Master link plate won't snap on?

If you have horizontal drop-outs or a way to maintain drive chain tension, and, if you have good chain to frame clearance, going without the tensioner is the prefered method.

There are many pages of discussion on the subject of the 'tensioner' and ways to make it work or do without it. Type in 'chain tensioner' on the 'Search' and you'll have lots to read about it.

Tom

Donnyten said:

I don't have a horizontal frame. Vertical only. But I don't see what the problem would be if I simply removed some links from the chain to give it a good fit?

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Roller chains and sprockets wear and need a way to maintain their correct tension. Often the amount of adjustment is less than removing two links. A tensioner, or another method of keeping the chain tight will be required. Just because you get the tension right initially doesn't mean it will stay that way. Wear and stretch will eventually loosen the chain. That is the function of the tensioner.

Frames with horizontal drop-outs allow you to move the rear wheel aft to tighten the chain. Another method, which I'm not a fan of, is to use shims in the engine mounts. Shimming the mounts results in a mount that doesn't fit tight and flush with the frame tube. But many have done it this way with good results.

Do some research and see what others have done. There are many ways to mount a tensioner that is superior to the kit tensioner bracket which has been a source of trouble for years. Bridging the chain and seat stay is probably the best method. Some builders fabricate the mount and there are aftermarket mounts to accomplish the same thing.

Also chain tension is important. 1/2" to 3/4" of slack is the recommended amount. More or less can cause you problems.

Tom