Why start with crap? Top Quality DIY for $347
- Thread starter KCvale
- Start date
I think the 20mph speed limit for M.B's in Arizona is kinda harsh. I CAN'T RIDE 20mph. I only hit 20mph on my way to 35mph.
But other than that, Arizona has some pretty lax M.B. laws.
And by the way, Some nice bikes KC. But "shut the "F" up" was a little harsh.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
And BIG, Ya know we're gonna want a lot of pics when ya start yer build.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
2 stroke, 4 stroke, WHO FREAKING CARES.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
But other than that, Arizona has some pretty lax M.B. laws.
And by the way, Some nice bikes KC. But "shut the "F" up" was a little harsh.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
And BIG, Ya know we're gonna want a lot of pics when ya start yer build.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
2 stroke, 4 stroke, WHO FREAKING CARES.
IT'S YOUR FREAKING BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR FREAKING WAY.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
Sorry about that rant. I just don't much like being told to shut up. Don't get me wrong. Some people can take a "cheap chinese piece of crap" and make it run really well. Some people are whizzes with the little ht engines. After 3 years of riding and fixing my ht bike, I have discovered that I am not one of those people. I am a whiz at certain things, like electronics (most especially Android devices) and with my bike mechanically other than the engine. I have upgraded my frame so much its ridiculous. There isn't a single part on my bike that I haven't serviced except my Worksman front hub, and that will get serviced when I change out the axle to fit the motorcycle forks I'll be using. I'm just not one of those people that can keep an ht engine running (although my current engine, which is now dead, was purchased last April, so I got a good year and a half run out of it). But ht engines just aren't for me anymore. Everyone has their own preferences as far as what frame they like to use, what engine, and just about every single other part you could think of. So there is no need to get mad at me for having a different opinion than you.
So about a hundred dollars difference for what I would call a basic build, but I do think there really should be a couple upgrades. One I think is a must and that is the rear sprocket with an adapter. I don't agree with the idea of sandwiching the spokes to mount the rear sprocket. The others are up for debate as to what would make it truly trouble free mostly.
He tried really, really, really hard. He just couldn't help it, He's gotta be free.
Just messin with ya Big.
Now I'm the one that's gonna keep out of this one. Not saying I wont post, just not 2 stroke Vs. 4 stroke stuff. Cause I don't care what you use, as long as you enjoy yer ride.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
The whole reason this thread got started was because kc exchanged several private messages wherein he attempted to convince me not to recommend cheap walmart bikes to people. I told him that I would recommend and give advice as I saw fit, and if he didn't like that, I didn't much care. After that, this thread popped up. He really doesn't want anyone offering an opinion that differs from his own. Even in his private messages he kept saying thanks for seeing my side, like he automatically expected me to agree with him. Its unfortunate if you don't like people disagreeing with you, but this is a public forum and people are entitled to offer their own opinions even if they differ from yours. Now I'm getting ready to build a 98cc Lifan on an American made Schwinn cantilever frame, because hey, I picked up the frame for $25. But I still dont see anything wrong with Walmart bikes. There have been several members installing 99cc Predators in them, and if its good enough for a predator, it most certainly is good enough for an HT engine. I'll say it again. Any bike is only as good as its mechanic. If you're not a good mechanic to start with, you can learn, or you can build something easy. Up to you.
Like I said, I'm saying nothing more about the 2 stroke/4 stroke thing. I will mention my HUFFY, all steel, 12 guage spokes, nice welds, heavy duty bike frame. Now I'm pretty sure the Micargi is put together the same way. Well, except for the seat. But I've already done a post about the plastic Micargi seat pan.
I don't think (my opinion only) aluminum frames are a good idea for a motorized. The Huffy and Micargi frames are both steel and a good choice for, (should I say it?) a CHEAP build. I think the Micargi line are cooler looking frames, but a better frame? Who's to say one or the other is better? KC likes the Micargi, I like the Huffy, Mainly because of price. If I had an extra $50 or $100 when I was buying my bike I might have bought a Micargi, Just cause they look cool. But just so ya know. If ya buy a Micargi, ya gotta buy a good seat to go with it.
fatdaddy.
I don't think (my opinion only) aluminum frames are a good idea for a motorized. The Huffy and Micargi frames are both steel and a good choice for, (should I say it?) a CHEAP build. I think the Micargi line are cooler looking frames, but a better frame? Who's to say one or the other is better? KC likes the Micargi, I like the Huffy, Mainly because of price. If I had an extra $50 or $100 when I was buying my bike I might have bought a Micargi, Just cause they look cool. But just so ya know. If ya buy a Micargi, ya gotta buy a good seat to go with it.
fatdaddy.
