My huffy cruiser build [jmrl] [first]

GoldenMotor.com

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
That stuff would only work to fill small gaps or it will just blow out the sides.
on a head or exhaust. It could be used in conjunction maybe with a metal gasket on heads but I personally wouldn't attempt to use it in any high pressure situations, but that's me.
The original exhaust gaskets have metal reinforcement to prevent blowout. Better to remove the muffler and straighten out the curved exhaust mount flange, by bending with love taps and then sanding on glass. You can search the forum for many threads on doing this. The exhaust gaskets could be doubled up by adding cutting an additional high temp thinner paper gasket sandwiched to the factory rubber one to help fill any leaking areas is still a problem.
Would a cereal box still be ok in this situation ?
 

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
Like ziptie said, best to straighten out the exhaust flange. Make those love taps really loving and gentle because the welding on these things are questionable. The high temp silicone only works for minuscule imperfections in that situation.

Sounds like you're on the right track with the porting and trimming the piston skirt. There's some good threads here on the process.

You will get better performance as the engine breaks in and the rings seat themselves.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
Today i bought bpermatex threadlocker blue, and finished completing my set of M6 Socket Cap bolts. So I will only have nuts on my head. This will help me so i dont have to worry about bolts falling out. ( hasnt happened yet, i keep a close eye on them all ) I just dont want it to happeN :D

I will be taking off the exhaust and giving it some loving in a bit. Ill keep you tuned guys!
 

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
Would a cereal box still be ok in this situation ?
A cereal box cardboard would work for an exhaust gasket for a very short time, as real Gasket material like Fel-pro is made of compressed of Non-Asbestos fibers and wont blowout as it gets damp from oil or fuel. Regular paper cardboard would get soggy and turn to mush pretty fast. Congrats on the porting job.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
A cereal box cardboard would work for an exhaust gasket for a very short time, as real Gasket material like Fel-pro is made of compressed of Non-Asbestos fibers and wont blowout as it gets damp from oil or fuel. Regular paper cardboard would get soggy and turn to mush pretty fast. Congrats on the porting job.
I haven't ported yet. Im waiting on my tungsten carbide tips for my dremel. Im doing alot of researching and reading the jennings 2 stroke tuner guide. Its a great read if anyone hasn't read it already. Just search on google :D

I will look into some of the fel-pro material. Appreciate it!

I'm trying to find a good sturdy phone mount for the bike. Any suggestions? Ive seen some that use adhesive to attach a mount to your phone than u connect that to the Holder on your bike. I really dont want to use this method. Im sorta skeptical on some mounts I would like some people with experience on these speak up :D
.shft.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
I've tried straighting the exhaust to no prevail. Still a leak. So I'm still using rescue tape.

What's a good sealant or gasket maker that can be removed. I've seen permatrex red gasket maker. But the red scared me. Thought it wld be permanent. I've also seen high temp copper silicone .

A lil idea on which to purchase until I get a new exhaust. I want to wait till me break in period is over. BTW brand-new gasket is on it with no success I'm also going to order some profel its in my amazon cart now

:-||
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
jMrL,

I've been watching/reading your thread and you're getting good advice and following it. As for your warped exhaust flange; you mentioned that you used the glass/sandpaper method on your cylinder head. May I suggest you try the same on that flange?

Clean it well and then 'paint' it with a Magic Marker or machinist dye. Run the flange over your sandpaper, on glass, or any known flat surface and check it after a swipe or two. You'll quickly see the high and low spots that need to be eliminated to give you a good gasket sealing surface. If you have access to a belt sander, they work great for 'lapping' exhaust flanges, or a lot of elbow grease if you do it by hand.

I prefer to use gasket material intended for exhaust/high temperature and no sealer. Torque the fasteners to about 60 inch pounds. After a couple of heat/cool cycles check the torque and tighten if needed. Re-checking the torque on heat effected fasteners is always a good idea. The expansion and contraction can loosen them. But, don't overtighten them!

Good luck and keep your progress reports coming. We'll be here to help.

Tom
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
Thanks. I used my dremel to take off the excess areas on the muffler. I did just what u mentioned. I thought sense i done the head, why not see with the exhaust. Thats how i knew where to sand.

Ill just keep at it. hopfully i will get it soon :"D

ZipTie Im thinking surely, this wouldn't hold up on my handlebars. The gas tank is sorta in the way, unless i want to go toward my seat more, Than id just be looking down instead of up at the road :p Ive done come to the conclusion that im going to buy a universal snap lock and manufacture my own. And use it with my junction box for my lighting that im going to be adding
 
Last edited:

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
I done some modding today..

I jetted my carb through 72-76 It steadly got better at full throttle. I am now 4stroking only at full throttle and not bogging down. from 72-74 the switch allowed me to go completely full throttle but it would bog down and jump. Like a jerk in the motor. So i decided to go more. Now i can open the throttle without it bogging down, but it causes a 4stroke and i loose power., but i can lower my throttle a tad and it gets alot better and picks up rpms. It got to late to experiment more, but maybe a 79 will stop this ?

Also i want ot know if im running to lean? I used a pre mix pouch of opti-2 I believe its 1.8oz to a gallon. My plug looked like a tanish, greyish color.

Im believe i need to up my mixture just a tad. Let me know what you guys think



The picture doesnt really give it justice, its a lil greyer than that. See the post above this one.

Also i just ordered and recieved some Fel-Pro 3075 I can't find if its safe under high temp anyplace. Im guessing it is sense its a rubber compo-sent

Btw- I reached 25. first time... I started at 22 and slowly done some tinkering and now im at 25. :D I happy with that but I WANT MORE!!! hehehe

Im also looking for some silicone tubing that can withstand the heat of an exhaust ? any recommendations ?
 
