HS 49cc is losing the fight for survival...

Alright so I got the engine from Phantom bikes, I will take some pics of the internals and post them up here for you to analyze.

What can I do to improve lubrication to the crankshaft and con rod? I read on here that the hole in the end cap could help, and if so, what size should the hole be? To prevent the connecting rod to break can I put a layer of JB weld on the bend spot?

Job weld? JB Weld is what I use. When I was into gopeds and people would blow out a cylinder, I saw many riders patch the area with JB weld and smooth out the inside, then run it again. Never had any problems. JB Weld is defiantly oil proof, see this thread: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=518615

Well I took apart the engine Phantom Bikes gave me and everything is in perfect condition! I cleaned everything I am going to use in purple cleaner, the rinsed it all thouroly with water, then dried it all in my oven .

One odd thing that happened is the piston. I only put one piston in the purple cleaner, and this is the comparison to how it looked before and after. I have no idea if the structural integrity of the piston is compromised, or if this is just an aesthetic change. I would hate to use the piston only to have it cause problems. The texture of the surface did not change in any way though, so i don't know what to think. This color change always happens to the outside of the jug on all engines I have cleaned and if you rub the jug with your finger some dark material would smear off onto your finger. The odd thing is that this doesn't happen with the piston. Maybe you guys can figure this out.

Here are the pics:

Alright, so I just finished putting my bike together (hopefully for the last time). I just got my new tachometer in the mail today (along with a Rubik's cube ). Here are some pics of the tach on my bike. I tested it out on my dad's bike, and it works perfectly and has many hidden settings and functions that I have yet to learn.







The instructions tell you to wrap the wire around the plug wire a few times, but this looked very tacky, so I just shoved it under the boot and it seems to be picking up the signal fine.



I have to wait for all the Permatex and Locktite to dry before I ride it, so I'll let you all know how it runs later this week.


Thanks for all your help and support, and for anyone newbs out there, take this as a lesson. DON'T OVER-REV YOUR ENGINE

Happy Riding!
-Chris N.

Double Post

Hey everyone!

So yesterday I took my bike for the first real ride in a LONG time. My dad and I went about 20 miles total (which I'm sure isn't a lot for some of you ), and on the way back I had some trouble. In the middle of the ride, my bike started to bog down and lose power. My tach said i was at 7k rpm, and with the redline being at 7.8k I assumed I was fine. Be that as it may, I leaned off the throttle a bit and the bike eventually picked up again. Then we started going up a fairly steep hill, and my bike bogged out and died. It was very hard to get it running again, but I got it going by closing the choke and running the bike for a bit, then opening it again.

At first this seemed like my bike was overheating (I also removed the metal engine heat spreaders a while ago which adds to my reasoning), but the choke thing makes it come across as a carb problem. I guess there could be more than one issue plaguing my bike however. I just wanted to see what you guys think before I tear apart my engine again

Just to add in some info, I switched oil from Royal Purple 15w30 to Lucas 10w-30 High Performance Motor Cycle Oil. According to the claims on the bottle as well as the employee at O'Riely Auto Parts, this oil is much better for my motorbike.






PS: Still haven't gotten any feedback on if its safe to run a piston that was oxidized from keeping it in purple cleaner too long

EDIT: I noticed I have been having all of these problems since I switched to a catch can rather that running the breather into the air filter. That shouldn't have caused this though, right?

Soooo.... Anyone have any advice or information that can help me out with the actual problem? The pics of the oil are not related to my question, they are just there to show the claims the oil company makes on the bottle.

It didn't run better with it on, it seemed like it unclogged it. Ill go clean out the carb and filters to see what happens.

bikechop said:

silly question but is it possible to use some fine steel wool to smoothe out the cylinder bore to speed up break in time or is the natural break in time neccesary to use the combustion heat to sorta heat treat the bore to make it wear longer? i know, im strangely technical!

Click to expand...

Break in period is 100% necessary. It is not to smooth out the cylinder as much as seating the rings and loosening everything up. My cylinder still has the crosshatch marks on the inside from when it was bored out. Do not use steel wool or anything of the sort in your cylinder period. There are special tools that are designed to re-bore cylinders, but the first break in period can only be done by using the engine the way it was meant to be used.