I was reading the specs on the Micargi Touch, and it stated the spokes were 14g. I know my Huffy Cranbrook spokes are 12g. Since I am new to all of this, which would be the better choice for the spokes? I paid $73.31 delivered for the Cranbrook from Walmart. Did I make a mistake buying this bike? This will be my first build.
Thanks,
12 guage spokes are thicker than 14 guage. Thats another reason I picked the Huffy, Heavy duty steel wheels with 12 guage spokes.
But so ya know. Neither the Micargi OR the Huffy come with anything but coaster brakes. Ya gotta figure out better brakes. Coaster brakes SUCK at 35mph.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
Thanks for the info on the spokes. Yeah, I was thinking about the brakes as well. With this being my first attempt, I'm not sure of what can, and can't be done, and was wondering about adding either a disc or center pull brake to the front wheel. Still need to learn a lot about all of this.12 guage spokes are thicker than 14 guage. Thats another reason I picked the Huffy, Heavy duty steel wheels with 12 guage spokes.
But so ya know. Neither the Micargi OR the Huffy come with anything but coaster brakes. Ya gotta figure out better brakes. Coaster brakes SUCK at 35mph.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
Yea when it comes to spokes the smaller the number the thicker the spoke. This is based on wire gauge and with wire gauge the wire size always gets bigger with a smaller number.
It is just like a Shotgun, a 12 gauge has a bigger shell than a 14 or 20 gauge shotgun.
Of course disc or drum is best. I had calipers on mine at first. They worked, just too weak, wiggley and cheesy. I finally put a set of suspension forks with the cantilever bosses for my front brakes. The one inch threaded fork tube is not common though, most everything is 1 1/8". Just start looking on craigslist or at your LBS for a good, new or used set of 1" threaded forks with the bosses. I had some solid Schwinn forks on it for a while because they had the cantilever bosses. The suspension forks make a world of difference in the ride quality.
fatdaddy.
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I have a Fuji Cambridge mountain bike with a suspension fork that I was thinking I could switch to the Cranbrook, but from the sound of it that might not work.
Again, this is my first build, and more of an experiment for more knowledge of these motorized bicycles. I'm guessing I will enjoy it a lot and will wind up building a "custom" that will include all the preferred components as my second.
I don't know what size fork tube the Fugi is. Like I said, yer gonna need a 1" for the Cranny. As I recall the length on it is about 6 1/4". Don't give up on the better brakes though, It took me three forks,The original forks, (calipers,) The Schwinn solid, (cantilevers,) Then the cheapo Rebound forks,(suspension w/cantilevers,) to get what I wanted on my Cranbrook.
And yeah, This thing is addicting, You WILL build more than one bike. So far I've built about 6 personal bikes and 60 or 70 customer bikes. And I don't care what ANYONE says, I think you made a GREAT choice with the Cranbrook. (What color did ya get?)
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
I'll have to take some measurements on the Fuji. By the way, I believe it's actually a "Hybrid" if I remember correctly. It doesn't have the larger mountain bike tires, or the thin road bike tires.I don't know what size fork tube the Fugi is. Like I said, yer gonna need a 1" for the Cranny. As I recall the length on it is about 6 1/4". Don't give up on the better brakes though, It took me three forks,The original forks, (calipers,) The Schwinn solid, (cantilevers,) Then the cheapo Rebound forks,(suspension w/cantilevers,) to get what I wanted on my Cranbrook.
And yeah, This thing is addicting, You WILL build more than one bike. So far I've built about 6 personal bikes and 60 or 70 customer bikes. And I don't care what ANYONE says, I think you made a GREAT choice with the Cranbrook. (What color did ya get?)
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
I got the Midnight Blue Cranbrook. It was a special Walmart sale right after Thanksgiving. They are still offering the lady's version for $65.00 last time I looked, but the men's version was no longer listed.
I like the looks of that Huffy Nel Lusso bike too, and almost went for it, but the Cranbrook was almost half the price at the time. I was also interested in the Kent La Jolla, but it was out of stock at the time. I really like the looks of that bike.
Update, I just checked and the Kent La Jolla is back in stock so I ordered one. If it won't work, I'll just take it to the store for a refund.
