I am dreadful at these things, and will use anything and everything to make sure it comes out right.

Paranoid, basically.

 

[cannonball2]

Its not really too big of a deal. The crank is cast iron, relatively soft and drills easily. I agree it would be nice to drill dead center, but in reality it matters little if its off a small bit at least for an FD roller. If you don't have the drill and tap, I would recommend buying a new tap and a matching drill bit to insure a good tap job. Just drill as straight as you possibly can. Its most important to have the bolt pull down square. If you drill the crank from above tape a plastic bag just below the end to catch/deflect the drillings form the cranks oil seal and bearing.

 

[cannonball2]

I don't know what you are going to do for the roller. Heres a kink to my experiences with direct drive rollers. If you laminate rollers longer than your crank then eliminate the clutch collar. This roller type has served me well. Maybe you can do something different and better. We always need new thoughts and ideas. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=301261&postcount=11

 

[silverbear]

Thanks to this thread I've been reconsidering the Tecumseh flat head. Other than lab rat's build I don't recall seeing a Tecumseh 4 stroke in the 3-5 hsp range for a build here on the forum. Plenty of Brigs, but not Tecumseh. Yet I run across more Tecumseh engines on old snow blowers and such than I do Brigs engines. Easy to come by, so why aren't more being used for our builds?

It seems to me that the H3-H4 are just right in displacement for a bike motor. The H3 must be comparable to a 99cc Predator engine in hp and the H-4 would be midway between the 99 and the 212 Predator. For most bikes I think the 212 is too much motor. At 140cc or thereabouts the H4 would be a good choice, about the same displacement as a Whizzer engine.

I'd like to see either the H3 or H4 stripped down without cowling and with the flywheel fins shaved off. How compact is it? These are common engines in the states. Why aren't we using them more?
SB