Dave's Hot Rod Velocar
- Thread starter DaveM
- Start date
For proper wheel alignment and a good steering setup, use 15° camber on the kingpin for the axle and ackermans law for the steering linkage.
Hi to everyone following my build,
Before I start, I have no or very little experience working with timber or plywood, you may need to wish me luck!
I just got a price for a sheet of plywood 2.0 meters long x 1.2 meters ( 6 feet 6 3/4 inches x 3 foot 11 1/4 inches).
The price was $89.95, bugger! I say that because I also have some utility bills I need to pay as well, plus I need some varnish, screws, dowels etc.
Also the plywood from my local hardware store looks to be of poor quality or seconds so I am going to go to another store. I really want the surfaces that can be seen to be very smooth.
So I have decided to do a run to the scrap metal merchant to generate some cash, I have enough scrap built up that should pay for the plywood.
I am also going to go to a bed supplier or a ducting supplier to get some large sheets of cardboard to mock up the body.
Here is a picture I drew to get an idea of the proportions of the body, to begin with I had the front the same length as the opening for the cockpit and also the rear that covers part of the motor too high.
So now at this early stage, the bonnet will be 1 meter long ( 3 feet 3 3/4 inches ), the cockpit 600mm long (24 inches approx. ), the tail section 400mm long ( 16 inches approx. ).
The tail section will be 100mm ( 4 inches ) higher than the bonnet, I am trying to have the fill cap for the fuel tank poking up through the rear body panel.
Of course these dimensions may change once I get the cardboard and mock it up.
Cheers,
Dave.
Before I start, I have no or very little experience working with timber or plywood, you may need to wish me luck!
I just got a price for a sheet of plywood 2.0 meters long x 1.2 meters ( 6 feet 6 3/4 inches x 3 foot 11 1/4 inches).
The price was $89.95, bugger! I say that because I also have some utility bills I need to pay as well, plus I need some varnish, screws, dowels etc.
Also the plywood from my local hardware store looks to be of poor quality or seconds so I am going to go to another store. I really want the surfaces that can be seen to be very smooth.
So I have decided to do a run to the scrap metal merchant to generate some cash, I have enough scrap built up that should pay for the plywood.
I am also going to go to a bed supplier or a ducting supplier to get some large sheets of cardboard to mock up the body.
Here is a picture I drew to get an idea of the proportions of the body, to begin with I had the front the same length as the opening for the cockpit and also the rear that covers part of the motor too high.
So now at this early stage, the bonnet will be 1 meter long ( 3 feet 3 3/4 inches ), the cockpit 600mm long (24 inches approx. ), the tail section 400mm long ( 16 inches approx. ).
The tail section will be 100mm ( 4 inches ) higher than the bonnet, I am trying to have the fill cap for the fuel tank poking up through the rear body panel.
Of course these dimensions may change once I get the cardboard and mock it up.
Cheers,
Dave.
Attachments
Dave,
Here is an idea for your body frame. I would make bulk heads like your plans show and then cut 1"x1" notches in it, bottom, middle and top to put the 1"x1" wood strips to hold the bulk heads in place and give the plywood covering a something to be glued to. You will need at least one strip in the middle on top of the bulkhead as well.
The glue 1/4" luan plywood to the bulk head edges and the 1"x1" stringers with a good grade of constuction adhesive. An air powered stapler or good heavy duty stapler will help to hold the plywood tight until the glue dries. You can pull the staples out before you add the covering or drive them in and putty over them.
Light and above all reasonably priced.
The covering? That depends on just what you want it to look like. With the luan plywood you can add just about anything. I added the mahogany strips when I built the sidecar. Glued and nailed on. With Ludwig's excellent suggestion of used printers plates I'd cut them to shape and then glue them on with contact cement if it will stand up to your summers heat or maybe use construction adhesive again.
I'm thinking about making another sidecar body built with this method but covered with the cloth that painters protect floors with. I purchased one that is 9'x12' for $15.
I will either roll white wood glue on the wood and bed the canvas in it as I go or roll exterior ureathane varnish down first and then bed the canvas into it but either way you will need a hard roller like they roll out wood veneer or plastic counter tops with to make sure it is bedded down tight without air bubbles.
Another way would be to use a heavy coat of latex paint and put the canvas over that. How every you do it, it will need to be painted to fill the canvas pores and make it water proof. Some spar varnish over the paint and it will last for a very long time with the odd freshen up coat.
