Hey all,
So after my last engine failure and subsequent thread about deceptive practices of certain vendors, I decided to start another build thread. I am not quite a n00b as I was on my last engine so I will skip a little bit more of the basic stuff.
For this second build, I decided to name my bike, the Kamakazi. Since I already had a previous engine, this is what I am working with: Gary Fisher Capitola bike, Generic HT motor WITH needle bearings (magneto stamped 5/2011), NGK B6HS spark plug, magnacore wire, 36t rear sprocket, Worksman 415 HD chain.
Additional upgrades and addons that I have: I bought a wireless speedometer that didn't work when riding (what a surprise)gave that away and got a wired one and that works great. I still have a BGF Speed carb and I want to eventually get installed. I also bought a SBP pipe on sale during my downtime.
The possibly new motor I have looks, well like a china girl. I took her apart and checked everything out. The woodruff keys were a little beefier than my last engine. but everything looked well put together. I replaced the base gasket with a better homemade one, and greased all the bearings up with red grease. There were no glaring faults in its assembly. I had to do some work to get it mounted though. My old engine needed a mounting bracket with U bolts to get it one. This engine had a wider mount in the front. But it still was not wide enough for my bikes frame, so I had to take the Dremel to it. Once it was one I had it fired up and running within a few minutes.
I had a hard time with the clutch, though I kept on tightening the flower nut, and pedaled a bit before letting out on the clutch, the pads didn't last very long, so I ended up putting the clutch on from my first engine, re tightened and everything seems to be good.
This weekend for ****s and giggles I hooked up the SBP pipe, ran it high and strapped it down to the frame with a hose clamp and took it for a ride. DAMN, it really DOES make a difference. It really had a lot of get up and go. Of course stock setup with it is for low RPM power but it is still nice. I am having a hard time though trying to get it go into a lower mounting configuration. I have no weilding gear so I am just working with what they send. I am still reading and rereading the better posts on here on what others have done. But I have not seen one question asked "Can you cut the header pipe down without any major drawbacks?" And by "header" I mean the black pipe going into the chamber. Please correct me if I am wrong. If you look at the photo you can see I really can not ride with the pipe this low.
EDIT: Found my answer on the pipe. Problem with my bike is the pedal crack width. They are so close to the frame that there is no room for running the pipe between the crank and the rear tire. Have to look into that.
So after my last engine failure and subsequent thread about deceptive practices of certain vendors, I decided to start another build thread. I am not quite a n00b as I was on my last engine so I will skip a little bit more of the basic stuff.
For this second build, I decided to name my bike, the Kamakazi. Since I already had a previous engine, this is what I am working with: Gary Fisher Capitola bike, Generic HT motor WITH needle bearings (magneto stamped 5/2011), NGK B6HS spark plug, magnacore wire, 36t rear sprocket, Worksman 415 HD chain.
Additional upgrades and addons that I have: I bought a wireless speedometer that didn't work when riding (what a surprise)gave that away and got a wired one and that works great. I still have a BGF Speed carb and I want to eventually get installed. I also bought a SBP pipe on sale during my downtime.
The possibly new motor I have looks, well like a china girl. I took her apart and checked everything out. The woodruff keys were a little beefier than my last engine. but everything looked well put together. I replaced the base gasket with a better homemade one, and greased all the bearings up with red grease. There were no glaring faults in its assembly. I had to do some work to get it mounted though. My old engine needed a mounting bracket with U bolts to get it one. This engine had a wider mount in the front. But it still was not wide enough for my bikes frame, so I had to take the Dremel to it. Once it was one I had it fired up and running within a few minutes.
I had a hard time with the clutch, though I kept on tightening the flower nut, and pedaled a bit before letting out on the clutch, the pads didn't last very long, so I ended up putting the clutch on from my first engine, re tightened and everything seems to be good.
This weekend for ****s and giggles I hooked up the SBP pipe, ran it high and strapped it down to the frame with a hose clamp and took it for a ride. DAMN, it really DOES make a difference. It really had a lot of get up and go. Of course stock setup with it is for low RPM power but it is still nice. I am having a hard time though trying to get it go into a lower mounting configuration. I have no weilding gear so I am just working with what they send. I am still reading and rereading the better posts on here on what others have done. But I have not seen one question asked "Can you cut the header pipe down without any major drawbacks?" And by "header" I mean the black pipe going into the chamber. Please correct me if I am wrong. If you look at the photo you can see I really can not ride with the pipe this low.
EDIT: Found my answer on the pipe. Problem with my bike is the pedal crack width. They are so close to the frame that there is no room for running the pipe between the crank and the rear tire. Have to look into that.
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