HT bicycle engine-compatible parts

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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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63
Central Area of Texas
Re: HT-compatible parts

chrome rings on a chrome cylinder wall..... eek...!

Cast rings on a chrome cylinder and chrome rings on a cast cylinder is the way I have always seen it, never seen chrome on chrome on any engine I ever worked on, something has got to wear in order for the rings to seat properly, either the rings must conform or the cylinder must conform to the rings, chrome on chrome both surfaces are to hard and I dont see how they could ever seat and seal properly.

Map reddd
 

mew905

New Member
Sep 24, 2012
647
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0
Moose Jaw
Re: HT-compatible parts

i have bad news. The hoca piston is a no go, iv tested on 2 cylinder and let idle the lowest it could idle for 2 mins and to be sure i didnt rev to avoid premature scoring, well i got the same results as the same cylinder, popped the head off to find major scoring. This tells me Chrome plated rings does not react well in this case. Unfortunately im 2 cylinders in the hole but confirmed this piston is not going to work :(
ouch, that sucks man. I know my cylinder is scored but not to the point of severe damage, and I regularly run mine 6k RPM +. Well, with experimentation, you win some, you lose some. I have 2 running motors and about 5 cylinders in total, 3 heads, 4 pistons... I've been through a lot learning and tweaking my motor, thats why I feel the weak point is the intake.

On a side note, I switched from my jag CDI to the stock one. No difference in power (though my motor has been refusing to go beyond 5-6k RPM with the SBP pipe on a flat road, which is where the jag's timing curve really slumps back down). Vibrations are a bit worse with the stock CDI though, and at high-ish speeds (about 30mph, just beyond the butter zone) I can hear a ringing sound. sounds like a loose screw working its way out but I'm unsure.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Re: HT-compatible parts

ouch, that sucks man. I know my cylinder is scored but not to the point of severe damage, and I regularly run mine 6k RPM +. Well, with experimentation, you win some, you lose some. I have 2 running motors and about 5 cylinders in total, 3 heads, 4 pistons... I've been through a lot learning and tweaking my motor, thats why I feel the weak point is the intake.

On a side note, I switched from my jag CDI to the stock one. No difference in power (though my motor has been refusing to go beyond 5-6k RPM with the SBP pipe on a flat road, which is where the jag's timing curve really slumps back down). Vibrations are a bit worse with the stock CDI though, and at high-ish speeds (about 30mph, just beyond the butter zone) I can hear a ringing sound. sounds like a loose screw working its way out but I'm unsure.
Although I have a custom made cdi I have got around 9000 rpms out of my stock cdi, running an NT carb at well over 40mph, I have found that the biggest limiting factor on these engines is that they need port work and free flowing exhaust, the intake is plenty big on the china girl engines if the carb is tuned well and jug is ported good and then the exhaust is very free flowing for top rpm and top speed.

On all my builds exhaust flow has always played the biggest role in the amount of power and speed I have been able to achieve.

Map
.wee.
 

rogergendron1

New Member
Sep 18, 2013
882
2
0
42
woburn ma
Re: HT-compatible parts

has nobody tried this honda hobit over boar windowed piston yet ??? the rings are smaller and well gapped ! i can easily turn 2 or 3 mm off the skirt if needed !

i have a dax motor and i am thinking the over boar piston trimmed down skirt and the titainium wrist pin with the puch needle bearing would make a monster of a china girl top end !!!

the comp hight make me uneasy though as i run a puch 70 hi hi and i only have 6cc dome volume so with this piston comp may be too high or it might hit the rim where the edge of the combustion chamber boar stops at 45mm. mabey with the 74cc head it would have the clearance proper squish clearance to work out but would have a ton of comp !!! would need to run high octaine fuel for shure !
 

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MotorBicycleRacing

Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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Those soft titanium wrist pins wear extremely then will grenade your motor.
Lots of bad advice here for new guys.
I suppose I'd compile a small list of parts compatible with our motors that arent available on any of the sites on the sides of the forum pages. These parts require little to no modifications to work.

Piston assembly

10mm Titanium wrist pin - 8.5g lighter than stock; reduces vibrations

Gilardoni silver racing wrist pin bearing - high speed, high strength bearing

46.8mm Honda Hobbit overbore piston set - **unconfirmed** Compression height of 25.5mm and overall length of 50mm, it'll need to be trimmed 2mm at the skirt but it should work in the 80mm (dax) rod 66cc engines. Sits 0.5mm higher than stock and will boost compression significantly
40mm Honda Hobbit piston set - **confirmed** - With a compression height of 26mm, using a short rod motor it will leave compression unchanged. Piston port Credit to: Jaguar

Heads and Cylinders

High performance cylinders - With a 7mm spacer, and press-fit brass bushing reamed out to 12mm, it is claimed to produce immense power. Not compatible with the Titanium wrist pin. Grubee GT5 engines only (85mm conrod) Credit to: FourEasy

Puch 70cc Hi-hi comp head - Boosts compression for more power throughout the RPM range. May need a better spark. May need to grind fins for sockets to fit. WILL need to have mounting holes enlarged and moved further away from each other.
Puch Gilardoni 74cc head - alternate head, properly sized bore. Credit to: Moto
Because of the extra thickness of the head and the fins, it's not only safe, but recommended to use the 12mm acorn nuts.


Crank

No link 6003 ball bearings - Our engines use 6202 bearings, I have seen many 50cc cranks that use 6203 bearings, which have the same I.D. as the 6003 bearings, but the 6003's will fit in our engines. This means there's a potential to use this type of bearing to fit a larger crank, However because the O.D. is the same and the I.D. is bigger, the balls are physically smaller, which means it's not as strong. 1750 Lbf for the 6202's versus 1350 for the 6003's.

No Link - Grubee GT5a Super Rat Crankshaft - Utilizing the 6003 bearings, the Super Rat crank is compatible. Small gear and magneto mount should be the same size. Crank features a 40mm stroke (2mm longer than stock), and potentially better balance. May also have a longer connecting rod.

Puch 90mm conrod - Longer-than-stock rod. Needs a press to be fit (may as well balance and true while you're at it). Gives us a 12mm wrist pin for access to more pistons.
Type D motors: 80mm conrod
Grubee motors: 85mm conrod

Intake and Exhaust

Dellorto PHBG Racing carbs - At $35 with free shipping, it's a steal. 17, 19 and 21mm sizes. Properly sized for our motors, you will need a custom intake, or intake adapter shims to fit. Credit to: Moto

YZ80 expansion pipe - **unknown mounting modifications** I know there are a couple users on this forum using this pipe, any mounting information would be helpful. Properly sized and decades of tuning experts behind it, these pipes will likely give you a huge performance boost, if you can fit it.

Electrical

12 Volt Mini-gen Max (12v generator) - alternate coil for powering lighting systems