1911 Flying Merkel single build.
- Thread starter Velodrome
- Start date
Last few pics before brake down for powdercoat. Handlebars have 2 Nash internal throttles. One for clutch and one for throttle. Old tymie kill switch and soon will have guide tubes added to the bars to clean up the cable and wire escape holes. Bottom pic shows the copper tube pointed at the chain; it originates as the crankcase vent.. I figured if there is any blow-by I might as well use it.
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Your engine back-dating mods and the attendant copper plumbing make for a very convincing overall picture. This build will likely fool all who see it - apart from those who followed the build thread.
Can't wait to see it when the powder coaters have done their thing.
And when the time comes, I'll lay odds on it living up to the 'FLYING' part of its namesake. So much so, you might be tempted to add another 'blow by valve' on the seat..!!!
Can't wait to see it when the powder coaters have done their thing.
And when the time comes, I'll lay odds on it living up to the 'FLYING' part of its namesake. So much so, you might be tempted to add another 'blow by valve' on the seat..!!!
Hey Dan,
Maybe you already talked about it, not sure. What are your impressions of the manual clutch? Easy to pedal start? Easy to feed in the power smoothly?
Maybe you already talked about it, not sure. What are your impressions of the manual clutch? Easy to pedal start? Easy to feed in the power smoothly?
"So much so, you might be tempted to add another 'blow by valve' on the seat..!!! " Pete: A closer inspection for the saddle photos will show it's already vented for accidental leakage relief... It is very quick and fast for a motorized bike. Much more motorcycle like than any MB I've ridden. So much so, it out speeds the braking capability. I Have a part coming from S.C.P. for correcting this. I want to drop the top speed by a fair bit.
" Pete: A closer inspection for the saddle photos will show it's already vented for accidental leakage relief... It is very quick and fast for a motorized bike. Much more motorcycle like than any MB I've ridden. So much so, it out speeds the braking capability. I Have a part coming from S.C.P. for correcting this. I want to drop the top speed by a fair bit.
Speaking of S.C.P. Hey Pat! The clutch does have some issues. Especially when using an internal clutch "lever" Maybe not the smartest idea but its almost required for the proper look. I think I have a cure though. As far as pedal start: Works GREAT! ( except ) pedaling past peak compression is a *****! Proper setup of the pedal angle AND the flywheel is necessary for success. I have a cure for this on the way in the form of a smaller pedal drive side front sprocket
As to feeding in power it IS quite abrupt. And if your not very careful it can send quite a torque shock through the frame. Engagement range from off to on is VERY narrow. However I have a potenital cure. I'm going to beat a lever out of metal that extends out the cable attachment point creating a much longer arch of OFF to ON range. I'm quite sure better / more acceptable control could be had using a "normal" clutch lever. So my experience may be worse even than yours. Let's see how this extended lever experiment goes in a few weeks once its back for the "powder room"
ALSO: As the motor idles on the clutch heats and as bits expand the clutch starts to drag more and more. Making it a bit nerve wracking fastening up the dropstand at the back of the bike with all hands well away from all controls. Bit worrying. I havent had an incident yet but it's not trustworthy. I discovered I'm not getting FULL disengagement from the internal clutch. IF I reach down and grab and twist forward the protruding bolt the clutch does fully disengage. SO; again the extended lever fix may be the.... Fix... Sorry.
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To prevent any confusion I'm using a NASH "Sticky" throttle on both sides. Quite possibly the WORST name ever for a throttle product. It works thus. In the bottom cap there is a very small set screw that can compress a moderatly soft nylon dowel. As you compress it the nylon squishes against the internal housing causing an adjustable amount of drag. Have mine set to hold whatever position I set it in so I can "lock" the clutch disengaged while I fumble around at the back of the bike tying up the drop stand. Its not hard at all to over power and work the clutch while riding. Still very smooth, just more resistance. Motor vibration doesnt seem to affect it. They are both ~ 1/4 turn throttles and the clutch side would benefit from a tighter internal spiral and more travel to improve clutch pull and control. This will have to do. Exile makes one as I just described specifically for the clutch side, but its around $400 and thats right out. The Exile product also has no "locking" capability.
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I have become quite handy with the manual clutch and it sounds as though you are figuring it out. I just make damn sure I DO NOT chatter the clutch on engagement. So, if I feel any chatter I just pull in on the lever, add power, or both. Better to slip than to chatter. On starting I never just dump the clutch, I "pop it" in the sense that I pedal up to speed and pop the lever till the engine fires and then immediately pull the lever back in. I do not try to pedal through. Like I say, I can use it smoothly and effectively, but it ain't easy.
I'm thinking an engine compression release would be a great aid for start up Pat, but I follow what you're saying about popping rather than dropping the clutch as a start up technique. I have yet to mount my 3 D clutch & appreciate all the input guys. Some of 3 D's comments online indicated to me that clutch engagement travel was a bit close tolerance & at one point changed the clutch lever to address the issue, though that's a moot point to help the Merkle's internal clutch setup. Rick C..
Thanks guys. Yes Rick A compression release would be great but I have no idea how it could be done on my current motor. Pat. Due to the ergonomics of the bike and my own configuration Riding and pedaling is really not an option for me. Sitting with the bike on the stand and pumping away at the pedals gets the job done though. Bike is now in bits now and and the parts that need it are at the powdercoat shop. Finally! Getting some orange colored goodness.
Riding and pedaling is really not an option for me. Sitting with the bike on the stand and pumping away at the pedals gets the job done though. Bike is now in bits now and and the parts that need it are at the powdercoat shop. Finally! Getting some orange colored goodness.
