4G T Belt Drive Installation Problems BlowByU Is Here For You

Hi Terry,

The guys were riding the EZM Q-Matic on the HS 4-strokes. Pirate Cycles is also an Authorized EZM dealership.

Ray also had one of the HF 79 CC four stroke motors using our drive system.

You might want to use an electronic tachometer & speedometer. Some versions of the Whizzer speedometers aren't accurate.
Have fun,

Hi Terry,

I wonder if the primary drive ratios are the 4 X 1 instead of the 5 X 1. If it is 4 X 1 then it would be possible to reach the speeds without putting the motor into orbit. I know when Don first contacted me he had the numbers all wrong and was adding the primary & secondary ratios instead of multiplying them. I guess they do math differently in China ["NCM" new Chinese math LOL].

If you are using a 50 rear divided by 11 then the ratio is 4.54 X 1 and if using American math and multiplying the final would be 18.18 X 1 [if the front is 4 X 1]. At 30 MPH on a 24" the motor would be turning 7650.

One of the reasons we elected to offer different ratios on our drive was to stop from running the motor at such high RPMs at normal cruising speeds.

The majority of our customers only want to cruise at 30 MPH to 35 MPH, get good mileage and have plently of power to avoid pedal assist at take off. If the drives are made with very high ratios [22.7 X 1], the take off is great, but the motor is wound tight at crusing speeds and the gas mileage drops like a rock. Not to mention constant high RPM speeds isn't good for motor life.

Looks like the ratios needed on the 2-stroke motors was carried over to the 4-stroke motors and noone made the needed changes to work correctly. 2-stroke motors have very little torque at low RPMs and need wild ratios to work, whereas 4-stroke motors have lots more torque at lower RPMs and don't need the same ratios to get the bike in motion.

We spent a lot of time, money & research in arriving at good basic ratios for the 49 CC 4-stroke motors and understood the need for different ratios for different conditions. Some want to fly, some want to cruise, some need to climb hills, and some gained a little weight, and those are the reasons we made the drives easily "tuneable".

Have fun,

Terry,

Someone did say Have Fun.

Heres one of your 4G's installed on a Micargi Tahiti. A simple fork change and handlebar change gave it a entire new look and feel. Just waiting on my adapters to finish it off. Fun build!

I'm trying out all the 4 strokes tranny kits on the market. I'm excited to do so.

I will then make a decision on my favorite 2 and those will be the ones we sell.


Glad to be a part of the team Quenton.. Thanks for having me...




Justin

I just got the 4g t belt drive to use with an extra honda engine I have to go on the back of a girls bike for my girlfriend as a rear rack mount. Problem I have is the CC that came with the honda version does the same thing the old CC's did with the Stage 3's , It engages too soon and clanks and clatters trying to grab at the lowest idle I can get without killing the engine. Has anyone used this new honda CC. It's not the three shoe that looks like it comes with the HS. I don't know if it's adjustable or not I'm trying to contact anyone who sells them to see. Thanks

Glack,

I think, if your clutch is engaging early you might benefit from lightening your clutch shoes. Grubees are notorious (it seems) for this. Find a spot where you can locate on ea. shoe in the same spot w/o imparing mechanics and drill 'em out, lighten them up. I think theres some threads floatin' around!

Oil impregnated bronze is readilly avail (841,863 etc) if needed.

The bronze bushings available here are like frozen oil. Put'em on your lap and they're sweating oil.

Cheers!

So the springs aren't too weak on the CC itself. It seemed like as soon as I fired it up for the first time it clanked and clattered spinning the bell. I'll try soaking it though. Do I have to remove it from the bell. It seems pretty tight in there you got me worried about breaking it now.

Thanks
chris

THis is what mine looks like TS. It's the CC in the upper left corner

They're not fragile (so to speak). Just don't drop it. Even so it'll ding like aluminum. but if your going to soak it, soak it hot, like 300-400 deg. That'll open up the pores enough that when it gets that hot it'll have oil to deposit. It won't last though (it's not a sponge), and it's typical of Chinese stuff in that they seem to skimp only on the important (expensive) ingredients in the things we buy from them; hense the reputation.

If the Bushing is really the problem, we can get (source/make) one that works well.

Terry,

No offense taken. Thanks for the compliment!

I wasn't trying to compare my products w/ the 4G or put it down.

I cut American oillite bronze all the time and the oil just seeps out all over your tools. In fact there are (2) 863 bronze bushes in the WD

BTW. In researching the pilot soaking method I came accross much support for your method, and that in fact if you push the oil through you can make a 24 hr soak happen in just a few minutes.

If your gonna soak it, though, I still say heat it up and let it and the oil cool together. It won't hurt but could help soak up more oil.

Cheers!