Maintanence
- Thread starter MrLarkins
- Start date
http://motorbicycling.com/f39/inner-clutch-spring-tightening-8739.html#post84473
In that post the 2nd pic down is where you put the grease at.
In that post the 2nd pic down is where you put the grease at.
That bit was their for a reason the post was for tightening the inner clutch spring also their is no air getting their from the the 2 stroke oil it's a sealed system. 2stroke oil getting into the clutch system then you have a main seal broken.
read the post it's about tightening the main clutch spring, grease goes in the same hole because it's an access to the main housing. Take that part out and you will see how much grease they put on it (not that much) Norman did a compete tear down on one of his posts. And showed that their is not that much grease in their and it's loud put some in their and it quiets down a lot. sorry i have been drinking but i still know what im saying.
read the post it's about tightening the main clutch spring, grease goes in the same hole because it's an access to the main housing. Take that part out and you will see how much grease they put on it (not that much) Norman did a compete tear down on one of his posts. And showed that their is not that much grease in their and it's loud put some in their and it quiets down a lot. sorry i have been drinking but i still know what im saying.
Mr Larkins
Grease the short shaft on the clutch and that sorry ball that jumps out and rolls to who knows where. the clutch arm linkage. You can also grease the gears use just a little on them so the grease doesn't get on the clutch pads. You can grease the hole in the picture with the tool in it but don't get carried away as the grease can also get to the clutch from there the bearing have a metal shield and they will leak grease out of them when they get hot. I've found that the short shaft and that ball will start squealing then they get dry the gears will get louder then they get dry the ball bearing when they get dry will go straight to 5ell if they go dry so use some good judgment when you break out the grease gun.
Norman
Grease the short shaft on the clutch and that sorry ball that jumps out and rolls to who knows where. the clutch arm linkage. You can also grease the gears use just a little on them so the grease doesn't get on the clutch pads. You can grease the hole in the picture with the tool in it but don't get carried away as the grease can also get to the clutch from there the bearing have a metal shield and they will leak grease out of them when they get hot. I've found that the short shaft and that ball will start squealing then they get dry the gears will get louder then they get dry the ball bearing when they get dry will go straight to 5ell if they go dry so use some good judgment when you break out the grease gun.
Norman
Actually; pumping grease into the hole that the clutch cable stanchion threads into, (The pic with the tool), does absolutely nothing to lube the parts that need it!
Centrifugal force will sling the grease outward, and you will have nothing but a well greased inner case.
Remove the clutch actuator and the pin...don't worry about removing the 8mm ball...if it falls out fine, but it isn't necessary to remove it.
Using a grease gun, slowly, pump 4 shots into the hole that the clutch pin goes into. Hold the grease gun firmly against the countershaft so that the grease goes in. This will lube the sliding parts that make up the countershaft. From inside out centrifugal force will sling the grease where it is needed.
As Norman said, grease the actuator cam...and put a little on the primary gearset.
Jim
Centrifugal force will sling the grease outward, and you will have nothing but a well greased inner case.
Remove the clutch actuator and the pin...don't worry about removing the 8mm ball...if it falls out fine, but it isn't necessary to remove it.
Using a grease gun, slowly, pump 4 shots into the hole that the clutch pin goes into. Hold the grease gun firmly against the countershaft so that the grease goes in. This will lube the sliding parts that make up the countershaft. From inside out centrifugal force will sling the grease where it is needed.
As Norman said, grease the actuator cam...and put a little on the primary gearset.
Jim
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off topic question:
Anyone know the thread size for that hole off hand?? I'm running a clutch pull mod and just want to plug it up.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t16/reg454/CIMG1487.jpg
Anyone know the thread size for that hole off hand?? I'm running a clutch pull mod and just want to plug it up.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t16/reg454/CIMG1487.jpg
Goat,
Have a look at the pic below...The case is very thin between the crankcase and the counter shaft.
If the gasket moved during assembly, or the cases were not torqued together tightly, premix will get into the countershaft area.
Jim
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Thanks for that pict Jim! That says alot I never did soap check [bubbles] on the China I took off . Theres just too much stuff I am doing right now! I can assume about now from that pict just what happened. But I won't know till I check it officially.
I just picked up some 2-stroke synthetic oil from Lowes. The kind with the squeeze bottle that will fill a 2.8 oz thing for easy 40:1 mixing in a 1 gal container. I found it interesting that the bottle said "Good for all mixing ratios, 16:1, 20:1, 40:1, and 50:1. Just add 2.8oz to 1gallon of unleaded gasoline." Does this mean that it's really good for all mixing ratios at the same time? for for 40:1 add 2.8 to 1 gal and for all other ratios do the math your self?
use more or less oil for different ratios. oil so many Ounces per gallon of gasoline to get the ratio you want.
Norman
Norman
