Throttle cable and repairs

[Xiodinc]

My throttle cable broke, and i need a new one.Wondering where to buy the cheapest one. Also, a cheap dual brake system, And some foldable baskets. Also, some cheap disc brakes.


Instead of getting a new cable, the only thing broken is the little end cap thing on the end of the wire, so if there is a way to getting another one, and attaching it.

-Thanks.

 

[bairdco]

here's a link to a link to Norman's Video How-to about making a new end with solder. http://motorbicycling.com/f39/norm-shortening-throttle-cable-9010.html

i've done this myself, and it works great.

 

[Xiodinc]

Ok so i saw the video, and i dont know what he did with the phone cable. Could you explain what he did with the phone cable to the end of the wire?

 

[bairdco]

yeah, basically, you could take a brake cable and cut it to whatever length you want and solder a new nip on there for the throttle.

dunno about the brake lever, i don't stop that way.

here's some baskets: Amazon.com: wald bicycle baskets: Sports & Outdoors

 

[bairdco]

fuel filters, on a bike, are great for filtering fuel.

sorry, couldn't resist.

fuel filters are good because most of the kit tanks have chinese rust in them, which has been proven in empirical testing to be much worse than american rust, and is very good at getting stuck in your carb's jets, and making your bike no go anymore.

there's a crappy one inside the tank, stuck to the petcock, but i like to remove that one and put in a good in-line filter. mine's a Russell, shiny chrome one i've had for years in my car parts box, but pretty much any filter that fits on your line will work.

 

[2door]

fuel filters, on a bike, are great for filtering fuel.

sorry, couldn't resist.

fuel filters are good because most of the kit tanks have chinese rust in them, which has been proven in empirical testing to be much worse than american rust, and is very good at getting stuck in your carb's jets, and making your bike no go anymore.

there's a crappy one inside the tank, stuck to the petcock, but i like to remove that one and put in a good in-line filter. mine's a Russell, shiny chrome one i've had for years in my car parts box, but pretty much any filter that fits on your line will work.

Always check a new tank for rust. If there is ANY sign of rust pour a couple of cups of course sand in the tank, shake the heck out of it for several minutes then rinse with hot water and dry with compressed air. If the rust is real bad you can use small gravel instead of sand or as some have done, lead shot. The chrome plated tanks can be even worse than the painted ones so check them BEFORE, installing the petcock and filter.
Tom

 

[Xiodinc]

Ok so i saw the video, and i dont know what he did with the phone cable. Could you explain what he did with the phone cable to the end of the wire?

I made some edits to this, but this is what i wanted you to answer as well. *MAIN ISSUE*

 

[bairdco]

he wrapped it around real tight so the solder would have something else to stick to so it'd make a little ball.

i used a strand off the cut part of my cable.

it's just giving the solder a better hold on the cable. phone wire is solid, not stranded, so it'd give a good base.

it's kinda hard to get a drop of solder to stay without anything to catch it.

 

[Xiodinc]

so strip a phone cord. and take the wire, wrap around, then solder. Also, if i were to cut the wire shorter, what would i use as the end metal part, and which side of the wire should i cut?

 

[bairdco]

the soldered end IS the metal part. you're basically making a new little ball end out of the wire and the solder.

in your first post you said the little end cap broke off. you meant the little ball part on the end of the cable that fits into the carb, the slide, with the needle and all that, right?

the solder and the wire becomes your new end when it's finished up, filed or grinded a little to fit.

one more thing. make sure you do all this with the cable inside the cable housing. if you don't, you won't get the cable back through it.

 

[Xiodinc]

alright, i got that, thanks. When i shorten the cable housing and cable. On the housing at the end there is a metal piece. Do i need that?

 

[bairdco]

that metal piece helps to keep the housing from getting beat up, and is supposed to provide a nice snug fit for the cable to sit in the adjuster. works great on bicycles, not so much on our motors.

i'd leave it on. the cheap cables used are three parts. there's an inner plastic sleeve, the rolled metal part, then the rubber outer housing.

sometime the cables will slip apart from the compression caused by squeezing your levers, and the inner sleeve will get stuffed into the adjuster.

the metal end stops that from happening.

hope this made sense.

 

[Xiodinc]

one more thing. What tool do you guys use to cut the brake/throttle cable? i seem to get through the housing, but not the coiled metal with wire cutters. please help.

 

[bairdco]

i use some Klien wire cutters, but i've used cheap ones before.

the coiled inner housing is always a problem, it crushes when you cut it.

i poke a screwdriver in there to round the hole out again, and then either hit it with a grinder, or nip off the sharp piece with my cutters.

basically anything you have to do to make it smooth again. you don't want your cable dragging across it. it'll be harder to pull if it's pinched, and it could start fraying and break after awhile.

 

[Xiodinc]

going to OSH afterschool to get some heavy duty wire cutters. mine can't even cut through the metal coilings!

 

[2door]

A Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel works well at cutting the cable housing or sheath. I like to use a good sharp pair of side cutters on the cable then clean up the housing with the Dremel. Another trick is to 'tin' the end of the cable with solder before cutting. It generally keeps the cable from fraying too bad if your cutters aren't real sharp. Tinning, or coating the end of the cable with a thin layer of lead solder is easy. Clean the cable of all oil, grease, etc. Apply a little flux, I like Nokorode, and let the tip of your soldering iron heat the cable then touch it with the solder. Let it 'wick' into the cable strands but not so that it increases the diameter too much. Tap the still hot cable on a hard surface and the excess solder will come off leaving a nice shiny cable surface that won't come apart when you cut it. You'll only need to 'tin about the last inch or so...don't tin the whole cable.
Tom

 

[Xiodinc]

how long should the wire be from the housing? 60mm?

 

[Evan]

Think this would be strong enough for a clutch cable repair?

 

[bairdco]

what's a clutch cable repair? if you broke yours, go to any bike shop and buy a new brake cable. i got one for $1.50 at mine.

 

[2door]

Bairdco is right. You'll spend more in materials and electric bills than a new cable will cost. Anyway, the kit supplied clutch cables are typically too short to give you room for repairs. If it broke at the engine end, and if you have enough cable just pull it snug and readjust the position of the cable stop. If it broke at the handlebar end, go buy a new cable.
Tom