My huffy cruiser build [jmrl] [first]
- Thread starter jMrL
- Start date
Re: problem... reaching higher rpms
Maybe with all the adjustments you've been doing on your carb you accidentally put the float tang in upside down or bent the tangs. Take the bike out for a spin and shut off the gas at the tank petcock and ride it until the gas runs out and take notice of how it performs as you're starving it for gas.
Maybe with all the adjustments you've been doing on your carb you accidentally put the float tang in upside down or bent the tangs. Take the bike out for a spin and shut off the gas at the tank petcock and ride it until the gas runs out and take notice of how it performs as you're starving it for gas.
Re: problem... reaching higher rpms
Your threads have been merged.
We discourage members from starting new threads with the same problem being discussed in another one. That is not a good way to "get more attention".
Keep your questions about a specific problem in one thread, please.
Tom
Your threads have been merged.
We discourage members from starting new threads with the same problem being discussed in another one. That is not a good way to "get more attention".
Keep your questions about a specific problem in one thread, please.
Tom
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I fixed it for now.. I believe(haha) I just have the same problem as before, WOT 4 strokes. so i have to use 3/4 and let off and get back on it to reach my full speed. which is back at 22-24
What i did was adjust my needle to the furthest down meaning my needle would be rasied. ( toward richest ? ) But i was thinking the leaner my gas the further up the needle the slide needs to go ? Im running a nice tanish brownish color on my plug.
I was running fine 3 days ago with it at the 2nd to the top notch. Just weird how it changed up on me like that ?
ALSO does the sleve have a curvature on the bottom ? it isnt flat at the bottle it has a concave on one side of the bottom ( where it hits the bottom wall/casing of the carb. Ill get a pic soon if you guys dont understand what im speaking about.
When i first installed my kit i didnt realize it was a stud inside the barrel so i inserted it in with a lil pressure and it doesnt have one nemore. This is aggravating when i adjust my idler screw but other than that i believe everything is ok. I will eventually replace the carb for another to fix this issue.
AND A mod update! I added caliper brakes to this badboi today also. I finally found a set that would fit around the fenders. PICS SOON
Sorry if im being annoying guys. Im just learning and trying to get advice at the same time. this is my first motor experience, but im pretty mechanically inclined.
What i did was adjust my needle to the furthest down meaning my needle would be rasied. ( toward richest ? ) But i was thinking the leaner my gas the further up the needle the slide needs to go ? Im running a nice tanish brownish color on my plug.
I was running fine 3 days ago with it at the 2nd to the top notch. Just weird how it changed up on me like that ?
ALSO does the sleve have a curvature on the bottom ? it isnt flat at the bottle it has a concave on one side of the bottom ( where it hits the bottom wall/casing of the carb. Ill get a pic soon if you guys dont understand what im speaking about.
When i first installed my kit i didnt realize it was a stud inside the barrel so i inserted it in with a lil pressure and it doesnt have one nemore. This is aggravating when i adjust my idler screw but other than that i believe everything is ok. I will eventually replace the carb for another to fix this issue.
AND A mod update! I added caliper brakes to this badboi today also. I finally found a set that would fit around the fenders. PICS SOON
Sorry if im being annoying guys. Im just learning and trying to get advice at the same time. this is my first motor experience, but im pretty mechanically inclined.
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Without that slide aligning pin/stud in your carb you are going to get wacky air/fuel changes. As the slide rotates around some air will leak in through the top of the carb. I think you need a new carb.
"ALSO does the sleve have a curvature on the bottom ? it isnt flat at the bottle it has a concave on one side of the bottom ( where it hits the bottom wall/casing of the carb. Ill get a pic soon if you guys dont understand what im speaking about. "
By any chance are you referring to the float here? The white plastic donut looking thing?
I had an NT carburetor, still have it in fact, that the float did not slide up and down on the brass tube. I could force it but it is supposed to slide easily, rising and dropping as the fuel level in the bowl changed. The float controls the fuel entering the carb. If it doesn't 'float' and lift the needle valve your engine will run very rich, or very lean if the float can't drop to allow fuel to enter correctly.
Tom
By any chance are you referring to the float here? The white plastic donut looking thing?
I had an NT carburetor, still have it in fact, that the float did not slide up and down on the brass tube. I could force it but it is supposed to slide easily, rising and dropping as the fuel level in the bowl changed. The float controls the fuel entering the carb. If it doesn't 'float' and lift the needle valve your engine will run very rich, or very lean if the float can't drop to allow fuel to enter correctly.
Tom
no sir. Im talking about the brown sleeve that controls the throttle. At the bottom ( where the pin sticks out of ) it has a curve on it . This would be better explained with a picture. I will get one, so you guys can understand more.
Chaz i will be getting one soon. Im thinking of a sha or clone. But i dont want to spend that extra cash if i dont have too
Chaz i will be getting one soon. Im thinking of a sha or clone. But i dont want to spend that extra cash if i dont have too
The slide is not flat, you will see a small curvature in it. If it were flat the engine couldn't draw air at idle. How many miles have you run it? When you get a few hundred miles on it speed should improve.
