Got my Magic Pie 3!!

So, I have Big Apple 2.35" on the GM rims. Guy from factory said they can handle it.
GM canada has rims and spokes but they come out to about $90 without shipping.
Dave in China GM quoted me $70. So that is what i am going with. Especially since I just got a check for $1190 from the mortgage company closing out my escrow because I re-financed. Love that HARP. Thank you Obama. Anyway to stay on subject:
Anyone buying an MP kit for the first time that has no experience with disk brakes be very slow in your decisions and commitments. Why?

Well, I thought the guy mislead me saying I need 140mm disc rotors on the back. Well, the reason he said that was because they include the rear disk brake and it is made for 140mm. Since the mt bike already had disc brakes (both 160) I thought they had mislead me, spent the whole last 3 days moving disc rotors around, stripping torx bolts buying wrong size wrenches to find out I needed to put the 140mm back on with the disk brake in the kit. reason is that the disk brake on my mt bike would rub slightly on MP bolt as it went by. The Golden Motor one is a lot shallower, and has a bigger pad. Of course, less leverage on a 140mm than out on the edge of a 160mm. And further more! (remember? be really slow on your decisions) The 140mm on the MP uses T15 bolts. Not your standard T25. So back to the store for me haha. I am slowing becoming an expert about these things. To learn about bikes, just try building one or putting one together. You know, the 6 gear cassette actually works without any adjustment. On the rear big gear it will pop off if I keep going past but at least I can pedal it to the bike shop where the kid that knows his stuff about brakes and deraillers. Got a book coming from Amazon about all this.

I was going to buy the brown tires but they only come in 2.0" and they are one notch less strong as the black 2.35" ones. I know, Paul, you ride all over your island on yours and nothing goes wrong. Well, I ride through 3 different ghettos: hispanic, afro american, and red neck, and you wouldn't want to be walking barefoot on any of this bike paths. haha. Ok, now to figure out how to take the stock handles off the handlbars. Maybe I'll have to cut them. Pity.

Oh man, I did all that writing and forgot to post my question/problem/pictures.

What type of torque arm could I use for this sort of dropout? Weird shaped.

Canada GM guy has some examples of using front torque on back. I'm wondering what I could buy first time correctly.

Thanks for all the advice.

What are the parameters I use to program my controller? Will the motor work with the battery once hooked up straight from the factory or will I burn something out?
I have MP3 and 42v10ah kit. I think those are the letters. Looking to go fast and far haha. Max distance to work is 20 miles, next charging station.

I downloaded the USB connected installation software. Any tips would be appreciated.
Also, ideas and suggestions to where to pick up some sheet metal to saw me a couple torque arms. (no the store bought ones won't work).

Thanks.
Are there any "best practices" to configuring the controller? Or charging the battery?

Huston, we've made contact!

Got everything on, figured out what "turn it on and lights on throttle will light up" and they did!
So then I'm thinking "throttle", hmm, so I pushed it just a little and my little frankenstein came to life a jumped forward! haha

Ok, going to run it around outside, but I don't have rear disk caliper's adjusted correctly I'm thinking because I have to leave them loose. Favorite bike adjuster kid is off today, I'll catch him tomorrow. If I can load this thing into the back of my new salvaged title used Prius.

Also, ran into a kid at the sheet metal supply that works in the machine shop of a large farm. He is is building my torque arms ala template I made from cardboard. I offered $50 and he was happy. And. . . he is really excited about this subject. I guess his dad up the street was contracted to build an electric motorcycle. We might switch to airplane nuts if we have to grind a nut lower to fit the axle because the torque arm is going to be 3/8" steel.

Now to figure out how to get those rubber handles they give to slide on. . .
water? heat? how do I get them off? I know I'm gonna need to change a lot of stuff. Throttle and brake and gear switchers are not getting along in terms of space functionality.

Going to put the battery in an old daypack, or duct tape it to the bottom of my huge new seat. Rack was forgotten by factory but they are sending one.

It Lives! Video of first maiden voyage! 3:30min long

http://youtu.be/Oimopk7koDU

Now to figure out how to get the rubber handles on and off. Any ideas?
Also, probably do a safety check on all items and get the kid downtown to tweak all gear shifts and brakes.

Now to figure out the speedometer that I bought from Amazon.

Rack that they didn't send should come soon, it's in the states and the matching front wheel and spokes to boot.

I belong!

Battery mount is seat post version, Rack-1 from GM. Not sure this is the smartest way to go. But it's a little better than backpack straps that I am using now.

Are you saying rubbing alcohol will help the handles slide on?

ok, top results of search returned all sorts of ways and things used to remove stubborn handles. Also, I went and just soaked the handle in hot water and then it slid right on!

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Bicycle-Handlebar-Grips