Now, if you will excuse me, I have to go out into the shop and check the plywood supply.
As I said I feel the need to build a sidecar body coming on.
Steve.
Here is an idea for your body frame. I would make bulk heads like your plans show and then cut 1"x1" notches in it, bottom, middle and top to put the 1"x1" wood strips to hold the bulk heads in place and give the plywood covering a something to be glued to. You will need at least one strip in the middle on top of the bulkhead as well.
The glue 1/4" luan plywood to the bulk head edges and the 1"x1" stringers with a good grade of constuction adhesive. An air powered stapler or good heavy duty stapler will help to hold the plywood tight until the glue dries. You can pull the staples out before you add the covering or drive them in and putty over them.
Light and above all reasonably priced.
The covering? That depends on just what you want it to look like. With the luan plywood you can add just about anything. I added the mahogany strips when I built the sidecar. Glued and nailed on. With Ludwig's excellent suggestion of used printers plates I'd cut them to shape and then glue them on with contact cement if it will stand up to your summers heat or maybe use construction adhesive again.
I'm thinking about making another sidecar body built with this method but covered with the cloth that painters protect floors with. I purchased one that is 9'x12' for $15.
I will either roll white wood glue on the wood and bed the canvas in it as I go or roll exterior ureathane varnish down first and then bed the canvas into it but either way you will need a hard roller like they roll out wood veneer or plastic counter tops with to make sure it is bedded down tight without air bubbles.
Another way would be to use a heavy coat of latex paint and put the canvas over that. How every you do it, it will need to be painted to fill the canvas pores and make it water proof. Some spar varnish over the paint and it will last for a very long time with the odd freshen up coat.
Now, if you will excuse me, I have to go out into the shop and check the plywood supply.
As I said I feel the need to build a sidecar body coming on.
Steve.
Dave,
Here is an idea of what I was talking about.
He shows the frame work of the car body about 1/2 way down.
Steve.
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...24GgCw&usg=AFQjCNFMx5r32abmWkMS-gFE6dAox2yO1g
Here is an idea of what I was talking about.
He shows the frame work of the car body about 1/2 way down.
Steve.
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...24GgCw&usg=AFQjCNFMx5r32abmWkMS-gFE6dAox2yO1g
Here is more of what I was talking about.
Steve
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/...seph-ihnat-part-1-poppens-special-kids-racer/
Steve
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/...seph-ihnat-part-1-poppens-special-kids-racer/
Hi to everyone following my build,
Also thank you Steve for the two links, I have already had a quick read and plan to have a good read later.
Unfortunately I now feel like a complete amateur.
Anyway after the first mock up the body is too wide, I plan now to take 100mm or 4 inches out of the width, and the rear section I might take out 200mm or 8 inches. I have already taken 100mm or 4 inches out of the height.
The door panels will taper in towards the rear section and I still need to work on the shape of the door panel opening.
Here is a picture of the cardboard mock up.
Cheers,
Dave.
Also thank you Steve for the two links, I have already had a quick read and plan to have a good read later.
Unfortunately I now feel like a complete amateur.
Anyway after the first mock up the body is too wide, I plan now to take 100mm or 4 inches out of the width, and the rear section I might take out 200mm or 8 inches. I have already taken 100mm or 4 inches out of the height.
The door panels will taper in towards the rear section and I still need to work on the shape of the door panel opening.
Here is a picture of the cardboard mock up.
Cheers,
Dave.
Attachments
Dave,
Once you get started it will all fall into place. The velo has nice lines to it and you will be able to make the body without a lot of problems I'm sure.
Steve.
Once you get started it will all fall into place. The velo has nice lines to it and you will be able to make the body without a lot of problems I'm sure.
Steve.
Dave,
You might want to join this forum. They build light, Honda motor powered, race cars that look like 1920's and 30's era. When you join, click on the "photos" on the side bar and you will see what they have done to build the bodies.
These folks are mostly first time builders as well.
Steve.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/cyclekart/
You might want to join this forum. They build light, Honda motor powered, race cars that look like 1920's and 30's era. When you join, click on the "photos" on the side bar and you will see what they have done to build the bodies.
These folks are mostly first time builders as well.
Steve.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/cyclekart/
Steve,
Thank you for your support.
I have already made some changes it is now not as wide, also the body still looks too tall so I may take another 50mm or 2 inches out of the height.