I don't like to spend money unnecessarily either, that's for sure. You could fix it by installing your own "slide locator pin" but at the cost of a new carb it's hardly worth it.
Anyway, my point is that I don't see how you will ever be able to dial in your air/fuel mix if the slide is rotating around in your carb. That open slot in the slide which allows the cable installation can rotate around and sometimes be facing the intake port and sometimes not, or sometimes be facing the exhaust port or sometimes not. This creates an unpredictable and constantly changing air/fuel mix and the reason you're getting such varied performance.
But, I ain't no expert. See if others will confirm my theory.
Anyway, my point is that I don't see how you will ever be able to dial in your air/fuel mix if the slide is rotating around in your carb. That open slot in the slide which allows the cable installation can rotate around and sometimes be facing the intake port and sometimes not, or sometimes be facing the exhaust port or sometimes not. This creates an unpredictable and constantly changing air/fuel mix and the reason you're getting such varied performance.
But, I ain't no expert. See if others will confirm my theory.
I just saw about the alignment pin, replacing the carb will be the best fix, I keep a spare or two. A lot can be found on eBay for $10-$12 with free shipping.
Just my opinion but I would get the bike running good with the basic nt first, then if later you want to try a different carb you'll have some info to judge the upgrade on.
Just to give you a little base line I had my 48cc out Monday afternoon and hit 30+ on flat ground, I cruise at 25 for a nice ride. Below is a sample of what's available as a replacement carb.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...ine-Motorized-Bicycle-Bike-Carb-/161643755202
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...ine-Motorized-Bicycle-Bike-Carb-/161643755202
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I went to the shop and looked at a scrap nt I have, the alignment pin slides through the carb body behind the fuel inlet. You may be able to remove the barrel and fuel line and push it back in the carb, it should be flush with the carb body on the outside.
I have put the new carb on and ran it for 2 days now. It seems to be running a little better. Atleast i know their wont be something stopping me from dialing it in to its best 
I am gonna try to jet it tommo if its not raining. My problem is that The only time i can open it up all the way is if i sit at 3/4 throttle for a good straight and if im lucky i can WOT and it'll pick up GOOD SPEED. I want this pickup without having to ride a straight to pick up speed it seems i can be getting it quicker. ( seems i can be reaching higher rpms quicker, than just SLOWWWWLLLLY reaching them at 3/4 throttle.) WHen i go ride down a hill and open the throttle up I can continue riding at full throttle and reach GREATER speeds while continuously riding at these speeds(without it slowing down) until i break. SO i know the engine can go faster, its just me reaching those rpms from the throttle and not gravity getting me their.
This being my first bike im not sure. Im posting this in hopes to someone giving me some detail on it.
I will test it out and see what happens.
I have ordered a SBP expansion chamber also. Just a little mod for the little beauty of mine
Next upgrade will be a 40 or 36tooth sprocket with hub.
Hope everyone had a great easter!
I am gonna try to jet it tommo if its not raining. My problem is that The only time i can open it up all the way is if i sit at 3/4 throttle for a good straight and if im lucky i can WOT and it'll pick up GOOD SPEED. I want this pickup without having to ride a straight to pick up speed it seems i can be getting it quicker. ( seems i can be reaching higher rpms quicker, than just SLOWWWWLLLLY reaching them at 3/4 throttle.) WHen i go ride down a hill and open the throttle up I can continue riding at full throttle and reach GREATER speeds while continuously riding at these speeds(without it slowing down) until i break. SO i know the engine can go faster, its just me reaching those rpms from the throttle and not gravity getting me their.
This being my first bike im not sure. Im posting this in hopes to someone giving me some detail on it.
I will test it out and see what happens.
I have ordered a SBP expansion chamber also. Just a little mod for the little beauty of mine
Next upgrade will be a 40 or 36tooth sprocket with hub.
Hope everyone had a great easter!
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Good to hear you're up and running. The performance will improve as she breaks in and the rings seat themselves. It's hard to tell about your acceleration but you should be able to hit your top speed on flat ground within a "city block" and eventually less than that. This is just a very rough guide.
Thanks chaz! Im going to be testing the jetting as soon as it stops raining! The new exhaust comes in tommo
I am going to be ordering a sprocket adapter, and I am leaning toward the gas bike parts. It is reasonably priced at 45$ My question is has anyone had any problems with it. Come pared to manicmechanics or sick bike parts? their prices are 55$ and 75$ I dont want to get the cheaper and regret it later, Nor do i want to spend the extra 20$ for the same thing.
Also im looking for a good place to buy a 48cc cylinder and extra piston.
I am going to be ordering a sprocket adapter, and I am leaning toward the gas bike parts. It is reasonably priced at 45$ My question is has anyone had any problems with it. Come pared to manicmechanics or sick bike parts? their prices are 55$ and 75$ I dont want to get the cheaper and regret it later, Nor do i want to spend the extra 20$ for the same thing.
Also im looking for a good place to buy a 48cc cylinder and extra piston.
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