Puch Bobber
- Thread starter dracothered
- Start date
Not in Michigan and it wouldn't be a non working setup because no tools would be needed to set it back to human powered. It would be a pin that you just pull out and will allow you to rotate the crank arm back around to a human powered mode.
One more mounting tab needed for this side, then to time to figure out the other side.
Got the right side crash bar tacked together now...
Got the right side crash bar tacked together now...
Before removing 1.5" from each side of the handlebars.
After removing the 1.5" (each side), looks much better.
Just need to weld up this side of the crash bar and then fab the front mounting point to attach the crash bars to.
After removing the 1.5" (each side), looks much better.
Just need to weld up this side of the crash bar and then fab the front mounting point to attach the crash bars to.
The front/top mounting point for the crash bars is weld on and now all I need to do is weld the pegs on and finish welding up the one bar plus the tab for the one side.
I know your sort of making a moped modified to look a little more like a low slung motor bike. I just got shocks on the front from a fork that I swapped and made fit my motor bike. I just wondered if I found some parts I could use to make rear shocks, I'd try to mod the bike a little more. The swing arm to allow to shocks to operate and a idler pulley tensioner for my belt drive would mean a lot of changes. Maybe on a second build I might attempt something of the sort.
The way your working on it is real nice. Good to see modular crash bars that can be disassembled with the threaded bosses.
MT
The way your working on it is real nice. Good to see modular crash bars that can be disassembled with the threaded bosses.
MT
The blue capacitor is a battery eliminator that will let me run the regulator/rectifier. I will fab a cover for the opening where the electrics will go to protect it from the elements.
Here is a couple possible places for the ignition switch.
Here is a couple possible places for the ignition switch.
As you can see I have tack welded two plates in at the back of the engine mount to close in the electrics. I still need to make the cover for the back of that area to keep the water out. I will also use some body filler to fill the holes and give a finished look to the area where the boxed in area meets the tube.
Tacked one of the foot pegs onto the crash bar.
As you can see both foot pegs are welded on and I also welded on a cross bar that goes between the cylinder and the crank case. This bar helps to stiffen the crash bars so they don't flex at the bottom.
This side it is welded.
On this side I put a tab to bolt the rod to.
This side it is welded.
On this side I put a tab to bolt the rod to.
That's a really neat and practical way to mount the footpegs. Using folding footpegs is a really good idea.
Yea without the pegs this bike wouldn't be any fun to ride with the seat post cut down so much. To be honest I am almost tempted to remove the pedal on the one side and use the one left on the sprocket side as a type of a kick start.
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