my henderson tribute
- Thread starter charliechaindrive.
- Start date
I've never tried shaving down the cylinder head to get higher compression, but I hear some engines that can be done. I suppose as long as the piston does not hit cylinder head or the spark plug and stuff.
MT
MT
On a four stroke side valve, like this, when you shave the head what you need to be concerned about is that the valves still have room to come to their full lift. There are a lot of guys on here who mod these motors that would be a lot more helpful than me.
Ccd sent you a box this am ,so couple days. Was wondering myself about the valves ? Seems like goldy covered it.
Thanks everybody, and if I do try to bump up my compression any, I'll do.the old playdough clearance test for the valves on it before final assembly. But I don't think I'll mess with it's compression ratio, for now atleast.
And thanks a lot shopdogs! I'll be watching the mailbox like a hawk these next few days.
also, real soon I will be starting a new job in my dad's machine shop, making bird feeder poles. So, what money I will have left after buying one of those new fatbikes from walmart, I will use to better my progress on the henderson. Or to buy the block of aluminum I need for the cylinder.
Ccd
And thanks a lot shopdogs! I'll be watching the mailbox like a hawk these next few days.
also, real soon I will be starting a new job in my dad's machine shop, making bird feeder poles. So, what money I will have left after buying one of those new fatbikes from walmart, I will use to better my progress on the henderson. Or to buy the block of aluminum I need for the cylinder.
Ccd
Got the package today shopdogs!!
School starts back up tomorrow. So, I'll work on getting it hooked up.
Cheers
School starts back up tomorrow. So, I'll work on getting it hooked up.
Cheers
Glad it got there in one piece ! Hope she works for you . The filter is replaceable ,from fram ,i never found one . Maybe you will have better luck up there? My only concern with that filter was vibration lossening it up ,guess youll just have to check it during preflight?...
Bullmtl; unfortunately, it's going to half to be a single cylinder. The small briggs vanguard v twin *does* fit into the frame (one was given to the schools ag department a few years back) but I'd probably half to use a torque converter with the big twin. And I actually have struck minor gold, I found the front half of a torque converter in a bucket of old snowmobile parts. But it's for a flat sided belt (be shaped like this L/ } and all my spare mini bike rear pulleys are for a regular v belt. If I can find an appropriate second half to the flat sided setup, I might think of using that.
Shopdogs, my dad actually bought me the briggs and stratton filter & petcock. But, we do need a new filter identical to this one to use on our big minneapolis moline G-1000 tractor. So it'll still be helpful.
And due to this stupid weather, I haven't made any progress on my tank. We haven't had a full day of school for five days I think. Snow days in april are a new thing to me.
But I was able to start up my governor-less tecumseh, it looks much better without any shrouds than a briggs would. my carb needs a bit of a cleaning, as it only runs smooth on full choke. I've got some pictures this time, I'll just need to go get the img links from photobucket. I'll just edit them in in a minuet or two
Ccd
Shopdogs, my dad actually bought me the briggs and stratton filter & petcock. But, we do need a new filter identical to this one to use on our big minneapolis moline G-1000 tractor. So it'll still be helpful.
And due to this stupid weather, I haven't made any progress on my tank. We haven't had a full day of school for five days I think. Snow days in april are a new thing to me.
But I was able to start up my governor-less tecumseh, it looks much better without any shrouds than a briggs would. my carb needs a bit of a cleaning, as it only runs smooth on full choke. I've got some pictures this time, I'll just need to go get the img links from photobucket. I'll just edit them in in a minuet or two
Ccd
Built myself a seat today
Used a 50's mens seat pan and covering, 30's womans spring hardware, and a few other pieces
Tadaa
if it holds together, I'm thinking of asking a girl in the sewing class at school to cover it in some distressed brown leather (which might actually be horse hide from what my dad says)
Here's my plan for the new bottom half of the frame;
Old frame
New frame!
The new bottom piece will be a "U“ shaped length of metal, with a new motor mount plate welded on top with a mount for my jackshaft bearings. I also might eliminate the american sized bottom bracket, and weld in a new bottom bracket piece that a set of bearings could press directly into to use my ultra wide crankset on here so I can still actually call this thing a motorized bicycle.
Here's a key to all the numbered lines in the drawings
1. Spark plug clearance. With the way the motor sits now, I have to use a very short plug so it does not hit the frame. I'd like to use one of my 40's era plugs
2. This... Whole general area. I don't like the way this place looks, with the upward sloping tube that was suppose to be level with the ground originally, it just needs to go
GOOD THINGS
3. Good plug clearance. Pretty self explanatory here
4. frame bottom. This will make mounting many important things, vastly simpler. From the motor mounts, to foot pegs.
5.decent jackshaft mount area!. Previously, I was going to run the jackshaft through the bottom bracket. But I could not get good drive chain alignment with that configuration. So, I'll ixnay that plan and try a bit more conventional set up, possibly I might even buy the jackshaft kit from AGK.
That's all for now,
Ccd
Used a 50's mens seat pan and covering, 30's womans spring hardware, and a few other pieces
Tadaa
if it holds together, I'm thinking of asking a girl in the sewing class at school to cover it in some distressed brown leather (which might actually be horse hide from what my dad says)
Here's my plan for the new bottom half of the frame;
Old frame
New frame!
The new bottom piece will be a "U“ shaped length of metal, with a new motor mount plate welded on top with a mount for my jackshaft bearings. I also might eliminate the american sized bottom bracket, and weld in a new bottom bracket piece that a set of bearings could press directly into to use my ultra wide crankset on here so I can still actually call this thing a motorized bicycle.
Here's a key to all the numbered lines in the drawings
1. Spark plug clearance. With the way the motor sits now, I have to use a very short plug so it does not hit the frame. I'd like to use one of my 40's era plugs
2. This... Whole general area. I don't like the way this place looks, with the upward sloping tube that was suppose to be level with the ground originally, it just needs to go
GOOD THINGS
3. Good plug clearance. Pretty self explanatory here
4. frame bottom. This will make mounting many important things, vastly simpler. From the motor mounts, to foot pegs.
5.decent jackshaft mount area!. Previously, I was going to run the jackshaft through the bottom bracket. But I could not get good drive chain alignment with that configuration. So, I'll ixnay that plan and try a bit more conventional set up, possibly I might even buy the jackshaft kit from AGK.
That's all for now,
Ccd
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ask and ye shall receive! school has ended, and summer has begun. inbetween mowing lawns and fishing, ive mad a bit of progress, and ill let the pic's do the talking for me.
tadaaa
motor
the frame
how everything sits back here
home made rope cup
still slowly plucking away at it
ccd
tadaaa
motor
the frame
how everything sits back here
home made rope cup
still slowly plucking away at it
ccd
Ahhhh! That's better! I was starting to think this one was dead in the water, glad you're still plonking away at it. It's looking good.