I now have the door section tapering in which looks a lot better, I would also like more of the engine showing so I will shorten the tail section as well.
Cheers,
Dave.
Thank you for your support.
I have already made some changes it is now not as wide, also the body still looks too tall so I may take another 50mm or 2 inches out of the height.
I now have the door section tapering in which looks a lot better, I would also like more of the engine showing so I will shorten the tail section as well.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Moving right along Dave and looking cool!
I think we are all amateurs and students of varying degrees.
LOL, it is the "experts" that worry me.
I think we are all amateurs and students of varying degrees.
LOL, it is the "experts" that worry me.
Forgot to post this and might be after the fact but there is a thing called "wiggle wood"
https://www.google.com/search?q=wig...AW_v4CIDg&sqi=2&ved=0CD8QsAQ&biw=1440&bih=809
I did the barge work and some set stuff for the movie "I know what you did last summer" and saw it for the first time. Kinda amazing but I don't know what it costs. (and always wondered how a wiggle tree could stand up)
https://www.google.com/search?q=wig...AW_v4CIDg&sqi=2&ved=0CD8QsAQ&biw=1440&bih=809
I did the barge work and some set stuff for the movie "I know what you did last summer" and saw it for the first time. Kinda amazing but I don't know what it costs. (and always wondered how a wiggle tree could stand up)
Dan,
It's the old joke about the fact that amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic.
Wiggle wood is what I used to cover the seat backs and inner seat liner and the underside of the foot rest on the tricar seats. Absolutely great to work with as you know.
The wood I used would need a good sanding and a few coats of filler primer to be made smooth. Ideal for putting a finishing layer over it such as thin metal or a cloth material.
If your really cheeky maybe wood veneer.
It comes in vertical and horizontal grain so you can bend it the length or width of the sheet. What I see most often is North American Poplar though there is Italian Poplar wiggle wood that has a finer grain.
It comes in 1/8", 1/4", and 3/8" if I remember correctly but I see 1/4" mostly. It layers up pretty good with decent glue to whatever thickness you want.
It's made with two layers of veneer with a canvas like cloth in the middle. If you want to make a body with tight curves it's the shnitz to use.
Steve.
It's the old joke about the fact that amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic.
Wiggle wood is what I used to cover the seat backs and inner seat liner and the underside of the foot rest on the tricar seats. Absolutely great to work with as you know.
The wood I used would need a good sanding and a few coats of filler primer to be made smooth. Ideal for putting a finishing layer over it such as thin metal or a cloth material.
If your really cheeky maybe wood veneer.
It comes in vertical and horizontal grain so you can bend it the length or width of the sheet. What I see most often is North American Poplar though there is Italian Poplar wiggle wood that has a finer grain.
It comes in 1/8", 1/4", and 3/8" if I remember correctly but I see 1/4" mostly. It layers up pretty good with decent glue to whatever thickness you want.
It's made with two layers of veneer with a canvas like cloth in the middle. If you want to make a body with tight curves it's the shnitz to use.
Steve.
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I meant to add that 1/4" wiggle wood should sell for under $30 a sheet. I pay just over $28 here in Bring Cash sometimes refered to as B.C. but not often.
Budweiser is on sale at our local liquor store. It's $49.50 for 24.
Remember Bring Cash.
Steve.
Budweiser is on sale at our local liquor store. It's $49.50 for 24.
Remember Bring Cash.Steve.
"It's the old joke about the fact that amateurs built the Ark and Professionals built the Titanic."
LOL Steve, I hadn't heard that one.
"Budweiser is on sale at our local liquor store. It's $49.50 for 24."
How the **** are you folks up north so happy!? I'd be forming a rebellion!
LOL Steve, I hadn't heard that one.
"Budweiser is on sale at our local liquor store. It's $49.50 for 24."
How the **** are you folks up north so happy!? I'd be forming a rebellion!
Dan,
It's because we heard about that magical land, Moosylvania. It gives us something to look forward to.
Steve.
It's because we heard about that magical land, Moosylvania. It gives us something to look forward to.
Steve.
Hey dave... just a thought, but if you ever could find one, putting one of those trike conversion kits on the back of the velo would be pretty interesting! It would be like a micro-cycle kart.
Just thinking outloud...
cheers, ccd
Just thinking outloud...
cheers, ccd