(many posts since I've been back, missing mom drama but we found her alive last night and she'll be OK).
Just to address a a couple of points:
Spokes like 12g are certainly better than 14's but 14g holds up well, and 18's or like one bike I seen even 20g are kind of like piano wire but not as strong hehehe.
My point is you could weld on thick steel rods for spokes but it won't change the performance of the hub itself which according to the growing pile of Huffy wheels and frame carcases in my boneyard just suck.
Sure, you can just replace a Huffy back wheel before you even start with a good one, it's not like it's brain surgery, just add that to your base bike cost is all and when it comes to building I don't have to fix it before I even start ya know?
It's not the brand name that matters to me either, I've build on Phats and so many others I can't count them but they all had one thing in common, they were all in that $150+ price range and didn't fail even with some big long term power thrown at them.
In short, out of the box or already assembled from a bike store other than the cursory checks I buy what I don't have to dink with and motorize it pretty easy and once again just what I found works for best for me for the money so take it or leave it man!
Brakes I find V brakes the overall best bicycle brake not so much for it's stopping power over a disc, hub or band brake but for their cheap efficient simplicity and cost of maintenance over time.
By V I don't mean C-brakes, they are just the next step up from coaster brakes to me and anything is better than no brake for a wheel so C's work but V's if you have bosses have so much more leverage they sure work better and dirt cheap to replace the inevitable worn out pads.
Band and Disc brakes pads aren't that hard to replace but man are they expensive to do, I am still flabbergasted at the price of a pair of dime sized disc pads, like $10 each and you need a pair per wheel and they wear out in no time on an MB!
Sure, maybe nickle sized disc pads would be better, everything can be better if you have the wallet for it and buying higher end bikes is a great start so really consider that!
This is not a High End bike topic, once again it is simply what I have found to be the easiest, safest, most reliable and with all costs considered least expensive MB for me to build again and again and just shared that info here.
Bullet Proof Tires: Not one of my stock build items but something I offer and do to every bike I'll be riding.
Though expensive (~$25 a wheel) they make a world of difference, HD tube and a good liner at least on the back wheel will save you a world of grief if just do when you have wheel off to mount the drive sprocket and really, trust me on this one too ;-}
Just to address a a couple of points:
Spokes like 12g are certainly better than 14's but 14g holds up well, and 18's or like one bike I seen even 20g are kind of like piano wire but not as strong hehehe.
My point is you could weld on thick steel rods for spokes but it won't change the performance of the hub itself which according to the growing pile of Huffy wheels and frame carcases in my boneyard just suck.
Sure, you can just replace a Huffy back wheel before you even start with a good one, it's not like it's brain surgery, just add that to your base bike cost is all and when it comes to building I don't have to fix it before I even start ya know?
It's not the brand name that matters to me either, I've build on Phats and so many others I can't count them but they all had one thing in common, they were all in that $150+ price range and didn't fail even with some big long term power thrown at them.
In short, out of the box or already assembled from a bike store other than the cursory checks I buy what I don't have to dink with and motorize it pretty easy and once again just what I found works for best for me for the money so take it or leave it man!
Brakes I find V brakes the overall best bicycle brake not so much for it's stopping power over a disc, hub or band brake but for their cheap efficient simplicity and cost of maintenance over time.
By V I don't mean C-brakes, they are just the next step up from coaster brakes to me and anything is better than no brake for a wheel so C's work but V's if you have bosses have so much more leverage they sure work better and dirt cheap to replace the inevitable worn out pads.
Band and Disc brakes pads aren't that hard to replace but man are they expensive to do, I am still flabbergasted at the price of a pair of dime sized disc pads, like $10 each and you need a pair per wheel and they wear out in no time on an MB!
Sure, maybe nickle sized disc pads would be better, everything can be better if you have the wallet for it and buying higher end bikes is a great start so really consider that!
This is not a High End bike topic, once again it is simply what I have found to be the easiest, safest, most reliable and with all costs considered least expensive MB for me to build again and again and just shared that info here.
Bullet Proof Tires: Not one of my stock build items but something I offer and do to every bike I'll be riding.
Though expensive (~$25 a wheel) they make a world of difference, HD tube and a good liner at least on the back wheel will save you a world of grief if just do when you have wheel off to mount the drive sprocket and really, trust me on this one too ;-}
This simple sentence sums everything up just fine. Everything else is a matter of preference for anyone.
Thanks for the tip on the tires. Hadn't thought about that, but it makes a lot of sense.