Last edited:

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
That colour looks pretty good to me but wait for an expert opinion. Can you move your needle clip down a notch or two?

Performance will improve as the rings seat during break in. It sounds like you're on the right track.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
I added a little oil and got a really good result. I took a pic and will add it to this post soon. Yesterday it was really cold and raining, I cranked it up and started riding to work and it was awful. I couldnt get any rpms it was 4 stroking and just bad. The night before I had jetted the jet. And it was runnning GREAT but it was atleast 20 degree diff in temp. TOnight i went back down to around a 72 with no change. Changed the spark plug also :( I cant even get to WOT. I have to cruise at about 1/4 or 1/2 throttle

Im waiting for it to get warmer and see if it just doesnt run well in the cold.
 

Chaz

Well-Known Member
Jun 3, 2012
1,004
72
48
Vancouver, British Columbia
I'm a bit confused on your timeline of changes. If you are adjusting your fuel/oil ratio and your air/fuel ratio at the same time you will get mixed results. I would say it's better to settle on a fuel/oil ratio that is safe and then adjust your carb one step at a time to see what the results are.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
I added the oil to the gas this evening, I didnt see that it would change any drastic due to it being more still on the 40:1 side compared to the 50:1 that i was running or the 32:1 I was running last week.

The problems i am ahving have been going on for two days. I thought it was something possibly stuck in my carb so i cleaned it and adjusted the jet again, thinking it was two much of a change. Honestly it seems like its getting to much gas. ( just my thoughts on what ive done to it and the lil experince that i have )

But i get where your coming from. thats good advice. thanks!
 
Last edited:

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
Sudden change in performance could also be simply loose connections from the engine to the CDi causing weak or intermittent spark causing performance loss. Its easy to check and rule that out. The cheap bullet connections can get loose pretty easy. I've even seen the kill switch wires shorting out a bit. But like Chaz said try not to change two things at once, wait a day or two between any changes. Keep us updated/
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
Sudden change in performance could also be simply loose connections from the engine to the CDi causing weak or intermittent spark causing performance loss. Its easy to check and rule that out. The cheap bullet connections can get loose pretty easy. I've even seen the kill switch wires shorting out a bit. But like Chaz said try not to change two things at once, wait a day or two between any changes. Keep us updated/
Ok, Ill check that tonight. I just bought some heat shrink wrap. Im going to use cone nuts and wrap them. Ill try without my killswitch engaged if the rewiring doesnt fix. I can just hold my clutch and turn my idle screw all the way out to let it die.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
I redone all my wiring to no prevail. Tried with the kill switch off also.

Do you guys think it could be my CDI or PLug boot? The only thing i changed prior to it happening ( and it was running fine when i cut it off ) was the spark plug, and changed the jet.
I am now back to my original jet, the old spark plug that was in it. original pin position also..

Just a idea of what its doing. It seems like its not wanting to get any higher RPMS its just cruising without picking up. I can ride at 1/2 throttle but its 4 stroking the entire time. It stops 4stroking when i let off the gas and get back on it, untill it levels out. I have checked my exhaust for clogs, blown gaskets etc.. I have checked the torque on my head also. I have cleaned my carb completely. when i took off the exhaust i noticed a lil more oily substance. Not sure if thats anything ? but it was more than normal. Im thinking its just where its not winding out. ?

Thanks in advance.
 

jMrL

New Member
Feb 25, 2016
68
0
0
Norfolk
problem... reaching higher rpms

I have a build post that i have explained everything in detail. I just wanted to get more peoples attention and maybe get this solved quicker :D It seems people dont travel the forum, they just stick in one sub forum.

I recently changed my jet on my NT carb, After adjusting it and thinking it was running better at a 76#. I done a plug chop and I rolled it in the garage.

Everything was doing good it was reaching full rpms as normal. and i was even reaching top speeds for me.

Now the next morning i get on it and head off to work. As i go down the road, I reach the point that my engine should be warmed up, and i give it a lil more throttle and it doesnt nothing / at the least it bogs down some. So i just fiddle with it the entire way to work and it does the same thing.

I get home and change the jets to 72# and put in the orgnial plug. The next day I am having the same problem on the way and back from work.

Today i go to my orginial jet that came on the engine. and make sure all my wires are correct with no shortage. I even try running it without my kill switch. I cleaned my carb, made sure i dont have a cloged exhaust. I put everything back on and take it for a ride. Nothing!! Still the same.

[from original post]
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=634380#post634380

Just a idea of what its doing. It seems like its not wanting to get any higher RPMS its just cruising without picking up. I can ride at 1/2 throttle but its 4 stroking the entire time. It stops 4stroking when i let off the gas and get back on it, untill it levels out. I have checked my exhaust for clogs, blown gaskets etc.. I have checked the torque on my head also. I have cleaned my carb completely. when i took off the exhaust i noticed a lil more oily substance. Not sure if thats anything ? but it was more than normal. Im thinking its just where its not winding out. ?

the only thing im thinking it could be is the cdi or the plug boot? Im not sure if these could cause this sorta problem.

Thanks in advance. Please refer to my original post with all the details about plug color, oil/fuel ratio etc..
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
2,575
113
65
Newnan,Georgia
Make sure the jet is tight, I had one back out and cause the same problem. Like what was said before do only one thing at a time, doing several can get real confusing when trying to decide what works and what doesn't. There is no one jet size that fits all, even a different carb on the same bike may need a different jet.