Show us your DIY belt drive
- Thread starter Otero
- Start date
Oops guess I shudda looked
7/8” Serpentine belt from a Mazda and 24” bicycle rim for the driven pulley. Lever activated idler pulley for a slip crutch...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gayDFNXWIw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gayDFNXWIw
Me: possession of HS 49cc. Gear reduction box included. Bike kit @ vpower.hk. $320. I think even though I have a 54 tooth sprocket, I want to have more climbing ability under weight load. I want to fabricate a further gear reduction with offsetting the engine on its mounts. I do not think a 3.5 to 1 reduction box is enough. It will go on mountain bike. I just unwrapping. ?
Not much action on this thread yet. Sooo...Okay, I'll show you
mine if you show me yours.
Hmmm......I guess I won't. It's not that I'm shy, but the site
won't let me use the same pics twice. Sooo... I guess you'll
have to go to 'BGF Hongdu/solex'. It's there near the last page
somewhere.
mine if you show me yours.
Hmmm......I guess I won't. It's not that I'm shy, but the site
won't let me use the same pics twice. Sooo... I guess you'll
have to go to 'BGF Hongdu/solex'. It's there near the last page
somewhere.
Copy and paste the link, make it easy for everyone.
Like this link to DIY Manual Variable Ratio Belt Drive.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=44397
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It's the bug that gets the photo ops here. With memory of an elephant and bronze of an artist, how can we compare?
I put a down on 20 inch trike. Here are the facts known to me: 20 inch tire = 61 inches 54 tooth sprocket = 26 gearbox 3.22 to 1 11 tooth off gearbox = 3.7 inches. I have $900 in this upcoming project and a welder. I want 17 mph @ 4100 rpm, or about that. Feedback.
You should really start a new thread because nobody will notice your question here.
Wish I had $900 for a project; I'd go nuts. Good luck. Actually,
depending on the belt I use, I should have 17mph at 4100 as
well. I'm just finishing up the refined version of my belt drive.
all that's left is to mount the engine.(pics to follow). It's the
same basic configuration, but far more precise, new channel,
new bearings, bolts, and hand tooled shaft. I'll have 2 ratios at
my disposal, depending on the pulley spacer used. I have 2 belts
positioned so that I can switch in five minutes without removing
the wheel. The theoretical high end speed is terrifying, but I
shant be getting anywhere near that.(49 mph)
depending on the belt I use, I should have 17mph at 4100 as
well. I'm just finishing up the refined version of my belt drive.
all that's left is to mount the engine.(pics to follow). It's the
same basic configuration, but far more precise, new channel,
new bearings, bolts, and hand tooled shaft. I'll have 2 ratios at
my disposal, depending on the pulley spacer used. I have 2 belts
positioned so that I can switch in five minutes without removing
the wheel. The theoretical high end speed is terrifying, but I
shant be getting anywhere near that.(49 mph)
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If it is that bike with 4 pics shown at:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=27150&page=84
BGF Hongdu/Solex thread on Page 84 Post 834
I see it has all kinds of provisions for trail and or camping.
I like it. It's Electric Motor Driven I think?
The back idler you have I see that you can tension easy enough to switch the pulley on the motor output shaft for a different ratio / speed.
As much as I have carried so far on my Briggs 3hp 4stroke bike is a tripod so that I could set my camera on to take movies while I pass by trail riding. Picture shown though is more recent and that is not the tripod but an air pump so just in case I use a patch kit I carry, I can fix a flat.
Eventually I am to make the motor bike alternate use as an art vehicle for parade use to look like a California Sheephead Fish. Currently licensed only for off road (there are no pedals). I use 2 belts and 1 short chain. Chain I take out master link and put in other chain length to accept different sprockets between two jack shaft and have ratio change. Trail riding at 21:1 ratio or later for much higher ratio so I can keep centrifugal clutch locked up and keeping cool during Fish Parading at 3.5mph.
MT
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=16 Bottom Page Picture on the trails riding
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=5 Top page rendition what art fish cover to look similar to
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Actually the bike shown is powered by a Tanaka PF4000
40cc 2.2 hp 2 stroke inside the gray engine cover. I've
since replaced that old friction channel with that of a
Staton kit. The setup is the same but far more precise
with a snugger shaft, new bearings, and a more accurate
mounting. The one pictured was actually a test bed as I
had intended to use the current arrangement all along
provided it worked in the proto which was a bit sloppy.
I will post pics of the new setup here soon.
I like the use of kitchenware in your pic. The improvised
cover is cool. I don't know about the pop can on the
brake lever though; looks like a slashed knuckle about to
happen.
What I'm trying to achieve with this bike is a reliable,
long distance touring bike suited to all terrain & weather
conditions. The tanaka can be hard to start in the
cold, but performs amazingly in the wet. I think it would
almost run under water.
40cc 2.2 hp 2 stroke inside the gray engine cover. I've
since replaced that old friction channel with that of a
Staton kit. The setup is the same but far more precise
with a snugger shaft, new bearings, and a more accurate
mounting. The one pictured was actually a test bed as I
had intended to use the current arrangement all along
provided it worked in the proto which was a bit sloppy.
I will post pics of the new setup here soon.
I like the use of kitchenware in your pic. The improvised
cover is cool. I don't know about the pop can on the
brake lever though; looks like a slashed knuckle about to
happen.
What I'm trying to achieve with this bike is a reliable,
long distance touring bike suited to all terrain & weather
conditions. The tanaka can be hard to start in the
cold, but performs amazingly in the wet. I think it would
almost run under water.
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I'm not sure if I made it clear enough, but the thin aluminum can metal strip in picture was just to show how it went together. It is for a shim to have the press button kill switch tighten enough not to slip on the handle bars.
I guess mini-bike handle bars are larger diameter? The switch clamp strap and black electrical tape covered over all of it. There are a pair of wires so I need not use frame as a ground. Also in line is a toggle switch for another on/off engine switch.
Thin metal welding on my MIG does not do well, so it looks ugly, but the cover can hold all my weight standing on it. For kicks I took the JC Penny Foremost bicycle chain guard, cut up, and welded in two places on the left side cover. Yea pots and bowls on the left cover and a BBQ cut up to cover the right side carb and stuff.
Pictures when you get them posted, Yea!
MT
I guess mini-bike handle bars are larger diameter? The switch clamp strap and black electrical tape covered over all of it. There are a pair of wires so I need not use frame as a ground. Also in line is a toggle switch for another on/off engine switch.
Thin metal welding on my MIG does not do well, so it looks ugly, but the cover can hold all my weight standing on it. For kicks I took the JC Penny Foremost bicycle chain guard, cut up, and welded in two places on the left side cover. Yea pots and bowls on the left cover and a BBQ cut up to cover the right side carb and stuff.
Pictures when you get them posted, Yea!
MT
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